Jason Momoa

paddling out and I just keep trying to go over every wave I lose the board he loses the board it's just the shit fucking it is brutal getting out of the spot and so we end up getting out really far on the end like pretty much on the shelf of Maui and I have seven more miles to paddle my feet are covered in blood and I'm just literally like with my ancestors just paddling the rest of this way head down and we get out and I mean I could have been trolled

like trolling this whole fucking coast.

Blood's all over the board.

Right, all this blood you're dropping too.

And we get in and that's, I used to smoke and I used to smoke like two, three packs a day.

my kids couldn't stop for my my ex i couldn't i couldn't stop smoking and uh the moment i came out i never smoked again like i just really just died just died like i tried and tried but like i couldn't do it again because i just i gave up like i gave up my life do you remember the moment you felt that you were saved that you that he actually that you actually got through it do you remember that moment i remember seeing him but i was like uh but you know i was 10 minutes

You know, that would have been, had there not been the outer reef, like had there not been some, you know, and I do believe my ancestors.

I do believe my, you know, I prayed to my grandmother, my grandpa.

I mean, I was, I was, I was reaching and I was in a bad position.

And, uh, you're stuck out there in that kind of ways with no board, you're

You know, I did a little harder run.

I think, you know, I have qualities that are – I don't know.

I was pretty hard on myself that night.

I did a lot of stupid shit, and I just really was like pissed at myself for the position I was in and probably tortured myself even more for the stupid shit that I did.

Wow.

So I don't know.

It was a bit of a hard learning curve, but I feel like I've always had that where it's just like –

I think if you have, yeah, I think there's a potential that you have that needs to come out.

And I just, until I met the people that actually, like, until I met my partners, until I met the people that actually made me get those things out, I was just bashing myself with addiction and drugs.

Yeah.