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It's Been a Minute

Fast fashion vs. Trump: why women may pay more in the tariff wars

02 Apr 2025

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At the beginning of the year, Brittany spoke to ELLE Fashion Features Director and author, Véronique Hyland, about the growing trend of underconsumption content online. No-Buy January, buying secondhand, and mending old clothes seemed to be taking hold amongst some of the most popular influencers - even though the guiding principle of underconsumption is something we've been doing for a long time. Then, Trump started implementing tariffs on China, Mexico, and Canada - and now even the European Union. That made Brittany think: how would fast fashion be affected by this? And would underconsumption move from a hashtag to a lifestyle? To find out, The Indicator's Wailin Wong joins the show to break down how tariffs will affect Americans who love to shop... when the prices drop.Learn more about sponsor message choices: podcastchoices.com/adchoicesNPR Privacy Policy

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0.771 - 15.502 NPR Announcer

Support for NPR comes from the Cy Sims Foundation, since 1985, supporting advances in science, education, and the arts towards a fairer, more just, and civil society. More information is available at cysimsfoundation.org.

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18.985 - 46.814 Brittany Luce

Hello, hello. I'm Brittany Luce, and you're listening to It's Been a Minute from NPR, a show about what's going on in culture and why it doesn't happen by accident. Two or three months ago, I went into my closet to do my routine purge. Attempted it and failed many times. But this last time, it actually worked.

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49.389 - 61.514 Véronique Hyland

Emma Chamberlain, who's one of the biggest influencers, she became known in part for her thrift hauls. And she just threw out 95% of her wardrobe.

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61.835 - 85.053 Brittany Luce

That is Veronique Hyland. Thank you for having me. Fashion features director at Elle and author of Dress Code, unlocking fashion from the new look to millennial pink. She's followed online fashion trends from Mob Wives to Vera Bradley's TikTok revival. And after watching Emma Chamberlain's closet clean out, she noticed the latest shift in online fashion. Under consumption.

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85.512 - 104.998 Véronique Hyland

I was seeing people sometimes refer to it as underconsumption core. And I thought, well, this is something that a lot of people have been doing for a long time because there are people who are doing no buy January or even no buy years. And then there are sort of more low buy or shop your closet, as we called it during the recession.

105.718 - 121.785 Brittany Luce

According to McKinsey & Company, from 2000 to 2014, clothing production doubled, and the number of garments purchased per capita increased by about 60%. That's in part due to the rise of fast fashion. And now, some consumers are seeing the fallout of that.

122.105 - 143.213 Véronique Hyland

People have remarked that there's been an overall decline in clothing quality, or that when they're getting vintage pieces, even sometimes from a specific brand, the quality is better than before. the newer and people talking about relying on natural fibers like wool and cotton more, looking at tags very closely to see if things will last.

143.755 - 160.893 Brittany Luce

At the time of our chat, we wondered if the shift would stick in the post-New Year's resolution shuffle. It's no secret that Americans are deeply concerned about the economy, and there are numerous concerns about what fast fashion is doing to the environment. But that hasn't stopped the rise of places like Shein or Taimou.

161.593 - 165.658 Brittany Luce

However, there's one other piece of the puzzle that may influence the way we buy.

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