Joel Parkinson

And then, you know, once you get to that point, everyone's probably a really capable surfer with good knowledge of, you know, not getting in the way or not getting hurt too and all that kind of stuff.

So you're chomping at the bit when that happens.

When that happens, yeah.

That's when you kind of definitely your heart rate's elevated and you really want, you start chasing waves because, you know, they're waves that...

You know, I guess you'd say you're always chasing the wave of your life, but they're waves that definitely put a smile on your face for a week or two if you get one.

It depends on where I'm surfing, you know.

So sometimes, you know, it's only going to be head high.

It depends.

But you're taking off on a, you know, really shallow, sharp reef.

That, you know, can put your heart in your mouth quite quickly.

But then some places, you know, have to be well and truly, you know, double overhead or triple overhead or even bigger.

Varies.

It varies depending on the break.

And, you know, it's scary some days out here when it's small on a Sunday with the crowd, you know, you'll have –

long borders and everything running over you can be just as dangerous then too on the small days do you all do you feel like you're being watched um not so much anymore you know i feel like now it's just you know for me when i was on competing and on tour it definitely it felt like a lot of people would be like judging you like not even just you know not judging you in a contest but

judging how you're surfing, you know, leading up to events or, you know, all that kind of stuff.

Kind of like anyone you see, you know, oh, they've had a good pre-season or a good, you know.

Yeah, yeah.

They've had a couple of weeks off, they're looking right or it hasn't done them good.

But, yeah, nowadays I really couldn't give a shit.