Nathan 'Curly' Marks

And then he gets on the sand.

He runs to the fucking lifeguard.

He gets him to call the police.

And I'm like, mate, don't try and act like a fucking hero on the water if you're not going to do anything on the sand.

You're a fucking pussy, bro.

Right, now I've been surfing for probably about eight months now.

I'm starting to get up and surf now.

You know what I mean?

I'm comfortable out there enough to do it.

It's probably the only time that I have in my life where I can go out and my brain stops thinking.

You know what I mean?

It's the only time I'll go out in that water.

There might not even be any waves, bro, and I'll just still paddle out and sit on my board and watch the sun come up.

And it's just the only time where nothing matters to me for about an hour.

Nice.

It's very important to have something like that, eh?

You have to, bro.

You have to.

Because everything we've got, bro, these phones, everything that's running, everything's so fast, bro.

No one ever takes a moment to breathe and think about, you know, how good is life, bro?