Kelly Slater

And your foot just... And broke toes or metatarsals.

The first time I did it, I broke two metatarsals.

Another time I broke a couple toes.

And then I broke... Then the last one I did...

I wasn't on a big wave.

It wasn't anything very exciting.

It was a wave that was all closing out, like the wave was finishing, and I pulled into the wave when it broke, and I was just going to dive off.

And while I was in there, I was like, should I dive or should I ride it out?

Because in a wave, if you stay on your board longer, sometimes the energy –

kind of dissipates a little before you even wipe out.

So like you've kind of fallen after the worst part of it.

If you fall just before it all breaks, you can get sucked up and over in the lip of the wave and hit the bottom and stuff.

This wave wasn't even, there was no factor of that.

It was not a very big wave at all.

And I pulled in and I was kind of in two minds.

Should I jump off or should I ride it out?

And my leg was straight.

And all I can figure that happened was some part of the wave

i was facing the wave too so it was a different angle but somehow the board violently got pushed into me and my leg was straight so something had to break in the chain yeah so i broke all five metatarsals across the top all five yeah you mean you literally snapped your foot i put a new joint in my foot basically wow it's a brutal injury i broke the liz frank joint um i broke the

That is a lot of force.