Starlight and Storm: The Inner Thoughts of a Mountain Guide
Episodes
Open Dialogue
20 Mar 2020
Contributed by Lukas
I’m opening things up for people if they have interest in specific topics that they would like to hear about. [email protected]
Top Managed Systems
29 Nov 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Super fun systems with many variations.
Client Care
18 Nov 2019
Contributed by Lukas
I know I said I was done with recording episodes. C’est la vie. This is a huge topic.
This is the end...Probably.
02 Nov 2019
Contributed by Lukas
I think I’ve said enough at this point.
Multi Pitch Stance Management
25 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
This is a topic that is more nuanced than often credited. You can greatly increase your efficiency and comfort by getting better at stance management....
Humility
20 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Something we should all try to cultivate.
Anchoring pt 13:Final Thoughts
18 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Just a few thoughts to close this series of episodes.
Anchoring pt 12:Hybrid and Cascading Anchors
18 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
These are really useful systems.
Anchoring pt 11:Distributive Anchors
18 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Also an anchoring style that is often not fully understood.
Anchoring pt 10:Sequential Anchors
18 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Good anchors but often not understood fully.
Anchoring pt 9:Rock Gear
11 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
More thoughts on anchors.
Anchoring pt 8:Snow and Ice
09 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
These can be tricky mediums to build anchors in.
Anchoring pt 7:Natural Anchors
08 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Natural anchors require careful evaluation just like any other type of anchor.
Anchoring pt 6:Efficiency and Strong
07 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Smaller but important topics.
Anchoring pt 5:No Extension
07 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
This is definitely a misunderstood topic. We need to be aware of extension and mitigate it which is different than dogmatically following a no extensi...
Anchoring pt 4:Equalization
07 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
A big topic that is often misunderstood.
Anchoring pt 3:Micro Structure
07 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
This is the other side of the macro structure coin.
Anchoring pt 2:Macro Structure
07 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
This is an important concept in anchoring.
Anchoring pt 1:Redundancy
07 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
One piece if the anchoring puzzle.
This Game is Real
04 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Understanding the risks but also articulating those risks to our students is important. Helping them see the risks and have reflection on their choice...
What’s in your Pack
25 Sep 2019
Contributed by Lukas
As guides we need to carry extra equipment to deal with emergencies. Having the right tools for the situation is critical.
Fatigue
09 Sep 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Fatigue is something to be aware of for both you and your clients.
Navigation
07 Sep 2019
Contributed by Lukas
This is a really important skill for guides to have. Check out my friend James at axles and antennas for good custom printing on tyvek. I recommend th...
Dynamic Guiding for Young Children in Single and Multi Pitch Terrain
30 Aug 2019
Contributed by Lukas
I really like working with this population. You can create some very unique experiences with young kids but it requires a greater command of many diff...
The Guiding Paradox
30 Aug 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Trying to balance your profession with your recreation can be very challenging. It has been for me.
Rant
29 Aug 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Here are some great examples of choices by climbers that could have had negative implications.
Prescriptive vs Descriptive
28 Aug 2019
Contributed by Lukas
This is a way of thinking and a way of teaching.
Sustainability
23 Aug 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Thoughts on sustainability.
Closures
29 Jul 2019
Contributed by Lukas
A really important topic that is one of the reasons for many accidents.
Biases in Guide Education
27 Jul 2019
Contributed by Lukas
This is an interesting topic. It’s something that I’m becoming more and more aware of. It’s another topic that we can look at through the lens o...
Spotting
23 Jul 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Often an over utilized technique.
Techtalk #10 SLCD’s
14 Jul 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Camming devices are a wonderful invention that really allowed climbing to move forward. Despite their ease of use they are very complex.
The Guiding Spirit
13 Jul 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Check out www.legadoinitiative.org. This is the conservation organization that is making a real impact with the people of Mt Namuli. They work with ot...
Accessibility
11 Jul 2019
Contributed by Lukas
This is a topic that means different things to different people. It’s something I think about a lot.
Own That Belay
24 Jun 2019
Contributed by Lukas
I'm constantly seeing poor belay management in the field from guides/instructors. It's a big piece of what we do on the technical side of things to mi...
Design
22 Jun 2019
Contributed by Lukas
I find this topic super interesting. Check the book I reference.
Techtalk #9 Le Piolet
15 Jun 2019
Contributed by Lukas
One of the fundamental tools we use in the mountains.
Fundamentals
14 Jun 2019
Contributed by Lukas
It's easy to want to skip the basics and move on to more advanced skills. Don't do it!
Risk and Reward
14 Jun 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Something I evaluate a lot.
Techtalk #3 Plaquettes
08 Jun 2019
Contributed by Lukas
These are awesome tools that have a fair amount of nuance.
Multitasking
08 Jun 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Just like texting and driving is really dangerous multitasking while guiding can also increase our hazard.
Techtalk #8 The Universal Up to Down Transition using Parallel
07 Jun 2019
Contributed by Lukas
There are many transitions. This works well and has a lot of advantages for both the guide and client.
Techtalk #7 Caterpillar, Parallel, End Roping
07 Jun 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Some thoughts on where and why we may use these techniques. Most people think about these as multi pitch skills but they can be used in single pitch t...
Terrain Revisited
06 Jun 2019
Contributed by Lukas
I felt I needed to add another episode on this really important piece of guiding.
Techtalk #6 Pacing
03 Jun 2019
Contributed by Lukas
A super important topic. Sometimes we can use technical systems to affect pacing.
Look for the solution not the problem
02 Jun 2019
Contributed by Lukas
A simple truth.
Techtalk #5 N Anchor
31 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
This is a legitimate but often overused and sometimes misused anchor system.
Big Data
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
As the world is rapidly moving forward sometimes we loose site of more basic fundamental skills. All the new tools and data are awesome but only when ...
Stewardship
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
I feel this concept is not always thought about in it's greatest scope.
The Complexity in Simplicity
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
This sounds like a contradiction but when you dig deeper you see the truth in it.
Techtalk #4 Short roping/pitching
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
I originally wanted to do a two part series on this topic. This is the first part. There may be another to follow at some point. These are easy skills...
Predictability
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Listen in.
Efficiency
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
This is often a misunderstood concept.
Logic and Balance
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
If you look at concepts and systems with an eye to logic you find places/systems where we contradict ourselves. I think each system/day should have a ...
Elongation and Fall Line Management
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
I call rope elongation the silent killer. Most people don't understand how rope stretch in their systems can often introduce risk. Careful understandi...
Precision and Accuracy
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
People often get these two terms confused.
Vision
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
I find this concept to be really important for me.
Finish the Task
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
I find that many guides want to jump ahead to the next step before they have finished what they are doing. This often opens them up to risk because so...
Resource Management and Intent
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Concepts worth thinking about.
Rope Handling
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
This is such a fundamental part of any disciple that use rope. It seems so basic yet people's ability to simply and efficiently handle rope is going a...
Terrain
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Terrain is one of the most fundamental pieces of our jobs as guides. How do we position ourselves, move through, mitigate, and work with it?
Pixels
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
I use the analogy of pixels in a digital picture as a framework for risk management and creating experiences for clients.
Techtalk #2 Munter Hitch
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
The Munter hitch is a wonderful tool that has many applications. It's something every climber should know.
Checklists
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Checklists are important tools that have been used in the medical profession and in aviation to help facilitate decisions and not to skip steps that m...
Are we Lucky or Are we Good?
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Reflecting on how luck plays a role in our outcomes vs pure skill/decision making is important. It allows us to start to understand what we really hav...
Professionalism
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Sometimes it's a good idea to look deeper into the terms we use to describe ourselves and see if we can figure out what these terms really mean.
White Belt
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Some reflection.
Techtalk #1 Overhand and Figure 8 on a Bight, 2 Loop Figure 8, BFK
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Techtalks focus more specifically on tools and techniques. This about some of the fundamental knots we use.
Mentorship
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Mentorship is one of the oldest pieces of the process of learning and a necessity for ones development.
Learning
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
I am constantly thinking about how we learn and how to teach. Even though this is an on going process I have noticed some trends.
Trust
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
This is an older voice memo but it covers an important topic and lays the foundation for some of my more current talks.
Why we Guide
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
My follow up to the Why are You Doing This podcast.
Why are You Doing This?
20 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Have you ever asked yourself why you want to be a guide?
Introduction
19 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
A brief introduction to who I am and what this podcast is about.
The Process of Lifelong Learning
19 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Thoughts on being open to lifelong learning.