The Firn Line

Ridge of Madness I Part Two

17 Sep 2024

Contributed by Lukas

Following his grueling 145-day solo ascent of Mount Hunter's South East Spur in 1978, Johnny Waterman's life took a troubling turn. As his personal st...

Ridge of Madness I Part One

27 Aug 2024

Contributed by Lukas

In 1978, an iconoclastic climber named Johnny Waterman spent 145 days soloing (and traversing) Mount Hunter. It was one of the boldest and strangest m...

The Lost Tape: Roman Dial

06 Aug 2024

Contributed by Lukas

While working on an upcoming 2-part series, I stumbled onto this interview with Alaskan author and adventurer, Roman Dial. We recorded this back in No...

90 Pound Rucksack with Christian Beckwith

23 Jul 2024

Contributed by Lukas

A few months ago I had a conversation with climber, historian, writer and podcast producer, Christian Beckwith. He’s been working on this really inc...

5 Traits of an Alpinist

09 Jul 2024

Contributed by Lukas

A few weeks ago I interviewed North American alpinist, Clint Helander, for a deep-dive feature I'm working on for The Firn Line.  At the end of the c...

A Conversation with Will Stanhope

25 Jun 2024

Contributed by Lukas

Will Stanhope is a Squamish-based rock climber, who is known for his free solos, big adventures, and witty sense of humor. All of those avenues are ex...

The Cassin Ridge

11 Jun 2024

Contributed by Lukas

The Cassin Ridge is the ultimate classic line on Denali, rising almost 10,000 directly up the middle of the South Face. First climbed in 1961 by a lar...

Trip Report: The Moose's Tooth

28 May 2024

Contributed by Lukas

During a stretch of amazing weather and conditions in April, 2024, Suzanna Lourie and her partner, Olga Dobranowski, made an ascent of the ultra-class...

Land of The Forbidden

14 May 2024

Contributed by Lukas

When Fred Beckey and Ed Cooper climbed the Northwest Face on Forbidden Peak in 1959, they had to have known it was a classic route.  It had all the f...

A conversation with Lowell Skoog

23 Apr 2024

Contributed by Lukas

Today, we’ll get to know Seattle-based author, climber, skier, and historian, Lowell Skoog. Lowell is a fixture in the Northwest outdoor scene, and ...

The Emperor Face

02 Apr 2024

Contributed by Lukas

When Jamie Logan and Mugs Stump first ascended Mount Robson's Emperor Face in July 1978, it was hailed as one of North America's greatest alpine climb...

Full Moon Fever

03 Mar 2023

Contributed by Lukas

Begguya - Mount hunter - at 14,537 feet tall - a massif that is dominated in scale by its neighbors Sultana and Denali - but a mountain that dominates...

Dangerous Liaisons

30 Dec 2022

Contributed by Lukas

In the summer of 1995, John Climaco and Andrew Brash were young dirtbag alpinists looking for the adventure of a lifetime.  The duo certainly got tha...

Around The Heart Of The Alaska Range

14 Aug 2022

Contributed by Lukas

For mountaineers and adventurers, there’s a rich history of exploration in and around Alaska's Denali National Park.  And although the park is most...

Larger Than Life: Daryl Miller

05 Jul 2022

Contributed by Lukas

You know that saying - “they just don’t make em’ the way they used to”.  I guess you could call it a quintessential American expression.  In...

The Northwest Face of Kichatna Spire

19 Jun 2022

Contributed by Lukas

Today we head into the Kichatna Spires - a compact subrange of monolithic granite towers located just south of Denali.In early June, North American cl...

A Meeting With Bridwell

13 Jun 2022

Contributed by Lukas

NotesProduced by Evan PhillipsEditing & Sound Design by Pod PeakSupport The Firn LinePatreonPayPalMerchSponsorsAlaska Rock GymThe Hoarding Marmot

Rumble In The Chugach

05 Jun 2022

Contributed by Lukas

The western Chugach - the mountains surrounding Anchorage and the Mat-su valley to the east, are a veritable playground for hikers and climbers.  Alt...

Book Report: Valley Of Giants

01 May 2022

Contributed by Lukas

Call me old school, but nothing gets me more fired up than adding a new adventure, climbing or mountaineering book to the collection.  So I was excit...

Trip Report: The East Face of Golgotha

17 Apr 2022

Contributed by Lukas

This month’s trip report takes place in one of Alaska’s most remote and mythical mountain ranges: The Revelations.  First explored in the late 60...

A Conversation with Vasu Sojitra

10 Apr 2022

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know backcountry skier, advocate and adaptive athlete, Vasu Sojitra.  When Vasu was just 9 mont...

Trip Report: The Alaska Wilderness Classic

20 Mar 2022

Contributed by Lukas

They say that Alaska is a place of extremes.  This ranges from the stark changing of the seasons, to the scale of the wilderness landscapes, and of c...

Vertical Quest: Topher Donahue

06 Mar 2022

Contributed by Lukas

It was the summer of 1996.  At the time, I was 21 years old, living in a primitive cabin in the small fishing village of Ninilchik, Alaska.  That su...

Trip Report: Adventure(s) on Mount Wickersham

20 Feb 2022

Contributed by Lukas

Adam Gellman, a young glacier guide, tells the story of his adventures on an obscure (but challenging) Alaskan peak called Mt. Wickersham.This Trip Re...

A Conversation with Miranda Oakley

06 Feb 2022

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know rock climber, big-wall soloist and AMGA certified rock climbing guide, Miranda Oakley. Gro...

The Trip Report - An Open Invitation

25 Jan 2022

Contributed by Lukas

Hey Firn Line fans, this is Evan, and I wanted to tell you about a new monthly series I’m launching called The Trip Report.  Storytelling is an int...

Trip Report: Oberon (Valdez, AK)

16 Jan 2022

Contributed by Lukas

When people think of ice climbing in North America, the first places that might come to mind are Ouray, Colorado, Hyalite Canyon outside Bozeman, Mont...

Life Lived Wild: Rick Ridgeway

02 Jan 2022

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary mountaineer, outdoor adventurer, author and conservationist, Rick Ridgeway.  I f...

Deep Knowledge: Jon Walsh

15 Mar 2021

Contributed by Lukas

The mountain ranges of North America are beautiful and diverse.  From the prominent glacier cones that dominate the skylines of the Pacific Northwest...

Emma Walker's Dead Reckoning

07 Mar 2021

Contributed by Lukas

It’s easier to stay alive if you know what’s out there.  Whether it’s understanding local climate patterns, snow conditions, or predators that ...

A Conversation With Kelly Cordes

31 Dec 2020

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn LIne, we’ll get to know climber, alpinist and author, Kelly Cordes.  I first heard of Kelly back in the mid-90’s...

Chris Kalman's 'Dammed If You Don't'

30 Nov 2020

Contributed by Lukas

In this episode of The Firn Line, I check in with author and climber, Chris Kalman.  I first met Chris after reading his excellent book, As Above So ...

Tales From The Firn Line - Volume One

30 Oct 2020

Contributed by Lukas

The Snow CoffinEvan tells the story of a 1996 winter attempt, harrowing bivouac, and narrow escape from a remote Alaskan mountain.The Ghost Of Aconcag...

See You Soon

14 Oct 2020

Contributed by Lukas

A young Alaskan alpinist, August Franzen, shares his story of climbing through life-changing love, and heart-wrenching grief.  Links:The Devil's Thum...

The All-Arounder: Eddie Taylor

07 Sep 2020

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know climber, skier, high-school teacher and coach, Eddie Taylor.Eddie grew up in different part...

Challenge Of The Western Chugach

02 Aug 2020

Contributed by Lukas

Today’s episode is a story about adventure.  It’s a story about getting scared.   It’s a story of friendship and love.  It’s a story about ...

Fragments Of My Brother

05 Jul 2020

Contributed by Lukas

I first met Tom Sardy in the summer of 1998.  My recollection is that I was camped under the granite towers of Archangel Valley in Hatcher Pass, when...

A Conversation With Craig Muderlak

16 Jun 2020

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know northwest based artist and mountain guide - Craig Muderlak.  I first got to know Craig th...

Persistence: Steve Swenson

11 May 2020

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary North American alpinist, Steve Swenson.  Over the course of a climbing career t...

Doing The Work: Margo Talbot

20 Apr 2020

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know world-renowned climber and author, Margo Talbot.Growing up on the east coast of Canada in N...

Trip Report: Infinite Jester

07 Apr 2020

Contributed by Lukas

Last week I sat down for a remote chat with Valdez, Alaska-based ice climber, Ryan Sims. Ryan is an Engineer with the Valdez Fire Department, but when...

In It Together

29 Mar 2020

Contributed by Lukas

A check in with The Firn Line community during the Covid-19 pandemic. These conversations and clips were gathered between March 22-28, 2020.  Stay sa...

Fast Times at Yocum Ridge

23 Mar 2020

Contributed by Lukas

The Cascades of North America are a beautiful and diverse range of mountains. These peaks, which range from sharp, granitic towers, to glaciated and c...

The Lifer: Paul Gagner

21 Dec 2019

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of the firn line, we’ll get to know legendary rock climber and big wall ace, Paul Gagner. Growing up in southern California in ...

Rockies Wisdom: Barry Blanchard (Part 2)

01 Dec 2019

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll dive into the final segment of a two-part series with Canadian Rockies legend, Barry Blanchard.In the f...

Rockies Wisdom: Barry Blanchard (Part 1)

10 Nov 2019

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll delve into the first of a two-part series with Canadian Rockies legend, Barry Blanchard.Barry’s name ...

Red River Roots: Jason Tyler Burton

18 Oct 2019

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know songwriter, and mountain traveller, Jason Tyler Burton.Growing up in a working class family...

Alpine Progression: Mallorie Estenson

03 Oct 2019

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn line, we’ll get to know Pacific Northwest-based alpinist Mallorie Estenson. Growing up in the shadows of the North ...

Uphill Athlete: Steve House

06 Sep 2019

Contributed by Lukas

I first heard about Steve House in 1995 - when I was living at my family's cabin on Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula. I was 20 years old, working as a park ...

Uphill Athlete: Scott Johnston

30 Aug 2019

Contributed by Lukas

Training for the mountains has come a long way - even from when I started out in the early 90’s. Back then, the mantra was that actual climbing was ...

New Routes: Kjersti Gedde

08 Aug 2019

Contributed by Lukas

Have you ever been on a path, where it seemed like everything was lining up the way it should be - things were going smooth, your life felt perfect - ...

The Creative Path: Tony Perelli

19 Jul 2019

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know Alaskan-based wilderness adventurer, woodworker, potter and teacher, Tony Perelli.Tony grew...

The Bond: Simon McCartney

27 Jun 2019

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know alpinist and author, Simon McCartney. Back in the late 70’s - the norms of mountaineering...

A Conversation With Caroline Van Hemert

06 Jun 2019

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of the firn line, we’ll get to know author, biologist and wilderness adventurer, Caroline Van Hemert.Caroline has an impressive...

Ruth Gorge Grinder

16 May 2019

Contributed by Lukas

In April, 2019, alpinists Alan Rousseau and Jackson Marvell flew into the Ruth Gorge, intent on repeating "Blood From The Stone", arguably one of the ...

The Mountains In My Life

23 Apr 2019

Contributed by Lukas

With love to the families, friends and community surrounding Jess Roskelley, David Lama and Hansjörg Auer http://www.jessroskelley.com/ http://www.d...

Alaska Mountain Women

21 Mar 2019

Contributed by Lukas

AK Mountain Women is an all-female group that loves human powered expeditions in Alaska. The goal of the group is to cultivate a strong community of l...

The Life And Climbs Of Kevin Jorgeson

11 Jan 2019

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know professional rock climber, Kevin Jorgeson. Over a long and ever-evolving career, Jorgeson ...

A Conversation With Len Necefer

27 Dec 2018

Contributed by Lukas

In the final episode of 2018, I go back to a September conversation with climber, educator and activist, Len Necefer. Len holds a Ph.D in Engineering...

Wandering Writer: Chris Kalman

30 Nov 2018

Contributed by Lukas

Growing up in the suburbs of northern Virginia, Chris Kalman was exposed to academia and team sports from a young age.  But by the time he reached hi...

Open Book: Kathy Karlo

16 Nov 2018

Contributed by Lukas

If you’re a climber, who consumes climbing related media like writing, video and podcasts - well, chances are, you’ve heard of Kathy Karlo. • Ka...

Full Circle: Jon Waterman

25 Oct 2018

Contributed by Lukas

Like many young alpinists, my early experiences in and out of the mountains were defined by a succession of monumental highs tempered with desperate l...

Infinite Patience

11 Oct 2018

Contributed by Lukas

The Canadian Rockies are home to some of the most iconic alpine peaks in North America. Mountains like Alberta, Columbia, Edith Cavell and North Twin...

Learning To Fly: Pryce Brown

20 Sep 2018

Contributed by Lukas

Growing up in the coastal town of Cordova, Alaska - Pryce Brown was exposed to the vast beauty of Alaska from a young age. Whether it was fishing, av...

The Quest: Malcolm Bass

06 Sep 2018

Contributed by Lukas

On today's episode of The Firn Line, we'll get to know UK-based alpinist, Malcolm Bass.  Over the course of a 30 year alpine career, Malcolm has push...

Shades Of The North Cascades: Nikki Frumkin

23 Aug 2018

Contributed by Lukas

If you’ve ever spent time flying over, or travelling thru the pacific northwest, you’ve most-likely been taken by the monolithic glacier-capped vo...

Backcountry Master: Noah Howell

26 Jul 2018

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary backcountry skier, Noah Howell. • In an epic career spanning over 20 years, How...

A Conversation With David Lama

09 Jul 2018

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know world-renowned and visionary alpinist, David Lama. • The son of Nepalese and Austrian par...

Finding Patagonia: Nancy Pfeiffer

22 Jun 2018

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary Alaskan outdoorswoman, and wilderness educator, Nancy Pfeiffer. I first heard na...

The Revelator: Eric Parsons

07 Jun 2018

Contributed by Lukas

Every mountaineer has a favorite mountain range, a place that for whatever reason centers them, gives them a piece of mind, creates a sense of belongi...

New Terrain: Adam Campbell

18 May 2018

Contributed by Lukas

Growing up in the west African country of Nigeria, Adam was drawn to movement and athletics from a young age, whether it was team sports like soccer, ...

Seeking The Sublime: Klara Maisch

03 May 2018

Contributed by Lukas

Alaska is a vast and wild place; a constant fluctuation of movement and changing landscapes.  Rugged mountains are carved by massive, chaotic glacier...

Alaska Vibes: Conrad Anker

20 Apr 2018

Contributed by Lukas

Over the course of an distinguished 30+ year career, Conrad Anker’s adventures have taken him from the bigwalls of Yosemite, to the icy flanks of Th...

The Spaces Between: Ryan Johnson

01 Apr 2018

Contributed by Lukas

Sometime in the days after March 5, 2018 Ryan and his partner, the brilliant Marc Andre Leclerc, lost their lives after completing the stunning first ...

A Conversation with Joe Stock

08 Mar 2018

Contributed by Lukas

On this special bonus episode of The Firn Line, I sit down with Alaska-based mountain and backcountry ski guide Joe Stock. I first met Joe on the Kah...

Desert Delusions: Friendship and Failure on The Thunderbird Wall

14 Feb 2018

Contributed by Lukas

In March 1999 I found myself wedged in a sandy chimney, fully-gripped and trembling, five hundred feet off the deck. Me and my partner Scott were atte...

Alaska Roots: Danielle Varney

28 Jan 2018

Contributed by Lukas

Growing up in the Yupik village of St. Marys, Danielle Varney was raised on a steady diet of winter camping, and long summer days spent working on the...

The Firn Line "Live": Roman Dial

11 Jan 2018

Contributed by Lukas

On December 2, 2017, I had the great privilege to sit down in front of a live audience at the Alaska Rock Gym, and talk with renowned Alaskan alpinist...

Short Ropes: Podcasting Is Like Climbing

30 Dec 2017

Contributed by Lukas

On episode 20, I look back on 2017 and season one of The Firn Line, and give thanks to all the folks who have been with me along the way. Also, we he...

Commitment, Vision, Trust: Jack Tackle (Part 2)

14 Dec 2017

Contributed by Lukas

Many years ago, I saw Jack Tackle give a slideshow in Anchorage. I was in my early to mid-twenties at the time, and mountain climbing was the only th...

Commitment, Vision, Trust: Jack Tackle (Part 1)

30 Nov 2017

Contributed by Lukas

On episode 18, we’ll delve into the first of a two-part series with venerable North American alpinist, Jack Tackle. With his unmistakable baritone ...

A Higher Calling: Brad Meiklejohn

16 Nov 2017

Contributed by Lukas

It’s no accident that Brad Meiklejohn makes his home in a beautiful alpine valley outside of Anchorage, Alaska.  An avid pack rafter, climber and s...

Short Ropes: Committed On The Cassin

02 Nov 2017

Contributed by Lukas

In June 2017, Aaron Kurland and Sam Novey planned to attempt the formidable and rarely-climbed Father and Sons wall, but when they found the face to b...

Denali Dreams: Vern Tejas

06 Oct 2017

Contributed by Lukas

When I was a kid growing up in Alaska, Vern Tejas was one of my heroes. Back in February of 1988, Tejas made the bold first solo winter ascent of Den...

Short Ropes: Ashley Saupe

21 Sep 2017

Contributed by Lukas

A few weeks ago I got to sit down with outdoor educator and host of the excellent 'The Sharp End' podcast, Ashley Saupe. We talked about her upbring...

Mindful Mountaineer: Sam Johnson

08 Sep 2017

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode, we’ll get to know Alaskan alpinist Sam Johnson. Growing up in the foothills of the Chugach Mountains, Sam was exposed to the ...

Short Ropes: Tobin's Tales

24 Aug 2017

Contributed by Lukas

On this episode of Short Ropes, we revisit my conversation with legendary Alaskan alpinist Carl Tobin (See episode 11). • Tobin’s climbs in Alaska...

Mountain Memories: Carl Tobin

11 Aug 2017

Contributed by Lukas

On today’s episode, we’ll get to know legendary Alaskan alpinist Carl Tobin. With an alpine career that has spanned over 40 years, Tobin continues...

Short Ropes: Mixed Master Vol. 1

21 Jul 2017

Contributed by Lukas

I first came up with the idea to do The Firn Line in September 2016 - really not that long ago when you think about it.  I think the truth is that i’...

The Search: Graham Zimmerman

06 Jul 2017

Contributed by Lukas

From a young age, Graham Zimmerman was inspired by the rugged peaks of the New Zealand alps, and later, the cascades of Washington and the pacific nor...

Short Ropes: Katie's Micro-Expeditions

22 Jun 2017

Contributed by Lukas

Last month I sat down to chat with Alaskan climber and mountain explorer Katie Strong. Katie is an ambitious adventurer, as well as a driven environme...

The Power Of Being Human: Luc Mehl

08 Jun 2017

Contributed by Lukas

Growing up in the village of McGrath, Luc Mehl was inspired at a young age by the simplicity of rural living, and the vast Alaskan wilderness surround...

Short Ropes: The Risk Of Commitment

17 May 2017

Contributed by Lukas

Nestled in the heart of the Alaska Range, lies what many believe to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the world: Mount Huntington. Rising on ...

Alaska Ranger: Mark Westman

04 May 2017

Contributed by Lukas

Mark Westman is one of Alaska's most prolific alpinists. On Denali alone, Westman has climbed a myriad of monumental routes including the Cassin Ridg...

Short Ropes: Chitistone Chuckles

20 Apr 2017

Contributed by Lukas

Cover: Dustin Eroh leads Blackbird Falls in Chitina, Alaska (Photo: Andrew Burr) In February, 2016 Dusty Eroh, Andrew Burr, Scott Adamson and Todd Tum...

Life Revelations: Clint Helander

06 Apr 2017

Contributed by Lukas

Clint Helander left home at 18 years old, hoping to escape a tense relationship with his mother, and to start finding his own way through life. When ...

Short Ropes: Makalu Mantras

17 Mar 2017

Contributed by Lukas

In this follow up to episode 01, Alaksan alpinist Charlie Sassara talks about attempting the west pillar of Makalu in 1984, as well as his transition ...

The Expression Of Climbing: Charlie Sassara

02 Mar 2017

Contributed by Lukas

Growing up in the wilds of Alaska, Charlie Sassara always yearned for adventure. But it wasn't until he found the "expression" of climbing that his li...