Chris Walker

Advertising campaigns presented this newest kind of rosé as a ticket to the rarefied society of wine. A sort of gateway for the uninitiated, many of whom needed a sweeter wine to lure them towards the complex world of fermented grapes. Pour yourself a glass and you could straddle old world traditions and California chic. A touch of sophistication without being too snobby.

Advertising campaigns presented this newest kind of rosé as a ticket to the rarefied society of wine. A sort of gateway for the uninitiated, many of whom needed a sweeter wine to lure them towards the complex world of fermented grapes. Pour yourself a glass and you could straddle old world traditions and California chic. A touch of sophistication without being too snobby.

And the thing is, the advertising worked. Many tried out wine for the first time by drinking white Zinfandel. It was part of a broader cultural shift, as Americans went from preferring beer and cocktails to wine. But behind the scenes, well, White Zin's effects on the industry were dramatic and transformative. Not all winemakers had thought this was going to be the next big thing.

And the thing is, the advertising worked. Many tried out wine for the first time by drinking white Zinfandel. It was part of a broader cultural shift, as Americans went from preferring beer and cocktails to wine. But behind the scenes, well, White Zin's effects on the industry were dramatic and transformative. Not all winemakers had thought this was going to be the next big thing.

This is Barry Wiss, who's been Sutter Home's brand ambassador and a confidant of Bob Trincaro's for more than 27 years.

This is Barry Wiss, who's been Sutter Home's brand ambassador and a confidant of Bob Trincaro's for more than 27 years.

As it turned out, the other wineries badly miscalculated by ignoring the white Zinfandel fad. As sales of Sutter Homes wine grew year over year, going from 25,000 bottles in 1980 to over 12 million six years later, no one could deny it anymore. White Zin was in. By 1983, even Mondavi and Behringer had caved.

As it turned out, the other wineries badly miscalculated by ignoring the white Zinfandel fad. As sales of Sutter Homes wine grew year over year, going from 25,000 bottles in 1980 to over 12 million six years later, no one could deny it anymore. White Zin was in. By 1983, even Mondavi and Behringer had caved.

But in arriving late to the party and allowing Trincaro to buy up all those grapes, they had to source whatever Zinfandel was left. It was an industry-wide fight for scraps. And this created havoc for supply chains, not only for producers of white Zinfandel, but also for producers of traditional red Zinfandel. I'm sorry, I don't do pink, I don't do sweet, I don't do wimpy.

But in arriving late to the party and allowing Trincaro to buy up all those grapes, they had to source whatever Zinfandel was left. It was an industry-wide fight for scraps. And this created havoc for supply chains, not only for producers of white Zinfandel, but also for producers of traditional red Zinfandel. I'm sorry, I don't do pink, I don't do sweet, I don't do wimpy.

That's not going to happen. This is Joel Peterson, a veteran winemaker of Sonoma County who is well known for his rich red Zinfandels. He was the founder of Ravenswood Winery.

That's not going to happen. This is Joel Peterson, a veteran winemaker of Sonoma County who is well known for his rich red Zinfandels. He was the founder of Ravenswood Winery.

It didn't take a genius to see what caused the rampant inflation. White Zinfandel was going gangbusters while the supply of its namesake grape tanked.

It didn't take a genius to see what caused the rampant inflation. White Zinfandel was going gangbusters while the supply of its namesake grape tanked.

And as the creator and leading brand of White Zin, Sutter Home had set a low price to appeal to the widest market possible. If this were someone's first wine, you didn't want to scare them off with an expensive price tag. This was a casual wine, a party wine, a flirty fun sip in the sun and spill some gossip kind of wine. No one expected to pay more than $3 a bottle, maybe $4.

And as the creator and leading brand of White Zin, Sutter Home had set a low price to appeal to the widest market possible. If this were someone's first wine, you didn't want to scare them off with an expensive price tag. This was a casual wine, a party wine, a flirty fun sip in the sun and spill some gossip kind of wine. No one expected to pay more than $3 a bottle, maybe $4.

And so as other producers attempted to get in on the game, they found they needed to meet Sutter Home's price point. But how to make cheap white zin when its main ingredient approached stratospheric prices? Well, perhaps now you can see the dilemma, those age-old market forces at play. But the truth is, not everyone was dismayed at this turn of events.

And so as other producers attempted to get in on the game, they found they needed to meet Sutter Home's price point. But how to make cheap white zin when its main ingredient approached stratospheric prices? Well, perhaps now you can see the dilemma, those age-old market forces at play. But the truth is, not everyone was dismayed at this turn of events.

For anyone paying close attention to the situation, it smelled like opportunity. An unprecedented cash grab. A situation that could be exploited by mislabeling grapes. Anyone who managed to pass off cheap kinds of grapes as the more expensive Zinfandel variety stood to make sky-high profits. Provided, of course, they didn't get caught. Steve Lapham remembers sitting at his desk at the U.S.

For anyone paying close attention to the situation, it smelled like opportunity. An unprecedented cash grab. A situation that could be exploited by mislabeling grapes. Anyone who managed to pass off cheap kinds of grapes as the more expensive Zinfandel variety stood to make sky-high profits. Provided, of course, they didn't get caught. Steve Lapham remembers sitting at his desk at the U.S.