Chris Walker

Yeah, I like it better. With revenues crossing 350 million in 1987, over 51 wineries jumped on the white Zin train, making it California's top exported wine. This meant wineries needed as much of the Rosé's namesake grape, Zinfandel, as they could possibly get their hands on. And the reality was, demands for all kinds of grapes were shooting up.

Yeah, I like it better. With revenues crossing 350 million in 1987, over 51 wineries jumped on the white Zin train, making it California's top exported wine. This meant wineries needed as much of the Rosé's namesake grape, Zinfandel, as they could possibly get their hands on. And the reality was, demands for all kinds of grapes were shooting up.

The entire industry thrived as Americans switched over from beer and cocktails to wine.

The entire industry thrived as Americans switched over from beer and cocktails to wine.

Newcomers wanted to try all of the Golden State's wines. But because of that buying spree, a grape shortage was causing real supply chain issues. Between 1975 and 1990, demand for all kinds of wine grapes increased fivefold. And while Sutter Home had avoided the run on Zinfandel by buying up grapes ahead of time, other wineries looked frantically for more fruit.

Newcomers wanted to try all of the Golden State's wines. But because of that buying spree, a grape shortage was causing real supply chain issues. Between 1975 and 1990, demand for all kinds of wine grapes increased fivefold. And while Sutter Home had avoided the run on Zinfandel by buying up grapes ahead of time, other wineries looked frantically for more fruit.

But for those in the know, there was a guy that you could turn to during an unprecedented grape crunch, someone with the power to solve the industry's supply chain problems. What the casual drinker might not realize is that the winemaker listed on a bottle doesn't necessarily grow their own grapes. To get all the fruit they need to make wine, many vintners buy grapes from independent farmers.

But for those in the know, there was a guy that you could turn to during an unprecedented grape crunch, someone with the power to solve the industry's supply chain problems. What the casual drinker might not realize is that the winemaker listed on a bottle doesn't necessarily grow their own grapes. To get all the fruit they need to make wine, many vintners buy grapes from independent farmers.

And to negotiate those deals, they need a middleman, a master dealmaker, a skilled arbitrator known as a grape broker. In the 1980s, there was perhaps no better connected grape broker in California than a guy by the name of Jack Lichardi.

And to negotiate those deals, they need a middleman, a master dealmaker, a skilled arbitrator known as a grape broker. In the 1980s, there was perhaps no better connected grape broker in California than a guy by the name of Jack Lichardi.

Think of him as the godfather of grapes, a man who knew California's vineyards like the back of his hand and whose grape deals could make or break a winery when he decided what parts of the state got grapes and which ones didn't. At a time when California was trying to become the go-to spot around the world for wine, he had the opportunity to be the hero California needed.

Think of him as the godfather of grapes, a man who knew California's vineyards like the back of his hand and whose grape deals could make or break a winery when he decided what parts of the state got grapes and which ones didn't. At a time when California was trying to become the go-to spot around the world for wine, he had the opportunity to be the hero California needed.

But there was also a chance that he might also be its villain. Because when evidence emerged of widespread grape mislabeling infiltrating California's wineries, it occurred to federal investigators that Jack was in precisely the right position to orchestrate such a scam. Tips, rumors, and stakeouts all pointed to Jack's company.

But there was also a chance that he might also be its villain. Because when evidence emerged of widespread grape mislabeling infiltrating California's wineries, it occurred to federal investigators that Jack was in precisely the right position to orchestrate such a scam. Tips, rumors, and stakeouts all pointed to Jack's company.

And so before any more false grapes ended up in California's bottles, before any word of fraud got out that sullied California's reputation or momentum, the feds needed to find out what Jack and his company were really up to. I'm Chris Walker, your guide in this series about the largest grape fraud in U.S.

And so before any more false grapes ended up in California's bottles, before any word of fraud got out that sullied California's reputation or momentum, the feds needed to find out what Jack and his company were really up to. I'm Chris Walker, your guide in this series about the largest grape fraud in U.S.

history, the powerful family at the center of it, and how a stunning sequence of betrayals triggered the fall of a California dynasty and forever changed the way we make wine in America. From Foxopus Inc., this is Blood Vines. It had taken federal prosecutor Steve Lapham some digging to land on Jack Licciardi's name.

history, the powerful family at the center of it, and how a stunning sequence of betrayals triggered the fall of a California dynasty and forever changed the way we make wine in America. From Foxopus Inc., this is Blood Vines. It had taken federal prosecutor Steve Lapham some digging to land on Jack Licciardi's name.

It was still about 36 months before any bodies turned up, and some of his counterparts at the ATF still thought this case was too low stakes to pursue. Wines having slightly different grapes in them. It was still wine, right? What was the harm? But Lapham saw a bigger picture. He knew that grape mislabeling was affecting the entire industry.

It was still about 36 months before any bodies turned up, and some of his counterparts at the ATF still thought this case was too low stakes to pursue. Wines having slightly different grapes in them. It was still wine, right? What was the harm? But Lapham saw a bigger picture. He knew that grape mislabeling was affecting the entire industry.