Chris Walker

and Lapham had reason to believe that Michael was making moves of his own, possibly without the knowledge or approval of his old man. While the feds had yet to approach the Lichardis directly, they'd started looking into a couple of other players operating in the family's orbit, some younger guys in the wine business.

and Lapham had reason to believe that Michael was making moves of his own, possibly without the knowledge or approval of his old man. While the feds had yet to approach the Lichardis directly, they'd started looking into a couple of other players operating in the family's orbit, some younger guys in the wine business.

And by all appearances, they also had every reason to make sure that Jack never found out what they were up to. While Jack Licciardi had built a brokerage empire from his command post in Stockton, 20 miles away in the town of Escalon, population 3,200 in the 1980s, two men half his age, Nick and Frank Bavaro, had built a farming empire in a little less than a decade.

And by all appearances, they also had every reason to make sure that Jack never found out what they were up to. While Jack Licciardi had built a brokerage empire from his command post in Stockton, 20 miles away in the town of Escalon, population 3,200 in the 1980s, two men half his age, Nick and Frank Bavaro, had built a farming empire in a little less than a decade.

The older of the brothers, Nick Bavaro, possessed a cunning business mind. By the time he was a teenager, he was negotiating deals for almonds, peaches, and grapes like a Chicago commodities trader. And given how small California's wine industry was in the 70s and 80s, it was only a matter of time before the wunderkind crossed paths with Jack.

The older of the brothers, Nick Bavaro, possessed a cunning business mind. By the time he was a teenager, he was negotiating deals for almonds, peaches, and grapes like a Chicago commodities trader. And given how small California's wine industry was in the 70s and 80s, it was only a matter of time before the wunderkind crossed paths with Jack.

And when they did, Nick impressed Jack, to put it lightly. In him, Jack saw the same type of youthful ambition that had propelled him to his own success. He eventually hired Nick to manage the Licciardi's family ranch, a 10-acre Grenache vineyard called LB Ranch. And it was through this arrangement that Nick dealt regularly with Jack's legs, his son Michael.

And when they did, Nick impressed Jack, to put it lightly. In him, Jack saw the same type of youthful ambition that had propelled him to his own success. He eventually hired Nick to manage the Licciardi's family ranch, a 10-acre Grenache vineyard called LB Ranch. And it was through this arrangement that Nick dealt regularly with Jack's legs, his son Michael.

The two young men proved to be a dangerous combination, putting the fate of California's entire wine industry into question. To this day, no one will admit being the one to come up with the idea. But here's the government's version of how it all started in August of 1986, based on evidence that Lapham and his team eventually acquired.

The two young men proved to be a dangerous combination, putting the fate of California's entire wine industry into question. To this day, no one will admit being the one to come up with the idea. But here's the government's version of how it all started in August of 1986, based on evidence that Lapham and his team eventually acquired.

So for Michael to ask Nick to use empty field tags, that was highly unusual, not to mention illegal.

So for Michael to ask Nick to use empty field tags, that was highly unusual, not to mention illegal.

All kinds of red grapes, which at a glance look similar to Zinfandel.

All kinds of red grapes, which at a glance look similar to Zinfandel.

But even if Nick realized that was illegal, he kept quiet about it. With Zinfandel riding near $500 a ton at the time, and Val di Pena and Carignan down around $100, he and Michael stood to make $400 in profit for every ton of mislabeled grapes they delivered. By the end of 1987, Nick delivered 1,200 tons of mislabeled grapes to the tune of almost half a million dollars in illicit profits.

But even if Nick realized that was illegal, he kept quiet about it. With Zinfandel riding near $500 a ton at the time, and Val di Pena and Carignan down around $100, he and Michael stood to make $400 in profit for every ton of mislabeled grapes they delivered. By the end of 1987, Nick delivered 1,200 tons of mislabeled grapes to the tune of almost half a million dollars in illicit profits.

He was too good to give up, and they had reason to believe they wouldn't be caught. Because remember, Michael had carte blanche access to one of the nation's largest wineries.

He was too good to give up, and they had reason to believe they wouldn't be caught. Because remember, Michael had carte blanche access to one of the nation's largest wineries.

This arrangement was the result of a years-long friendship his father had developed with Tony and Delicato, Delicato Vineyard's owner.

This arrangement was the result of a years-long friendship his father had developed with Tony and Delicato, Delicato Vineyard's owner.