Kelly Slater

When I was first starting out, all I wanted to do was I wanted to be the number one surfer in the world.

I won my first world title at 20.

I went from 43rd in the world to first.

You know, surfing really provides feeling.

I think most humans nowadays with the way life is, we've lost that feeling.

In surfing, it's kind of more personal because you're in the ocean and there's not other people playing this game that you're in.

Whether it's just the speed of the wave, it's a real connection to nature.

I was in a health food shop and there was a tape by Dr. Joel Wallach.

He said, no one dies from old age.

There's no such thing.

You die of a deficiency of something over a long period of time.

I was like, this is fuel for my fire right here.

I'm going to actually like start being healthy.

And then I got into water fasting.

when you first make a change you're in control of with your body it's so exciting and inspiring what keeps you passionate and still having that drive to stay at the top of your game because i'm sure the entire surf world wanted to knock you off you're gonna hate this gary you're gonna like hold this against me here

And I remember- I very nearly got one or two in my 40s, but just didn't- Oh, did you?

You were close.

Came really close.

Yeah.

Came close, came close.