Justin Ho

At the shop's front counter, repeat customer Randy Harley makes a lunch order for him and his coworkers.

He tells me prices are way too high.

He tells me prices are way too high.

Because brisket has been mastered and marketed to perfection, he says, to a fault.

Because brisket has been mastered and marketed to perfection, he says, to a fault.

A mile down West 2nd Street, I talked to third-generation pitmaster Wayne Miller at his renowned restaurant, Louie Miller Barbecue.

A mile down West 2nd Street, I talked to third-generation pitmaster Wayne Miller at his renowned restaurant, Louie Miller Barbecue.

There's ample tables and chairs, and you can smell the brisket cooking.

There's ample tables and chairs, and you can smell the brisket cooking.

Louie Miller is an institution when it comes to Texas barbecue.

Louie Miller is an institution when it comes to Texas barbecue.

The restaurant opened in 1949, back when cooking brisket was economical.

The restaurant opened in 1949, back when cooking brisket was economical.

But Texas barbecue, especially brisket, has blown up over the last 15 years.

But Texas barbecue, especially brisket, has blown up over the last 15 years.

And cows aren't growing a third brisket.

And cows aren't growing a third brisket.

He spends around $15,000 a month on brisket.

He spends around $15,000 a month on brisket.

It's about half of his food costs.