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The Daily

The Sunday Read: ‘Some Raw Truths About Raw Milk’

Sun, 9 Feb 2025

Description

Thousands of years ago, after domesticating cows and other ruminants, humans did something remarkable: They began to consume the milk from these animals.But living closely with animals and drinking their milk also presents risks, chief among them the increased likelihood that infections will jump from animals to people. Some of humanity’s nastiest scourges, including smallpox and measles, probably originated in domesticated animals. In the 19th century, health authorities began pushing for milk to be treated by heating it; this simple practice of pasteurizing milk would come to be considered one of the great public-health triumphs of the modern era.Today, however, a small but growing number of Americans prefer to drink their milk raw. And Robert F. Kennedy Jr., President Trump’s choice to lead the Department of Health and Human Services, now stands at the vanguard of this movement. Unlock full access to New York Times podcasts and explore everything from politics to pop culture. Subscribe today at nytimes.com/podcasts or on Apple Podcasts and Spotify.

Audio
Transcription

Chapter 1: What are the risks of drinking raw milk?

5.906 - 30.268 Moises Velasquez-Manoff

Hi, my name is Moises Velasquez-Manoff, and I'm a contributor to the New York Times Magazine. I'm a science writer, and I mostly cover health, medicine, and the environment. This week's Sunday Read is based on a recent magazine article of mine about raw milk. The first and most important takeaway of my piece is that raw milk can literally kill you.

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31.328 - 49.276 Moises Velasquez-Manoff

and that people should make sure they understand the risks before drinking it. And even if it doesn't kill you, it can make you extremely sick. We're talking about ending up in the ICU potentially with kidney failure because of a terrible E. coli strain, just as one example.

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50.797 - 72.472 Moises Velasquez-Manoff

I grew up in New Mexico where some people were drinking raw milk because it fit into their back-to-the-land philosophy or because they liked the way it tasted. But nowadays, raw milk is just as much a beverage for libertarian types, homeschoolers, people who are suspicious of the government telling them what to do, and health fanatics looking for quote-unquote superfoods.

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73.832 - 97.741 Moises Velasquez-Manoff

On social media, you may have caught some of the magical claims about raw milk, like, I started drinking it and my eczema went away, or it cured my inflammatory problems. And those are some of the moderate claims. There's no science behind raw milk curing anything. And yet, actually, there have been studies that suggest there's a value in terms of prevention.

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99.823 - 115.815 Moises Velasquez-Manoff

I once researched and wrote about something called the farm effect. Scientists have observed that rural kids in Europe and the US who grew up on farms have a relatively low risk of allergies and asthma. They think that raw milk contributes to this protective effect.

117.202 - 139.696 Moises Velasquez-Manoff

And they think this because people who don't live on farms, but who might get raw milk from a farm down the road, also have a lower risk of allergies and asthma. So how are we supposed to reconcile the possible health benefits of raw milk with the fact that it might also kill us? That's an important question.

140.296 - 157.41 Moises Velasquez-Manoff

And so what I really wanted to do for today's episode is drill down into the science behind everything that's being said. both the known good and the known bad, and all the potentials about raw milk. I wanted to do this because I think we should be able to have a nuanced conversation.

158.598 - 185.177 Moises Velasquez-Manoff

Because if scientists and science journalists could clearly explain how dangerous raw milk can be, while still pointing out that yes, there may be certain health benefits, then maybe we can prevent people from going into the corners of the internet where the claims become outrageous and safety is overlooked, with potentially deadly consequences. So here's my article, read by Anthony Ray Perez.

186.198 - 193.427 Moises Velasquez-Manoff

Our producer today is Tali Aboukassis, and our music was written and performed by Aaron Esposito. Thanks for listening.

Chapter 2: Why do some people prefer raw milk?

1046.336 - 1067.703 Anthony Ray Perez

In another experiment meant to simulate asthma, raw milk also blunted the reaction to dust mites, a common respiratory allergen. Heat-treated milk did not have this effect. Van Esk is still investigating why. She talks about the matrix of milk, the fact that, as an evolutionary artifact, milk does many things at once.

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1068.983 - 1083.951 Anthony Ray Perez

Certain bioactive molecules in cow's milk, it contains whey proteins such as lactoferrin, that may subtly stimulate the immune system as well as signaling molecules called cytokines and antibodies, most likely work to direct the calf's immune system toward healthy development.

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1085.032 - 1106.841 Anthony Ray Perez

And because many of these molecules are sensitive to and are formed by high temperatures, heating milk may nullify their benefits. In a study with just nine participants, Van Esk also found that children already allergic to milk were better able to tolerate raw milk than milk treated with high heat, suggesting that such processing may somehow make the milk itself more allergenic.

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1108.161 - 1124.945 Anthony Ray Perez

Importantly, the bovine versions of the cytokines thought to help prevent allergy in human milk are close enough to their human counterparts for the human immune system to recognize and respond to them, says Joost van Mirven, an immunologist who studies milk at Wageningen University in the Netherlands.

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1125.896 - 1139.728 Anthony Ray Perez

Some antibodies in cow's milk may also bind to allergens and prevent them from spurring a reaction in people, he says. Other antibodies may lessen the severity of infections like RSV, a virus linked to the development of asthma.

1140.849 - 1160.978 Anthony Ray Perez

An intriguing epidemiological finding is that children on farms who drink raw milk have a 30% reduction in symptomatic colds in the first year of life compared with those who don't. Another possible explanation for the beneficial effects associated with raw milk may be how it affects the community of microbes inhabiting farming children's bodies.

1161.959 - 1172.63 Anthony Ray Perez

Microbiologists believe that these microbes, which mostly live in the large intestine, greatly influence how the immune system works and whether it's prone to allergic or autoimmune diseases.

1173.587 - 1194.824 Anthony Ray Perez

An epidemiologist studying the farm effect have in fact found that children on farms tend to develop earlier in life than their non-farming peers a microbiome that produces more of a metabolite called butyrate. The more butyrate produced, the lower the chance of developing asthma. How drinking raw milk might contribute to this shift is unclear.

1195.384 - 1211.727 Anthony Ray Perez

Carolyn Roddely, a pediatric allergist at the University of Bern Hospital in Switzerland, posits that the combination of breast milk with the early-life introduction of raw cow's milk may help seed children's microbial communities with key species they don't come by otherwise.

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