Kelly Slater

There's a few waves I can think back in my lifetime over 30, 40 years that really certain just individual waves stand out.

Really?

Yeah.

What was it that stood out about it?

Being inside the barrel or... Yeah, usually just some... Just the sheer size of it and the speed going down the face of it or...

No, just how well you connect with the wave.

Maybe how deep or how long you get in the barrel.

Or you find just the perfect wave and looking for years for that one wave at that one location.

You know, because every wave is different.

There's no two waves alike.

There's a lot of waves that are similar on the right side, that come at the right angle.

at the right height, the right part of the reef that you're surfing at.

So there are waves that look very alike, but there's no two waves alike.

And it's really about how far you can push yourself to take off deep and late on the wave and still make it and match the speed of the waves, right?

You don't always have to be going super fast in order to have a great ride, you know?

Yeah.

Maybe a super fast, long, deep tube is the most impressive thing and most exciting thing.

But sometimes, like I was saying earlier, sometimes going slow and pacing what the wave's asking you for is the right thing.

But it is probably always more exciting when you're as deep as you can possibly be on a wave and going as fast as you possibly can go.

And the things trying to outrace you and you keep up with it somehow, that's the most exciting, funnest thing.