Joel Parkinson

And everyone thought, oh, he's dead on that thing.

There's no way he's making that wave.

And then he shouldn't have made that wave.

And it became one of the greatest waves he ever rode.

No, not really.

We were pretty good.

There were times in heats we were definitely aggressive, like paddling around and trying to snake and do all that.

But when we were free surfing, it was pretty good.

We did a couple of...

really cool trips we went right up wa one time and we're up northwest wa surfing this really shallow heavy right hander and it's only short but it closes out onto like really shallow urchin reef oh and it was shit the wipeout was horrible and you it was a way where you barely make most of the time but you get a good ride and have to try and get out of it and he had this dive down where when the wave breaks over in the barrel he has this like inside trough like and it's

You got to hit it within like an inches and it will spit you out the back and you won't get wiped out.

So you'll go right out the back of the wave and you're all safe.

And he was just nailing that little trough perfectly every time.

And he was trying to explain to me and I did it a couple of times and then I got caught and I got destroyed and was just like, what?

He's just, I don't even think, this wave is like such a scary wave.

I don't think he wiped out once out of two days of riding it.

He was getting closed out on and just pulling out the back and grab his leg up, grab his board and paddle back.

Super in tune, really good timing.

Even just like, you know, reading the oceans or like guesstimation, you know, and knowledge.

You've got to kind of have an idea of where you think it'll be next.