Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas
Episodes
Q&A Episode: How Horween Grades Their Leather
30 Dec 2025
Contributed by Lukas
How do the world’s best tanneries stay consistent, and what happens when they experiment with things like squid ink?In this episode of the Full Grai...
The Business of Luxury Shoes: Inside Leffot with Steven Taffel
17 Dec 2025
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode of the Full Grain Podcast, we sit down with Steven Taffel, the founder of Leffot—one of the world's premier destinations for fi...
Schott NYC Owner Reveals: Why We Can't Make Jackets Faster
11 Dec 2025
Contributed by Lukas
Why does it take so long to get a premium leather jacket? In this episode, Nick Horween and Phil Kalas sit down with Jason Schott, the 4th generation ...
Inside Carmina: 6 Generations of Shoemaking
03 Dec 2025
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode of the Full Grain Podcast, we sit down with Carmina Albaladejo from the legendary Mallorcan brand, Carmina Shoemaker. With a history s...
Patina Thunderdome & The World's Best Boot Event BOOT CAMP 2025
30 Sep 2025
Contributed by Lukas
Stitchdown Boot Camp is in CHICAGO this year! Ben Robison from Stitchdown tells us why to come and shares some updates about the Patina Thunderdome.ht...
Made for the NFL
06 Aug 2025
Contributed by Lukas
Dan Rigele is the former plant manager of the Wilson Sporting Goods factory in Ada, Ohio, where NFL footballs have been made for decades.Get a wallet ...
AI, Architecture, & Craftsmanship: A Designer's Take on the Future - MAKR
16 Jul 2025
Contributed by Lukas
Our most listened to guest is back! Jason Gregory from Makr disusses a wide range of topics from inspiration, AI impacts, architecture, creation, and ...
Wyatt's Favorite Grant Stone Boots
09 Jul 2025
Contributed by Lukas
In this exclusive interview, Wyatt Gilmore, CEO and founder of Grant Stone, shares his honest opinions on various boots and shoes. He's joined by...
NEW Viberg NYC Store Opening Soon
02 Jul 2025
Contributed by Lukas
Get the exclusive scoop! In this interview, we're joined by Brett Viberg and Nick Horween. Brett shares exciting details about the upcoming Viber...
Q&A Oil-Tanned CXL & Curry Shell Cordovan
21 Mar 2025
Contributed by Lukas
Nick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your urgent leather questions!Ashland Leather Everyday Belt in Black Illini Latigo: https://ashlandleather.com/prod...
Skip Horween Explains Latigo, Illini Latigo, California Tanneries
14 Mar 2025
Contributed by Lukas
Skip Horween describes Horween's Latigo and Illini Latigo variants. Illini Latigo's originates as Horween's version of California Latig...
Nick (Stridewise) & Nick (Horween) Discuss Environmental Impact
03 Feb 2025
Contributed by Lukas
Nick English (Stridewise) and Nick Horween (Horween Leather) discuss regulations and environmental impact of tanneries. Leather Working Group (LWG) au...
Wine Tasting for Leather - Live at Stitchdown Boot Camp 2024
13 Jan 2025
Contributed by Lukas
Our first ever in-person podcast at Stitchdown's Boot Camp 2024 in Brooklyn, NYC. Nick Horween (Horween Leather) and Phil Kalas (Ashland Leather)...
Leather. And Why it's Still Good.
11 Nov 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Nick investigates the question of "why does leather stay relevant in some places and go away in others?". Also discussed: Leather care and S...
EP56: Q&A NEW Horween Leather Aspen, Waterproof CXL, Farm Boots
15 Oct 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Nick and Phil answer your most pressing leather questions from YouTube. Leave your questions for us in the comments.https://www.ashlandleather.com/htt...
EP55: Skip Horween Leather Industry & Trade Shows
09 Oct 2024
Contributed by Lukas
All Horween takeover. Nick and Skip Horween discuss the leather industry and trade shows.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https:...
EP54: Why is shell cordovan so expensive!?
30 Sep 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Nick Horween explains why shell cordovan (and leather in general) is expensive. Cost breakdown includes hides, material, labor, regulations and more.h...
EP53: Horween SHUTDOWN & Maintaining a 100+ Year-Old Leather Tannery
16 Sep 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Every year Horween performs scheduled maintenance on many pieces of equipment that are over 100 years old.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.h...
EP52: Nick's Handmade Boots & Horween Leather Co. Discuss Shell Cordovan
30 Aug 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Shuyler Mowe (Nick’s Handmade Boots) and John Culliton (Horween Leather Sales) talk with Nick about boots, leather, challenges and more.https://nick...
EP51: ICON 4x4 Jonathan Ward
22 Aug 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Jonathan Ward (ICON 4x4) is an industrial designer and bespoke crafter of vehicles, clothing and leather goods. Jonathan shares his approach and philo...
EP50: Horween Leather Tanner Explains Leather Finishing
13 Aug 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Horween Tanner, Esteban Perez, explains drying methods and leather finishing.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/...
EP49: Boot-Wearing Guide to Horween Leather
06 Aug 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Stitchdown's writer, Zaid Hintzman, asks the best questions for boot fans interested in Horween leather. Nick and Phil explain the features and c...
EP48: Leather Tanning 101
15 Jul 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Horween Tanner, Esteban Perez, explains leather tanning and retanning. Leave your tanning and finishing questions in the YouTube comments.https://www....
EP47: Dean Delray, Leather Jackets, Stand-Up Comedy
08 Jul 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Dean Delray is a stand-up comedian, podcaster, design lover and jacket collector.https://www.deandelray.com/https://www.instagram.com/deandelray/?hl=e...
EP46: Q&A Chromepak vs. CXL, Horween Pinnacle, Coffee Tanning, Why Pit Tan?
01 Jul 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Nick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your most pressing leather questions.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullg...
EP45: Shell Cordovan, Dublin, Essex, Pit Tanning, Tree Barks
24 Jun 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Nick and Phil explore the similarities and differences of Shell Cordovan and Horween’s Essex leather. Both leathers are tanned using the same blend ...
EP44: NBA Basketball Leather - Leather vs. Plastic
12 Jun 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Nick explains why leather is the choice material for professional NBA basketball and NFL football players. Phil and Nick discuss material options and ...
EP43: 1940s Timber Tanned Calf Leather
28 May 2024
Contributed by Lukas
First tanned in 1940, Timber Tanned Calf is a legacy leather that is as storied as it is beautiful. The formula was lost. Despite the tannery’s best...
EP42: Horween Cypress, Latigo vs. CXL, Grey Colors, Small vs. Established Brands
03 May 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Starting with the cowboy origins of Latigo leathers, Nick delves into the details of Cypress, one of Horween’s latest leather offerings. We explore ...
EP41: ⚡Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome⚡, Boot Camp, Leather Perspective
19 Apr 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Ben Robinson from Stitchdown joins Nick Horween and Phil Kalas to chat Thunderdome, Boot Camp, and Leather. Congratulations to all of the winners of t...
EP40: CXL is Overrated?💰 Is Alden Overpriced? WWII Boots, Dale’s Leatherworks
12 Apr 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Asking the hard questions up top: Is Horween Chromexcel (CXL) leather overrated? Is Alden overpriced? Dale from Dale’s Leatherworks shares his opini...
EP39: Sam Parker, Context Clothing, Alden, Roy Boot, Wisconsin Footwear, Supper Clubs
05 Apr 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Sam Parker is the co-founder of Context Clothing. He is one of the individuals behind the creation of the famous Roy Boot by Alden x Context. Context ...
Ep38: Q&A Brain Tanning(!) Leather, Horween Predator, Horsebutt, Rancourt
29 Mar 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Nick and Phil take on your hardest hitting leather questions including leather terms, brain tanning, leather delays, Horween’s Predator leather, hor...
EP37: Stridewise, Best Shell Cordovan, Veg vs. Chrome tan, Boot Collecting
22 Mar 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Nick English is the owner of www.stridewise.com, a blog and YouTube channel focusing on boots and casual durable stuff. A wide range of leather and bo...
EP: 36 WTF is Aniline? Aniline Leather & Leather Finishing🖌️
15 Mar 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Are you considering aniline leather? Or perhaps a completely painted leather? Join Nick and Phil as they delve into various leather finishes, highligh...
EP35: Suede, Nubuck, Rough Out Waxed Flesh and Genuine Leather: Everything You Want to Know
07 Mar 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Nick and Phil discuss the differences and similarities in “genuine leathers” including suede, split suede, nubuck, rough out, and waxed flesh. How...
EP34: LIVE Q&A Shinki Shell Cordovan, Seidel Double Shot, Calf, Predator, Horsebutt
22 Jan 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Nick and Phil answer your most pressing leather questions. 0:00 Favorite Episodes4:03 Arabica Lux Leather6:00 Saphir Mirror Gloss9:11 Tanner’s Blen...
EP33: Ultimate Leather Care Guide. Horween Shell Cordovan Polishing Secrets
15 Jan 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Going deep on leather care. 0:00 1990’s Miami Painting1:55 The Ultimate Leather Care Guide4:40 Nick Horween’s Leather Care Routine7:58 Leather is...
EP32: Alden Indy Boot, What is Quality, Meat Industry, Rose Anvil Weston Kay Pt.2
13 Nov 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Part two of two with Weston Kay from Rose Anvil. Check out the Rose Anvil YouTube channel to see boots cut in half.0:00 Alden Indy Boot11:30 Making Mi...
EP31: Rose Anvil Cut in Half. Form vs. Function. Shell Cordovan Engineer Boots. Alden Controversy. Part 1 of 2.
02 Nov 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Part one of two. Cutting apart Weston Kay from Rose Anvil. Weston’s YouTube channel has cut countless boots in half for our sadistic pleasure. He ha...
EP30 New Leathers at Horween, Stitchdown Boot Camp
10 Oct 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Sad to have missed the first ever Boot Camp. Let us know how it was? Today we are making up for it by asking Nick to review some of the newly develope...
EP29: Thunderdome, Bo Jackson, What Makes Leather Smell?, Hot Stuffing Explained
02 Oct 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Answering the important questions. Nick Horween explains why hot stuffing imparts a great leather scent. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is ...
EP28: Rare Shell Cordovan
25 Sep 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Nick Horween explains the rarity of shell cordovan, rare shell colors, and supply challenges.Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed f...
EP27: FEW Spirits, Craft Spirit Appreciation 101, Barrel Aging, Bourbon
12 Jun 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Meet Paul Hletko, the mastermind behind FEW Spirits, a craft distillery in Chicago that creates award-winning spirits with a twist. Paul shares his in...
EP26: Nomad Goods Brian Hahn: Creating Apple Tech Accessories to Work from Anywhere
05 Jun 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Brian Hahn is the co-founder of Nomad Goods. They make innovative tech accessories for the nomadic lifestyle.0:00 Work from anywhere4:16 At Best Buy a...
EP25: Comparing Shell Cordovan, Horsehide, Cow, Steer, Deer, Bison
22 May 2023
Contributed by Lukas
What do you get when you cross a cow, a horse, a bison, and a deer? No, it’s not a joke. It’s a leather tannery lesson from Nick Horween and Phil ...
EP24: The History of Buckleguy: How Hardware is Made, Sourcing Hardware and Leather
15 May 2023
Contributed by Lukas
The Inside Scoop on Buckles, Hardware, and LeatherIn this episode, we sit down with Hugh Harriss, the 4th generation proprietor of Buckleguy. Hugh sha...
EP23: Portland Leather Goods Curtis Matsko
08 May 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Curtis is the CEO, founder, and the energy for Portland Leather Goods and Patina.https://www.portlandleathergoods.com/https://patina.com/0:00 Coming t...
EP22: AI Asks About Leather, Patina Thunderdome Recap, Bog Bodies
01 May 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Back in the saddle again. We’re back with another podcast for the inquisitive minds. Join us, Nick Horween and Phil Kalas, as we delve into the intr...
EP21: Maverick Leather, Horween Seconds, USA Tanneries, New Car Smell, Salz Tannery
20 Mar 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Matt Foster started Maverick Leather 40 years ago. He has a lifetime of leather information. From their new home in Bend, Oregon Maverick sells Horwee...
EP20: Oak Street Bootmakers, Calf Shortage, Made in USA, Hand Lasting, Leather Board, Ralph Lauren
13 Mar 2023
Contributed by Lukas
George Vlagos started Oak Street Bootmakers in 2010. The brand makes boots and shoes in the USA and has a wide offering of styles, leathers, and color...
EP19: Werner Erkelens, Bass Player for Monuments, Aviations, International Touring Musician
06 Mar 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Werner is the bassist for Monuments and Aviations. He shares his passion for music and unveils some truths about the touring life of a musician.0:00 C...
EP18: Shell Cordovan Scratches and Repair, NEW Leather, Teacore, Wooly CXL
27 Feb 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Nick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your most pressing questions. Have a question? Email [email protected]:00 Chat GPT2:14 Cordovan & Dub...
E17: Black Bear Brand, Kevin Costner Jacket, Vintage Cars, Motorcycles, Travel, Boro, Wesco
20 Feb 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Josh Sirlin lives in chaos and it is the chaos that has created the products for Black Bear Brand. He tells the story of how he has awoken the bear an...
E16: Dashing Chicago, Alden, Edward Green, Leather Care, Proper Fit
13 Feb 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Sean Moran from Dashing Chicago. Sean used to work for Haberdash and Leffot in Chicago. He has carried his relationships forward with Alden and Edward...
E15: We need to talk about Chromexcel, Boots, Mechanical Seals, Historical Documents, WWII
06 Feb 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Nick Horween resurrects some 100+ year old documents uncovering some of Chromexcel’s history. We discuss the origins of Chromexcel, some of the orig...
E14: Grant Stone Part 2 Wyatt & Josh’s Shoe Journey, Women’s Footwear, New Styles/Colors, Quality Specs
26 Dec 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Part two of our conversation with Wyatt and Josh from Grant Stone.https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guarant...
E13: Grant Stone, Leather Break, Alden, Heel Slip, Lasts
19 Dec 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Part one of our conversation with Wyatt and Josh from Grant Stone. Part two goes up on December 26th 2022.https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/Need a walle...
E12: The Stitchdown Shoecast - Ben and Ticho
12 Dec 2022
Contributed by Lukas
The crossover episode you've been waiting for. SHOECAST with Ben and Ticho from Stitchdown Shoecast.https://www.stitchdown.com/https://www.stitch...
E11: Translucent Leather, Shrunken Horsebutt, JR Soles, Russian Reindeer Boxboard
05 Dec 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Answering all of your important questions. A livestream replay with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guarant...
E10: 3sixteen - Raw Denim, Self Edge, 20th Anniversary Collabs
28 Nov 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Andrew Chen and Johan Lam from 3sixteen tell us about their 20 year history. Starting with t-shirts and inspired by vintage clothing, they are now kno...
E9: Jason Gregory MAKR Studio, Leather Goods, Made in USA, Minimalism
21 Nov 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Jason Gregory simply loves making stuff. From leather goods, canvas bags, furniture and even architecture -- Jason's entire being is devoted to c...
E8: Patina, Veg Tan, Olive Tan, Chrome Tan, Wax Flesh, Patina Thunderdome
14 Nov 2022
Contributed by Lukas
What is patina? Nick Horween explains what patina is, how to prevent it, and what we love about it. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guar...
E7: Anthony Spina SYSTEM, Old Style, White Claw, Inclusive Drinking, Dive Bars, Tannery Row
07 Nov 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Today's guest is the founder of SYSTEM Seltzer, Anthony Spina. Anthony describes drinking habits in the US, Chicago dive bars, the export of US c...
E6: Skip Horween Tannery Work, Seasonality of Hides, Made in Maine, Boat Shoe Indicator
31 Oct 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Skip Horween is the 4th generation owner of Horween Leather Company in Chicago. 0:00 What it is like working at a tannery?5:50 Material Price increase...
E5: Leather Prices Increasing, Supply Chain, Just In Time Inventory, James Webb Space Telescope
24 Oct 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Space facts! Along with just about everything, we are experiencing leather price increases. Why are they going up? Chatting about supply chain issues,...
E4: Sustainability, Environmental Stewardship, "Vegan Leather", Patagonia, Waterproof
17 Oct 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Sustainability is a loaded term. Everything has an impact. Nick Horween breakdown the environmental auditing process that many tanneries receive. &q...
E3: Brett Viberg of Viberg Boot - New Brand Direction, Service Boot, Chromexcel Lottery, Customer Service
10 Oct 2022
Contributed by Lukas
A conversation with Brett Viberg from Viberg boot. We ask Brett about what changes are being made to the brand, how the service boot ushered in a new ...
E2: Football Leather Hat(?), What is Full Grain Leather, JR Rendenbach Closing
30 Sep 2022
Contributed by Lukas
As you expect, everything else is falling apart.Today's episode goes hard on leather marketing terms like, full grain, top grain, genuine leather...
E1: Chicago Hot Dogs, Podcasts, Being Old, HBO Shows
25 Sep 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Please allow myself to introduce...myself. Full Grain Podcast is Nick Horween and Phil Kalas chatting about quality goods and the people who make them...