Dave Pearson

Hi, Sarah.

I'd picked up a new surfboard the night before, so I was pretty keen to get out there.

And I remember driving home from work.

I worked 100 kilometres away from where I lived, so every afternoon was an hour's drive home.

And I was ringing a couple of mates saying, I'm going for a surf, Savo, anybody want a lift?

So I picked up my neighbour when I got home and off we went out to the beach.

I was keen to surf anything.

It doesn't bother me anyway, but I'm going out.

Yeah, when I got there, one of my young mates was out there on his own and further up the beach there was three or four bodyboarders and I think there was another break out the back where there was a few more bodyboarders out there as well.

So there was a few around but only one guy where we were going.

I jumped off the rocks and paddled straight across onto a wave and the other guys who I was paddling out with were...

Not really back out there yet.

I was the first one out, caught a wave, paddled back out, straight onto another wave, and paddled back out again.

Both of them were only short waves, but they were fun.

And then I got a third wave.

And as I was paddling for one of the other guys who was sitting on the outside of me, I told him to take it.

And he goes, no, he said, you're in a better spot.

So I took the wave and it was quite a long, good wave.

And I had a big grin on my face because new surfboard, does it feel all right?

It felt pretty good.