Kelly Slater

And so with surfing, I think you have such a connection with nature and you're back in it all the time and you crave that thing.

It is a drug.

I remember I got hired to do this thing with Disney one time where I went and spoke to a bunch of people.

They were having a convention and

I was telling him how I am an addict.

I just got addicted to something healthy.

Right.

And I did compare surfing to a drug, and I felt a little weird about saying that at a Disney convention or whatever.

But I was like, it really is.

Cold plunging my drug of choice.

Yeah, exactly.

But I think everyone has...

Everyone desires to feel deeply, but I think we all have our emotional reasons why we're scared of that with relationships and stuff like that.

And then with our life being so fast paced, you're not really connected.

Most people don't do something where they have those kinds of feelings very often.

And surfing, it's not hard to get that.

It's a rush, whether it's just the speed of the wave or you're riding nature.

You know, you're just riding wind energy that has really come from, you know, temperature variations that cause the wind to create in the first place.

You're really part of nature.

You know, you become part of this thing.