Chris Walker

And even while he was grappling with the implications, he learned of falsified grape shipments landing at a winery where a guy named Michael Licciardi handled the deliveries. It didn't take much detective work to figure out that Michael's father, Jack Licciardi, was the real impresario of the delivery business, Corvette Company.

And even while he was grappling with the implications, he learned of falsified grape shipments landing at a winery where a guy named Michael Licciardi handled the deliveries. It didn't take much detective work to figure out that Michael's father, Jack Licciardi, was the real impresario of the delivery business, Corvette Company.

Michael's own nickname, Jack's Legs, betrayed his status because his authority came through his dad.

Michael's own nickname, Jack's Legs, betrayed his status because his authority came through his dad.

That's $10 million per year, or accounting for inflation, about $26 million in today's dollars. Lots of money flowed through the Lichardi's business, along with nearly unfathomable volumes of fruit. Lapham thought Lichardi could be key to the whole thing. As soon as the prosecutor started asking around, he began to hear lots of strong impressions of the man.

That's $10 million per year, or accounting for inflation, about $26 million in today's dollars. Lots of money flowed through the Lichardi's business, along with nearly unfathomable volumes of fruit. Lapham thought Lichardi could be key to the whole thing. As soon as the prosecutor started asking around, he began to hear lots of strong impressions of the man.

California's wine industry has always been incredibly tight-knit. Seemed like everyone knew each other. That's still true today. In my own reporting, whenever I mentioned Jack Licciardi, people in the business told me there was one guy I needed to talk to, a guy who knew Jack on the level and might be my best chance of getting an insider's sense for California's grape king and his ascent to power.

California's wine industry has always been incredibly tight-knit. Seemed like everyone knew each other. That's still true today. In my own reporting, whenever I mentioned Jack Licciardi, people in the business told me there was one guy I needed to talk to, a guy who knew Jack on the level and might be my best chance of getting an insider's sense for California's grape king and his ascent to power.

Anthony Scotto Jr. is a fourth-generation winemaker.

Anthony Scotto Jr. is a fourth-generation winemaker.

And in the 1980s, one of those old-timers was Jack Licciardi. Scotto first heard about Jack through his dad, who, like everyone, had done deals with the legendary grape broker. Everybody...

And in the 1980s, one of those old-timers was Jack Licciardi. Scotto first heard about Jack through his dad, who, like everyone, had done deals with the legendary grape broker. Everybody...

And Jack's experience putting such deals together went back decades. He was a contemporary of Ernest and Julie O'Gallow. The California brothers who built the world's largest winery, which today produces almost a billion bottles annually.

And Jack's experience putting such deals together went back decades. He was a contemporary of Ernest and Julie O'Gallow. The California brothers who built the world's largest winery, which today produces almost a billion bottles annually.

After all, Jack had grown up around them. His parents had immigrated to the United States from Sicily around the turn of the century, and after the Licciardi family moved to California, Jack learned the ins and outs of viticulture. Over the decades, the grape broker earned respect.

After all, Jack had grown up around them. His parents had immigrated to the United States from Sicily around the turn of the century, and after the Licciardi family moved to California, Jack learned the ins and outs of viticulture. Over the decades, the grape broker earned respect.

Part of it was his uncanny knack for predicting wine trends, in which he foresaw what grape varieties farmers should plant months, years, or decades before harvest.

Part of it was his uncanny knack for predicting wine trends, in which he foresaw what grape varieties farmers should plant months, years, or decades before harvest.

He was a no-nonsense businessman whose word was his bond. So long as you didn't cross Jack, you'd continue getting the fruit you needed. Winemakers conducted million-dollar deals with him over the phone without so much as a handshake. In fact, Scotto says his own father never met Jack despite 20 years of grape deals.

He was a no-nonsense businessman whose word was his bond. So long as you didn't cross Jack, you'd continue getting the fruit you needed. Winemakers conducted million-dollar deals with him over the phone without so much as a handshake. In fact, Scotto says his own father never met Jack despite 20 years of grape deals.