炉肉也叫烤方、挂炉肉、响皮肉烤方、挂炉肉、响皮肉其实都是炉肉的别名，老北京60岁以下的人，听说过的已经不多了，吃过的就更是寥寥。这边说起“炉肉”时眉飞色舞，那边不少人则听成“驴肉”，还觉得莫名其妙。 炉肉，又称“烤方”、“挂炉肉”、“响皮肉”，老北京传统名菜，是久已绝迹的美味。乾隆年间潘荣陛所著《帝京岁时记胜》“八月”“时品”条中就记有“南炉鸭、烧小猪、挂炉肉。”，此处的南炉鸭指的就是现在的烤鸭，取小猪烤之，则为烧小猪，其不用小猪者，名为炉肉。当时使用的地炉又称“焖炉”，后改“叉烧”，然后发展为“挂炉”，所以旧时（直到解放前）烤鸭店俗称“炉肉铺”或“鸡鸭行”，全聚德烤鸭店现保留的光绪14年所建老店门面左上方砖刻“老炉铺”依然醒目。《帝京岁时记胜》又记“中秋桂饼之外，则……烧小猪、挂炉肉”。说明炉肉不但与烤鸭齐名，且清代时即为立秋-中秋时品。
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