Joel Parkinson

We all struggle, you know.

It's not just getting a wave.

It's sometimes the worst part.

Getting the wave sometimes is easier than when you get on it.

You can't do much with it because you're just dodging people, you know.

So you kind of, you go, this is going to be a great wave and you get all the way to the end and go, I couldn't do one thing because…

There's just people everywhere.

I'm literally trying to jump between people and you try and find a little... Like hundreds of people.

Yeah.

But you just... Mate, that's the thing about surfing.

Like, if you know there's that one carrot dangling, you'll try everything to get to it.

So...

A lot of it's very, like, gentleman rule-like.

You know, if I do get one, you paddle back and you kind of go, you know.

especially with a lot with a lot of the local places you surf you really got to respect that kind of pecking order of local spots and the guys that you know spend their life there um and you kind of got to wait your turn so but um then saying that some people you know i've paddled out and sat there and a wave goes that way that way everywhere every which way but near you and then you make you know you paddle out with your mate and he's 10 feet on that side getting every good wave and you move over there it goes where you were and

that's just the ocean so some days you feel like you're just in rhythm and you've got it down and then you know the next day you can't find a way how big does it need to get out there before like the amateurs fuck off

I guess to learn to surf like real beginners and you get a lot of beginners on the long boards or soft tops and that kind of stuff.

You know, once it kind of gets about overhead high, you'll day thin out a lot and kind of the intermediate kind of all the expert surfers are on it.

And then I guess it's got to get a fair bit bigger, you know, three times overhead before you start to weed out those other surfers as well.

But yeah,