Chris Walker

On a late September day in 1988, Delicato Vineyards received an urgent letter from the California Department of Food and Agriculture. It caught the winery's undivided attention. A regulatory agent named Gene Arthur wrote that his agency, along with the ATF, suspected that Delicato had been scammed.

On a late September day in 1988, Delicato Vineyards received an urgent letter from the California Department of Food and Agriculture. It caught the winery's undivided attention. A regulatory agent named Gene Arthur wrote that his agency, along with the ATF, suspected that Delicato had been scammed.

Arthur went on to say that the state had reason to believe that some grape shipments it had received were misidentified as Zinfandel. So he wanted to know, could Delicato get in touch with its suppliers to figure out if there was a mix-up? The winery wasted no time in replying that it was concerned and would help in any way possible. And its executives knew exactly who to ask, because remember...

Arthur went on to say that the state had reason to believe that some grape shipments it had received were misidentified as Zinfandel. So he wanted to know, could Delicato get in touch with its suppliers to figure out if there was a mix-up? The winery wasted no time in replying that it was concerned and would help in any way possible. And its executives knew exactly who to ask, because remember...

When nobody else could get grape, Jack got grape for Delicato. The flag deliveries all came through Jack's brokerage, which was called Corvette Company. So the winery's top brass went straight to their point person, the legs of the Licciardi family business. They asked Michael, do you know anything about these shipments from V&K and Efriana Enterprises?

When nobody else could get grape, Jack got grape for Delicato. The flag deliveries all came through Jack's brokerage, which was called Corvette Company. So the winery's top brass went straight to their point person, the legs of the Licciardi family business. They asked Michael, do you know anything about these shipments from V&K and Efriana Enterprises?

Some pushy state agent wants copies of the grape contracts and maps of the supplier's vineyards, if possible. Michael acted as if this were no problem at all, but underneath his calm veneer, he panicked. This was a problem, because V&K and F. Rihanna Enterprises didn't exist.

Some pushy state agent wants copies of the grape contracts and maps of the supplier's vineyards, if possible. Michael acted as if this were no problem at all, but underneath his calm veneer, he panicked. This was a problem, because V&K and F. Rihanna Enterprises didn't exist.

These were just two of the shell companies that Michael and his co-conspirators had created to mask the grape's true origins. Because by now, they had a whole rolodex of fake names to choose from. Need a phony farm? Take your pick from Green Ranch, Blue Ranch, Van Allen Ranch, Corn Ranch, and more. Need a non-existent person to sign some contracts?

These were just two of the shell companies that Michael and his co-conspirators had created to mask the grape's true origins. Because by now, they had a whole rolodex of fake names to choose from. Need a phony farm? Take your pick from Green Ranch, Blue Ranch, Van Allen Ranch, Corn Ranch, and more. Need a non-existent person to sign some contracts?

Meet Linda Bratton, Richard Patterson, Frank Betancourt, and George Garcia. Those two fake vineyards that the state and ATF were asking about? That was just the tip of the iceberg. So as soon as he finished reassuring the Delicato execs that everything was under control, Michael called an urgent meeting with his co-conspirators.

Meet Linda Bratton, Richard Patterson, Frank Betancourt, and George Garcia. Those two fake vineyards that the state and ATF were asking about? That was just the tip of the iceberg. So as soon as he finished reassuring the Delicato execs that everything was under control, Michael called an urgent meeting with his co-conspirators.

They gathered in secret at an isolated vineyard that Michael did business with near Stockton. As dusk approached, Nick Bavaro showed up, looking annoyed, since it was his birthday, followed shortly by two other growers who'd recently joined the scheme, Joseph Du and Gary Alfieri. In fact, it was Alfieri who'd come up with the name V&K Enterprises.

They gathered in secret at an isolated vineyard that Michael did business with near Stockton. As dusk approached, Nick Bavaro showed up, looking annoyed, since it was his birthday, followed shortly by two other growers who'd recently joined the scheme, Joseph Du and Gary Alfieri. In fact, it was Alfieri who'd come up with the name V&K Enterprises.

He declined my request for an interview, but as he admitted to government officials, "...the name Viviano & Klein was on the door next to my dentist. I happened to see that. It sounded good." The gathered men looked at Michael expectantly. When he filled them in on the state's inquiry, their faces dropped. Damn. The investigators were getting awfully close to exposing their fake businesses.

He declined my request for an interview, but as he admitted to government officials, "...the name Viviano & Klein was on the door next to my dentist. I happened to see that. It sounded good." The gathered men looked at Michael expectantly. When he filled them in on the state's inquiry, their faces dropped. Damn. The investigators were getting awfully close to exposing their fake businesses.

Was this it? Was their whole jig up? They studied each other's body language for clues, and collectively, they came to a decision. No, they couldn't stop now. They'd already lined up big orders for the 88 and 89 harvests. And last season, they'd brought in millions. Alfieri wanted to pay off some farming debts. Michael began construction on a lavish house in a nice neighborhood of Stockton.

Was this it? Was their whole jig up? They studied each other's body language for clues, and collectively, they came to a decision. No, they couldn't stop now. They'd already lined up big orders for the 88 and 89 harvests. And last season, they'd brought in millions. Alfieri wanted to pay off some farming debts. Michael began construction on a lavish house in a nice neighborhood of Stockton.

And Frank Bavaro, well, he wasn't at the meeting, but the 27-year-old had recently splurged on a Ferrari, even if the sports car was a tad conspicuous for the narrow farming roads of San Joaquin County. Each had amassed dazzling amounts of cash in a region prone to hard times. America's addiction to white Zinfandel had transformed their lives.

And Frank Bavaro, well, he wasn't at the meeting, but the 27-year-old had recently splurged on a Ferrari, even if the sports car was a tad conspicuous for the narrow farming roads of San Joaquin County. Each had amassed dazzling amounts of cash in a region prone to hard times. America's addiction to white Zinfandel had transformed their lives.