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Short Wave

Why your sunscreen is finally getting a major upgrade

12 Jun 2026

Transcription

Transcript generated automatically by AI and may contain errors.

Chapter 1: What is the main topic discussed in this episode?

0.031 - 10.283 Ira Glass

This is Ira Glass. On This American Life, one thing we like is a good mystery. Sometimes about really big things, but most times, the little mysteries are the best.

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10.584 - 36.554

Our lost and found is currently filled with pants. I don't know, I've never seen this happen. Wait, this is true? This is true. Mysteries of every size, each week. This American Life, wherever you get your podcasts. You're listening to Shortwave from NPR. Until this week, the United States hadn't approved a new sunscreen ingredient in almost 30 years.

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37.235 - 50.254

That changed when the FDA approved a new chemical UV filter for U.S. sunscreens on Tuesday. NPR health correspondent Maria Godoy is here to tell us all about it. Hey, Maria. Hi, Gina. So what is this ingredient that just got approved?

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50.437 - 71.117 Maria Godoy

Yeah, it's called Bimetrezanol, and it's a chemical UV filter that's been used in sunscreens in Europe and Asia for a long time. Often it's also sold under the name Tenosorb S. Here you will see it as Parcel Shield. That's the trademark name for it from the company that got it approved for sale in the U.S. I talked about this with Dr. Heather Rogers.

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71.357 - 79.465 Maria Godoy

She's a dermatologist in Seattle and a spokesperson for the American Academy of Dermatology. And she says she is psyched about this new ingredient.

79.597 - 85.289 Dr. Heather Rogers

It hits like really every box for us that we have been waiting for as dermatologists and consumers.

85.87 - 99.799

I love sunscreen, so I'm really excited about this. We actually did an episode last year on why U.S. sunscreens have lagged behind European and Asian ones. And part of the reason was that there's different regulations for how sunscreen is approved in the U.S.

99.863 - 103.287 Maria Godoy

Yeah, that's right. I absolutely love sunscreens, too.

Chapter 2: What is the new sunscreen ingredient approved by the FDA?

103.387 - 123.592 Maria Godoy

Use it every day of the year. And you're right. It's a long process, partially because in the U.S. there's a higher bar for proving that they're safe and effective. In Europe, they treat sunscreens as cosmetics, and it's also expensive. So companies in the past have looked to get new sunscreen ingredients approved here. But they gave up because it just cost way too much money.

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124.133 - 131.123 Maria Godoy

And in fact, it took 20 years to get this new ingredient approved here and millions and millions of dollars.

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134.909 - 169.516

Today on the show, why approve this new sunscreen now after a 20-year wait? Plus, how it works. I'm Regina Barber, and you're listening to Shortwave, the science podcast from NPR. You know, every day on Up First, NPR's Golden Globe-nominated morning news podcast, we bring you three essential stories. At the heart of each story are questions. What really happened? What really mattered?

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What happens next? At NPR, we stand for your right to be curious and to follow the facts. Follow Up First wherever you get your podcasts and start your day knowing what matters and why.

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181.454 - 187.752 Ira Glass

Follow us to make sure you never miss a new episode. New ones drop every Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday.

188.356 - 208.59

Okay, Maria, we're talking about the newly FDA-approved sunscreen ingredient bimetrezanol. And to understand it, I think we need a little sunscreen 101. Sunscreen's main purpose is to protect against two types of UV rays, UVA and UVB. These are different parts of the electromagnetic spectrum, but that's probably not helpful for people.

208.61 - 211.495

So, Maria, break down what's the difference between both of them.

211.475 - 231.755 Maria Godoy

Okay, so what I use this heuristic, which is UVA, those are the longer wavelengths, and they're responsible for aging. So A for aging, like premature aging. UVB, they're shorter wavelengths. And those are the ones responsible for, you know, burning, basically. B for burning. A for aging. Okay.

232.356 - 237.581

But they actually both kind of affect both things, right? It's a little bit more complicated than that.

Chapter 3: Why has the U.S. sunscreen approval process taken so long?

328.125 - 344.267 Maria Godoy

Yeah, exactly. Those are minerals, you know, in their pure form, they're white powders. And so when you apply it, they often leave what people call it a white cast. You know, it depends on the formulation and the SPF level, but you'll often hear people complain that their mineral sunscreens don't blend super well. So...

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344.247 - 351.678 Maria Godoy

you know, they might not be as likely to wear them because they don't want to look funny. And Heather Rogers says, that's a problem. You want people to wear sunscreen.

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351.858 - 359.789 Dr. Heather Rogers

Particularly if you're a person of color. Zinc is going to make you look pale, white, or ashy, which really makes it hard to use on a regular basis.

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359.809 - 362.033

But Benetrizol is different, right?

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362.373 - 369.103 Maria Godoy

Yeah. So it's a chemical UV filter. It's a chemical sunscreen, what we call chemical sunscreens. And they work a little different.

369.123 - 372.668

Because they get absorbed into your skin, right? Instead of like sitting on top of your skin.

372.833 - 387.138 Maria Godoy

Yeah, right. So they blend super evenly. And so you end up with something that's transparent on your skin. And the plus side of chemical sunscreens is they don't make people look super ghostly pale. But one downside is for a lot of people, they can be more irritating.

387.759 - 399.72 Maria Godoy

I don't know about you, Gina, but I've always actually avoided chemical sunscreens because I sweat a lot in the heat, which is when you're going to be wearing sunscreen the most. Although I wear it all the time. And anyway, when I sweat, it gets in my eyes and that burns.

399.74 - 403.446

Yeah, I've noticed the more I reapply, the more it gets into my eyes.

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