The Average Climber Podcast
Episodes
Episode 46: āthe 30 day ruleā, acquiring new skills outside and in the gym with Karly Rager
14 Dec 2023
Contributed by Lukas
There's a good chance there's a type of climbing you refer to as an "anti-style".Whether it's slopers, steeps, slabs, or crimps - we'd bet there's a c...
SNACK BREAK: āHappy Holidays! do you feel guilty enough yet?ā the holiday pep talk you didnāt know you needed
07 Dec 2023
Contributed by Lukas
The most wonderful time of the year? In some ways it is. And in other ways it can be the most challenging. Whether you're facing grief, difficult fami...
INTRODUCING WRITTEN IN STONE: Lynn Hill reaches Critical Mass
30 Nov 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Hey there Average Climber - our crew is taking a break this week! We'll be back for more next week, in the meantime, check out episode one of Written ...
SNACK BREAK: Lauren + Caitlinās Black Friday Extravaganza
24 Nov 2023
Contributed by Lukas
If you're like us, you LOVE bragging to your friends about what a great deal you got on something. So allow us to give you the opportunity to get some...
Episode 45: āthe feel bad yoyoā, ten signs you need to take your training + nutrition more seriously
16 Nov 2023
Contributed by Lukas
If you've ever thought "gosh I wish I could send that grade faster, there's so many climbs I could do." or you've pondered what it would be like to st...
SNACK BREAK: How to climb more dynamically (and stop climbing like a sloth all the time)
16 Nov 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Do big moves have you stumped? Do you get stuck when you have to huck yourself around on an overhang? Is static, balance-ey climbing your only happy p...
Episode 44: Six nutrition struggles youāll face when starting a new training program, āserial killers eat candy cornā
02 Nov 2023
Contributed by Lukas
You start a new training plan. You're so excited. You're ready to buckle down. Everything is going to be great! And then, some unexpected roadblocks p...
Plug Tone Presents: Written in Stone [TRAILER]
27 Oct 2023
Contributed by Lukas
We have a special treat for you on our feed today - a trailer for Plug Tone's newest show, Written In Stone, climbing's most important ascents. Here's...
SNACK BREAK: Caitlinās Big Reveal
26 Oct 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Caitlin has some big news to share with us, and you're going to have to listen to find out because we're not telling you what it is in the show notes!...
Episode 43: āBangs are an adult haircutā, 10 things we wish we knew one year into climbing
19 Oct 2023
Contributed by Lukas
We're throwing it back to the start of our climbing careers. From the way we trained, to our attitudes, to our haircuts - there is a LOT that we've le...
SNACK BREAK: Solving 8 of your most frustrating footwork struggles
05 Oct 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Whether the foot holds are too high, too low, too slippery, or challenging in other ways, footwork can pose a variety of challenges in climbing. In th...
Episode 42: āDo you need to go full wumbo?ā, impacts on athletic performance, a climberās take on intermittent fasting [pt. 2]
28 Sep 2023
Contributed by Lukas
In part one of our series on intermittent fasting, we looked at the pros and cons of time restricted eating for general health. However, general healt...
SNACK BREAK: Should climbers use creatine?
21 Sep 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Did you know that creatine is one of theĀ most studied supplements? Or that it can help increase your capacity for high power activity *ahem, rock cli...
Episode 41: āIām not playing dodgeball on an empty stomachā, a climberās take on intermittent fasting [pt. 1]
14 Sep 2023
Contributed by Lukas
The information around intermittent fasting is as voluminous as it is confusing. Some health professionals tout it as a Holy Grail for health and long...
Snack Break: avoiding tick list overwhelm, a guided exercise for planning your next climbing trip
07 Sep 2023
Contributed by Lukas
So little time so many climbs. The ever-present struggle when you find yourself on a climbing trip. Add in that your friends probably don't want to do...
Episode 40: āThe red holds are universally hatedā, our thoughts, tips, and strategies for climbing better on the Moonboard
30 Aug 2023
Contributed by Lukas
If the moonboard were in the cast of Mean Girls - no questions asked, it'd be Regina George. People love it. People hate it. People are obsessed with ...
SNACK BREAK: How to warm up at a crag that doesnāt have warm-ups
24 Aug 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Whether you're projecting the easiest route on the wall, or you're headed to a boulder that's far away from all the other ones, sometimes you don't al...
Episode 39: āTake me to Kelsee Churchā, the intersection of mental health and climbing with licensed therapist, Kelsee Keitel
17 Aug 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Like it or not, your mental health impacts your climbing in more ways than you know. From how you deal with failure, to the ways you compare yourself ...
SNACK BREAK: Five things you need for a minimal and effective at-home strength set-up
27 Jul 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Fitting strength training in around climbing can be tough. You know what makes it tougher?Ā A commute to the gym. That's why, this episode will teach...
Episode 38: āmuscle building mugglesā, the top three ways youāre hindering muscle growth with Emily Smith, CNS
20 Jul 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Forget what those tabloids might say about "too much strength training making you bulky!" The truth is, gaining muscle doesn't happen by accident. It ...
Snack Break: Camp Cooking Listener Q&A
13 Jul 2023
Contributed by Lukas
This episode we're taking the time to help you with your questions and give you some tips to help with the woes of eating while camping. From non-peri...
Episode 37: the ultimate camping and climbing guide, 8 tips to climb your best and fuel well on camping trips, āIām gonna laminate some checklistsā
06 Jul 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Weekend climbing trips can be in-tents...... heh? get it? So in this episode, we're breaking down our top eight tips for maximizing your camping and c...
Snack Break: Good, better, best. A training strategy for chaos.
29 Jun 2023
Contributed by Lukas
In training you can get into virtuous cycles or vicious ones... And one of the most insidious cycles happens when you have an all or nothing mindset t...
Episode 36: Top 8 travel struggles of nutrition and training, āhow to survive a continental breakfastā
22 Jun 2023
Contributed by Lukas
When you're going on a trip (a non-climbing trip, that is) - whether it's a beachy getaway, a work conference, or you're headed to a family reunion; t...
SNACK BREAK: What you never learned about heel hooks
15 Jun 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Heel hooking: there's more to it than meets the eye - well, the foot?Ā Whatever. In this episode, you'll have your mind blown by the sneaking ways y...
Episode 35: The trap of perfect nutrition, embracing food freedom, and ānutrition nihilismā
08 Jun 2023
Contributed by Lukas
You might think you have a liberated mindset towards food, but do you? Do you really? In this episode we unpack the sneaky ways diet culture might be ...
Snack Break: Planning Your Nutrition around a Performance Objective
01 Jun 2023
Contributed by Lukas
If you started training two weeks before a climbing trip, we'd probably look at you a little funny... You might be surprised to know that you should l...
Episode 34: Flexible programming to fit your life, āNon-linear means āI love youā in rock climbingā
25 May 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Being a climber isnāt the same as being a competitive weight lifter. Or a marathon runner. So why would we train like it is? In this episode weā...
Snack Break: The Skill Work Your Training is Missing
18 May 2023
Contributed by Lukas
You might think you're doing this, but there's a good chance you actually aren't. What are we talking about? Deliberate practice. In this episode we d...
Episode 33: āWherever! Whenever!ā How to approach your training and nutrition with a seasonal mentality
11 May 2023
Contributed by Lukas
For some climbers - especially those who participate in multiple climbing disciplines - it can be tough to manage expectations. It might feel like you...
SNACK BREAK: 12 week endurance progressions for boulderers and sport climbers
04 May 2023
Contributed by Lukas
A continuation of our previous episode on endurance, we're digging into some more details about what endurance progression can look like over a 12 wee...
Episode 32: āendurance is the dramaā, what every climber needs to know about endurance
27 Apr 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Are you a boulderer wondering if endurance training even applies to you? Or maybe you're a sport climber seeking out ways to get better at being pumpe...
SNACK BREAK: Nutrition methods to improve your seasonal allergies
20 Apr 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Dreaming about outdoor climbing season? Excited to stand on a ridgeline looking at fields of wildflowers? Ready for more walks in the woods?Ā While ...
Episode 31: Life, Stress, and Progress with Chelsea Murn, āBusiness is the same as climbingā
13 Apr 2023
Contributed by Lukas
One of the biggest struggles we support athletes with is managing our relationship with climbing and training when life gets messy. It seems like we ...
Snack Break: Prepping for outdoor performance inside - crowds, fear, pressure, and tactics
06 Apr 2023
Contributed by Lukas
You probably want to climb your best when you go outdoors, but how can you prepare for the unique demands of outdoor climbing if you mainly have acces...
Episode 30: Protein Listener Q&A, ābeef it up!ā
30 Mar 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Whether you're a plant-based athlete or you're more of an omnivore, this weeks' episode is for you. We took your questions on protein and packed them ...
Snack Break: Smoothies 101, How to make a delightful, well-balanced smoothie
23 Mar 2023
Contributed by Lukas
When it comes to nutrition, the number of health-promoting foods you could consume in a day is pretty overwhelming. You need protein - but also carbs,...
Episode 29: Lessons in struggling with Ryan Devlin, The Struggle x Average Climber Crossover
16 Mar 2023
Contributed by Lukas
It's another Plug Tone Crossover Episode! Today we put Ryan Devlin, host of The Struggle Climbing Show in the hot seat. We discuss all that he's learn...
SNACK BREAK: Cold Weather Climbing Tips (Submitted by YOU!)
09 Mar 2023
Contributed by Lukas
In this Snack Break, we're crowdsourcing the best tips we received on climbing and training in the cold. From layering, to eating, to "whacky-but-it-w...
Episode 28: Cold Weather Climbing, āDinos in snowy climatesā
02 Mar 2023
Contributed by Lukas
On this episode of the we're talking send temps. Is the cold really ideal for sending? What nutritional changes do you need to make if it's cold? How ...
SNACK BREAK: Busting our top 3 snacking myths
23 Feb 2023
Contributed by Lukas
It's high time for some more myth busting and in this episode we're breaking down three common misconceptions about SNACKING. Is snacking good? Bad? S...
SNACK BREAK: What we learned in Hueco Tanks
09 Feb 2023
Contributed by Lukas
In January 2023, the gals took a trip to Hueco Tanks. Caitlin, the OG, showed Lauren around and visited old projects. Lauren on the other hand, got a ...
Episode 27: Six tips to crush your winter training cycle, āpeanut butter and donāt do thatā
02 Feb 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Many athletes pick a season for a solid 12 week long training cycle -- wintertime being a particularly popular time of year to train. In this episode,...
SNACK BREAK: The Training and Nutrition Combo, Breakthrough Group Coaching
26 Jan 2023
Contributed by Lukas
The next round of Breakthrough starts on February 20th. To get you in the know about all this program has to offer, we recorded an episode about it. T...
Episode 26: 4 things we wish climbers knew about building muscle
19 Jan 2023
Contributed by Lukas
What do you need to do to build muscle for climbing? Should you be putting on muscle at all? How does your nutrition need to change to build muscle? A...
Snack Break: Top 2 ways weāve changed our minds about goal setting
12 Jan 2023
Contributed by Lukas
It's that time of year again, where the entire internet is yelling at you to do better in the New Year. In the spirit of improvement, we want to share...
Episode 25: Strength Training Listener Q&A, āDo the Hokey Pokeyā
05 Jan 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Building strength supports your climbing. From mitigating injuries to helping you do hard moves, getting stronger will help you be a better climber an...
SNACK BREAK: 4 Holiday Tips for Navigating Training & Nutrition
22 Dec 2022
Contributed by Lukas
The media surrounding health and fitness always seems to take a turn for the toxic around this time of year. So in this Snack Break, we're clapping ba...
Episode 24: āAsking for a friendā, fear management and performing under pressure with Karly Rager
15 Dec 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Ever felt like your body could climb harder if your head wasn't getting in your way? If so, you aren't alone. Which is why this weeks' episode is all ...
SNACK BREAK: What nutrition pros wish you know about body composition
08 Dec 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In this snack break, we're featuring our honored guest Emily Smith MS, CNS, The Outdoor Nutritionist. Armed with the knowledge of not one, but TWO nut...
Episode 23: āBreathe and focus, you b*tchā, Top 6 Lessons we learned in Bishop
01 Dec 2022
Contributed by Lukas
We took ourselves a bouldering trip to Bishop and had a ton of fun. While the good times were rolling, we also learned some valuable lessons regarding...
SNACK BREAK: Celebrating our businesses + the Black Friday 411
25 Nov 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Join us on a brief tour of how we got started in running our own businesses. From lecture halls to dirt science, join us on the windy roads we took to...
Episode 22: āGloopy Goblin Caramels,ā Do you really need a coach for that?
17 Nov 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Whether it's your nutrition strategy or your training ambitions - you've probably asked yourself this question "Do I really need a coach for that?" Th...
SNACK BREAK: Three tips for longevity in climbing
10 Nov 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Our girl is turning 30 this month! So as Caitlin kisses her 20s goodbye we sit down to reflect on how we can continue to improve and support our climb...
Episode 21: āThrow the tiny stick,ā do you have a fear of failure?
03 Nov 2022
Contributed by Lukas
How's your relationship with failure? You might be surprised to find out. In this episode we dive deep into how your perspective on failure can impact...
SNACK BREAK: A bouldering trick and a nutrition treat
27 Oct 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Average Climber Pod: Halloween edition! This year we're bringing you a bouldering trick to for faster sending as well as a sports nutrition evaluation...
Episode 20: āCal-Garyā, The Top Ways Climbers are Holding Themselves back
20 Oct 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In this special edition episode, we're bringing in coaches Kris Hampton and Nate Drolet of the Power Company Podcast. We'll be discussing one of our f...
Episode 19: āPeas in a lineā, is this nutrition wagon right for you?
13 Oct 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In the second installment of our wagon series, we're taking a look at nutrition, answering the big question:Ā If you keep falling off the wagon, were...
SNACK BREAK: Finger-TIPS, nutrition for better skin health
06 Oct 2022
Contributed by Lukas
It's all fun and games until you run out of fingertips.... Climbing is hard enough when your skin isn't an issue, so when your tips start splitting an...
Episode 18: āMaintain your schoonerā, how to get back on the training wagon
15 Sep 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Striving for consistency and is great, but it isn't always realistic. Like it or not, there will be times in your life when climbing will take a backs...
SNACK BREAK: The pros and cons of projecting hard rock climbs
08 Sep 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode we're talking about trying hard and working on climbs that challenge you. What can you learn from trying a climb over many sessions? W...
Episode 17: All aboard the struggle bus, Top 4 struggles youāll face in your training and nutrition
01 Sep 2022
Contributed by Lukas
We all have them: struggles! You know, those things that make getting better at climbing a little harder than we'd like it to be. While we can't make ...
SNACK BREAK: BIG DIY ENERGY, Why the Average Climber Intensive is a dream for the self-coached climber
25 Aug 2022
Contributed by Lukas
On today's episode we're taking you on a journey. From what was once a lofty idea to what is now an exciting opportunity coming to life, we are so pum...
Episode 16: Plant-based athletes part 2, āCorn is the Ohio vegetableā, Complete Proteins & Listener Q&A
18 Aug 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In part 2 of our plant based series we're digging into the practical side of plant-based nutrition - AKA we're answering your questions on plant-based...
SNACK BREAK: Interpreting Plant-Based Nutrition Research. The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly
11 Aug 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Ever heard someone say "well the research says..." and then spout off something that sounds pretty f*ing crazy?Ā Yeah. Us too.Ā As much as we'd li...
Episode 15: Plant-based athletes part 1, āPlant-based Shoobiesā, the athletesā approach to a plant-based diet
04 Aug 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode we're giving all you plant-based athletes the tools you need to support your health and your athletic pursuits. We're talking protein,...
SNACK BREAK: Adjusting to a new climbing area, becoming more versatile, and nutrition tips for acclimating to higher altitudes
28 Jul 2022
Contributed by Lukas
We sit down to discuss something that perplexes many climbers: why grades can feel SO DIFFERENT when you go to a new crag, gym or climbing area. If yo...
Episode 14: Hangboarding Part 2, āThe fun way to hang on the edge of a boxā, programming, protocols, and how to get it done.
21 Jul 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Is it better to use a smaller edge or more weight? How do you know when it's time to progress your hangboard session? If these questions have ever kep...
SNACK BREAKS: Getting what you want out of strength training, demystifying sets & reps
14 Jul 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In this edition of Snack Breaks, we're giving you the quick and dirty run-down of how to structure your strength training for endurance, strength, or ...
Episode 13: Hangboarding Part 1, ā50 shades of hangboardingā, where to start and what you should know
07 Jul 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In this week's episode we sit down to set the record straight on one of the more confusing aspects of climbing training: the hangboard. Today we're la...
SNACK BREAKS: How to train with limited time, quick tips for the time-constrained athlete
30 Jun 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Let me guess, you want to train for climbing, but you don't feel like you have the time to do it. Maybe you're right... or maybe you could learn a few...
Episode 12: āEat kale every day or youāll dieā How to form sustainable habits
23 Jun 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode, we sit down to discuss the foundation of lasting changes in your training, nutrition and life in general: HABITS! From how to form th...
Episode 11: āThereās always a pizza shopā, Climbing Trip Listener Q&A
09 Jun 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In this week's episode we sat down to answer YOUR questions about going on climbing trips. From training to prepare, to eating on the road, and any lo...
Episode 10: āCalm down, crazy!ā, Caitlinās training consult for her return to sport climbing
26 May 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode, Caitlin sits down with Lauren ahead of her new training plan. In a surprising turn of events, Caitlin is temporarily leaving her pebb...
Episode 9: Check yourself before you wreck yourself, how to be your best self-coach
12 May 2022
Contributed by Lukas
On this week's episode we dive into self-coaching and discuss strategies for being your own best coach. From evaluating your technique to checking-in ...
Episode 8: Cool your jets, posture police! Healing climbing injuries with Kimmy Wiley and Drake Griggs
28 Apr 2022
Contributed by Lukas
On today's episode we get the real deal on injuries in climbing with Doctors of Physical Therapy, Kimmy Wiley and Drake Griggs. From posture to traini...
Episode 7.5: Apricots, dragons and some other $hit, taste testing āhealthyā alcohol
26 Apr 2022
Contributed by Lukas
On this episode we're helping you sort out your alcohol choices by answering a big question... are "athletic" or "healthy" alcohols THAT much better t...
Episode 7: Donāt Drink Everclear, how alcohol impacts training and performance
14 Apr 2022
Contributed by Lukas
On this episode we break down the impacts of alcohol on our athletic pursuits.... and we tell you how to mitigate the effects of alcohol on your climb...
Episode 6: PLASTIC AINāT ROCK, our top 8 tips for transitioning into outdoor climbing season.
31 Mar 2022
Contributed by Lukas
On this episode, the gals sit down to talk you through the ins and outs of transitioning back into outdoor climbing if you've been hanging around the ...
Episode 5: Special Average Snowflakes, adventures in individualized nutrition
17 Mar 2022
Contributed by Lukas
On today's episode Lauren sits down with Caitlin for some good 'ole fashioned nutrition coaching. The gals discuss the importance of breakfast, eating...
Episode 4: Rude Myths, top 10 training & nutrition fallacies that need to go extinct
03 Mar 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In these week's episode, we're busting myths and taking names. From the depths of uninformed nutrition to the wild extrapolations climbers make about ...
Episode 3: Sturdy Ice Cream & Dismantling Diet Culture
17 Feb 2022
Contributed by Lukas
On this week'sĀ episodeĀ of The Average Climber Podcast, weĀ excavate the sweet little lies we've all been fed for years - neigh, decades about food a...
Episode 2: Basics B*tch,The Fundamentals of Climbing Training You Need to Understand
03 Feb 2022
Contributed by Lukas
On this week's episode of The Average Climber Podcast, we're putting the FUN in fundamentals. Join us as we walkĀ you through the basics of climbing t...
Episode 1: KISS KISS BANG BANG, our top 10 ways to simplify your training and nutrition
20 Jan 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In our first full length episode, we are putting our collective noggins together to bring you our top tips for simplifying and streamlining both your ...
Episode 0: An Above Average Introduction
16 Dec 2021
Contributed by Lukas
Welcome to our inaugural episode. For this one, we're keeping things short and sweet, discussing: what an average climber is who this podcast is for w...