Kelly Slater

Yeah.

You know, it was either somebody I hugely respected or it was somebody who's surfing I didn't really respect and I thought I should beat him.

So I'm like, I got to go prove, you know, I got a chip on my shoulder kind of thing.

And when you're young, you kind of got a chip on your shoulder for some reason.

And when you're older, you got a chip on your shoulder for the opposite reason.

Right.

And so you go through this sort of whole crescendo of, you know, reasons why and how you put your energy and efforts out there.

Thank you for watching the Ultimate Human Podcast.

This is a very hotly debated topic.

Depending if you win or lose, the judges were either for you or they hate you.

Because as a layman, I'm like, that guy looked like he did a good job.

He lost?

I suppose it would be like if you were judging music, you would get people who are good musicians, you would hope, you know, relatively skilled musicians and knowledgeable, and they would judge the skill at which someone played a song.

I mean, because surfing is an art form as well, right?

So you're sort of judging this creativity, right?

How they use the wave.

But there's also a huge luck factor in surfing.

Like the right wave could come at the right time that's way better than all the other waves.

Yeah.

And so the idea behind judging surfing is you're trying to imagine what is the outermost limit of what can be done on a wave.