Kelly Slater

All that stuff.

That adds to it.

How many sharks in 100-foot waves?

That's part of what drives.

There's definitely adrenaline junkie in all of us surfers that love it like that.

But there is a thing where you don't feel like there's no time between...

the thought and the action, or you're not even thinking, you're just feeling.

And when you really are feeling like what he's just saying is like he's just going by feeling, that's what we were talking about earlier with great whites.

Great whites on the West Coast through into the fall, they stay in California and then they migrate south.

They think that they mate out off of Mexico and then some of the females go to Hawaii.

So how does a great white find its way down to that place out in the ocean where they mate in the breeding grounds area or, you know, maybe one of the islands off Mexico they go to and then swim underwater for a couple thousand miles and find Hawaii?

Those are tiny dots in the middle of the ocean.

So there's this...

I think humans, I think most humans nowadays with what we have with technology and the way life is and how fast paced things are, we've lost that feeling to some degree.

And so with surfing, I think you have such a connection with nature and you're back in it all the time and you crave that thing.

It is a drug.

I remember I got hired to do this thing with Disney one time where I went and spoke to a bunch of people.

They were having a convention and

I was telling him how I am an addict.

I just got addicted to something healthy.