Casey Liss

And my answer was yes. I could tell the difference in a blind test of which was which. And I liked the Adobe RGB one better. So be aware that when saving Adobe RGB to JPEG and you have smooth gradients, maybe banding is an issue. But I personally haven't seen it, and I'm sticking with Adobe RGB.

Well, so here's the thing with what these features do. First of all, night shift is the thing that makes it look like someone peed on your screen at night. I would suggest turning that off. It makes everything warmer on your screen at nighttime to try to like reduce the amount of blue light you're being faced with and make you feel nice and cozy, right?

Well, so here's the thing with what these features do. First of all, night shift is the thing that makes it look like someone peed on your screen at night. I would suggest turning that off. It makes everything warmer on your screen at nighttime to try to like reduce the amount of blue light you're being faced with and make you feel nice and cozy, right?

Lots of people like that feature, but if you're editing photos, I would strongly suggest to disable night shift because that is intentionally changing the color balance of your screen in a way that you will notice. Like that's the whole point. It's supposed to look warmer to you. So don't do that if you want to get an idea of what your colors look like.

Lots of people like that feature, but if you're editing photos, I would strongly suggest to disable night shift because that is intentionally changing the color balance of your screen in a way that you will notice. Like that's the whole point. It's supposed to look warmer to you. So don't do that if you want to get an idea of what your colors look like.

True Tone is Apple's feature where the hardware has a sensor on it that senses the ambient light in the room and how warm that is. And then based on what that sensor sees, it adjusts the image to try to essentially match the white balance of the room.

True Tone is Apple's feature where the hardware has a sensor on it that senses the ambient light in the room and how warm that is. And then based on what that sensor sees, it adjusts the image to try to essentially match the white balance of the room.

So if you're in a room with very warm lighting, it's not going to leave the monitor the same because the monitor will look really, the whites will look very blue compared to the ambient light that is much warmer in the room. Instead, they will warm the monitor up to match the color temperature of the ambient light. I personally leave True Tone on, which is not the quote-unquote pro thing to do.

So if you're in a room with very warm lighting, it's not going to leave the monitor the same because the monitor will look really, the whites will look very blue compared to the ambient light that is much warmer in the room. Instead, they will warm the monitor up to match the color temperature of the ambient light. I personally leave True Tone on, which is not the quote-unquote pro thing to do.

Pros should be working in a completely dark room with their monitor perfectly calibrated by hardware to be exactly at a D65 white point. Like, I'm not doing that. I leave True Tone on.

Pros should be working in a completely dark room with their monitor perfectly calibrated by hardware to be exactly at a D65 white point. Like, I'm not doing that. I leave True Tone on.

And the reason I leave True Tone on is because I know I'm in a room with a bunch of lights that do not have the quote-unquote the right color temperature, and I want my display to adjust itself so that it matches the color temperature in the room so the adjustments I make quote-unquote look right to me in this room, in this lighting.

And the reason I leave True Tone on is because I know I'm in a room with a bunch of lights that do not have the quote-unquote the right color temperature, and I want my display to adjust itself so that it matches the color temperature in the room so the adjustments I make quote-unquote look right to me in this room, in this lighting.

So when I see them in a different room, in different lighting, they'll still look right. I don't know if that's foolish, but I don't really care because that's just what I do with my pictures, and they look good to me, and I print them in books, and they look good in the books, and when I see them in the books, I don't think to myself, wow, that looks way different than it did in my monitor.

So when I see them in a different room, in different lighting, they'll still look right. I don't know if that's foolish, but I don't really care because that's just what I do with my pictures, and they look good to me, and I print them in books, and they look good in the books, and when I see them in the books, I don't think to myself, wow, that looks way different than it did in my monitor.

Instead, I think, wow, that looks exactly like it did in my monitor. So I say night shift off, True Tone on.

Instead, I think, wow, that looks exactly like it did in my monitor. So I say night shift off, True Tone on.

I'm not sure if it's weaker, because if you bathed it in super-duper warm light, I think it would adjust it. What it's trying to do is make it look white to you. In this room, this sheet of paper... It's actually very yellow because the light is yellow. And if you have very, very yellow lights, that sheet of paper is objectively yellow.

I'm not sure if it's weaker, because if you bathed it in super-duper warm light, I think it would adjust it. What it's trying to do is make it look white to you. In this room, this sheet of paper... It's actually very yellow because the light is yellow. And if you have very, very yellow lights, that sheet of paper is objectively yellow.

But to your eyes, that sheet of paper still looks white because you know it's white and your brain adjusts for it or whatever. And what True Tone is trying to do is say, hey, when you hold that piece of paper in the ambient light of the room up to your monitor, I want the white of that paper to match the white on the screen.