Kelly Slater

But my brother caught a foul ball and he was all excited.

And he was probably about 11 or something, 12 years old.

And he's like showing his friends.

And then this like 15 year old girl comes and swipes it out of his hand.

Goes running away with the ball.

And my dad's got a beer in one hand and a cigarette in the other.

And she comes running by.

My dad grabbed this girl by the hair.

took the ball out of her hand and gave it back to my brother.

That actually happened on national TV just recently too.

And the woman took it from the kid or whatever.

That's why I was telling this story because it was kind of different because my brother literally had possession of the ball for a long period of time.

It was his, you know?

And so my dad was like, yeah, whatever, give that thing back.

For sure.

And I think anyone in their own way can find that.

They say you're in the flow or whatever, flow state.

But in surfing, it's kind of more personal because you're in the ocean and there's not other people playing this game that you're in.

There's a lot of danger.

Yeah, and there's all that stuff too.