Gary Brecka
👤 SpeakerAppearances Over Time
Podcast Appearances
I wouldn't even look back for the ball.
And I could also feel the defender coming across the field to hit me.
And he said, at that one moment,
There was a feeling that I can't describe, but he said, I chased that moment like a rat to cheese.
It was better than any drug that I'd ever taken.
And I just craved that moment and I pushed out all the noise.
So when you were at the top of your surf game and you still are,
Was there that moment?
Did you feel like this oneness kind of with the ocean?
Was there something about surfing that you just didn't get from any other aspect of your life?
That's just so wild.
Oh, yeah, he was like a comedian LSD, kind of the vulgar guy.
Dennis Leary, okay.
That's crazy.
There's got to be a time though when you're dropping, you know, down into a wave.
I mean, you've felt the sheer power of the ocean.
I mean, I'm sure you've been pummeled by waves before.
Of course.
And, you know, some of these waves are 50, 60, 70 feet tall and you're on a board.
What is it?