Kelly Slater
👤 SpeakerAppearances Over Time
Podcast Appearances
You know, I'm getting a range of motion.
No.
That's really fortunate.
I've been super fortunate.
My worst injury was I broke my foot really bad in 2017.
Yeah.
I've broken my feet four times surfing.
It's pretty calm.
It's not as uncommon as you think.
The board...
flipping into me this way.
So basically what happened with this one, this was the fourth time I'd broken either toes or metatarsals.
Yeah, so the board just flipped into me.
So three times, the first two times it happened to me,
I was on a wave.
I don't know how your surf knowledge is, but I was basically in the barrel of a wave with my back to the wave and the lip of the wave landing here.
And that lip, when it lands, it explodes back.
You see when a wave breaks and it explodes, right?
So inside the tube that comes back up in the tube at you like this.
And so the first couple times I did it, the lip landed there and pushed the board this way and the board flipped towards me.