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Fashion Deep Dive

Worth: Inventing Haute Couture – The Unseen Story

12 Jun 2025

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In this episode, we step into the opulent world of Charles Frederick Worth, the visionary widely recognized as the "father of haute couture" and the inventor of Parisian haute couture itself. This podcast offers an exclusive look at the groundbreaking "Worth: Inventing Haute Couture" exhibition at the Petit Palais in Paris, an event "waited for for 100 years" and the first retrospective of its kind dedicated to the House of Worth.Discover how a penniless Englishman built a fashion empire, establishing revolutionary practices still relevant in luxury fashion today. Worth transformed fashion from a mere craft into an industry by creating without waiting for commissions, signing his works like an artist, and organizing production by seasons. His workshop at 7 rue de la Paix became the epicenter of a dynasty that spanned four generations.Uncover the unseen story behind the exhibition itself, a colossal four-year undertaking that involved "months of filming behind the scenes" [66, 73, Previous Conversation]. We'll take you behind the velvet ropes with the "golden hands" of conservators and registrars, revealing the extraordinary challenges of preserving garments, some originally created to be worn for only a few days and not necessarily intended for long-term preservation. Hear about the meticulous processes, from choosing the right mannequins for each delicate piece to the painstaking "petal-by-petal" repair of fragile floral details, which for some pieces took "two people a full 30 days". You'll also learn how priceless items are carefully prepared and transported in "silk paper sarcophagi" to prevent new creases.This exhibition, a monumental collaboration between the Petit Palais and the Palais Galliera, features over 400 pieces – garments, sketches, paintings, and accessories – telling a vast and captivating story. We'll tease insights into:The fashion of iconic figures like Empress Sissi and the legendary Countess Greffulhe, whose "mythical Byzantine gown" famously eclipsed her daughter at a wedding and inspired Marcel Proust.Unique garments like a Tea Gown that belonged to a prominent 19th-century American socialite, and the famous "robe aux lys" from 1896, with its hidden American repairs revealed by X-rays.A fascinating cape made from a reused traditional Uzbek coat (Bukhara caftan) gifted by Tsar Nicholas II, transformed by Worth into a fashion garment – a piece that raises questions about cultural dialogue and appropriation.Explore how Worth shaped fashion silhouettes, from the widespread crinolines to the dramatic bustles, and delve into the lasting legacy of his family, including the crucial role of his wife, Marie Vernet, his muse and first living model.Don't just read about it. Tune in to this podcast to get a unique perspective on Charles Frederick Worth's genius, the incredible effort behind this historic exhibition, and why Paris remains the capital of creation. The "Worth: Inventing Haute Couture" exhibition runs from May 7 to September 7, 2025, at the Petit Palais. This is an opportunity "that will never be made again".

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