Rickson Gracie

The uncomfortable is superb.

You're just not going to get killed or going to get hurt.

But mentally, you could not be in a more stressed situation than being in the ice.

So I felt that will be a good learning ground for me.

So I was using the ice baths.

Because I was seeking for things who are giving me chills and emotions and

I love to play with nature because nature is unbreakable.

Nature is stronger.

So surf for me plays always a double role.

First, the sport of surfing, the delightful element of playing the ocean.

Second is the energy of the ocean, is how the ocean moves.

And you cannot fight the ocean.

You have to go into the channel.

If you get caught, if you lost your board, you cannot just...

swimming back through the channel.

You have to get pounded on your head and go from the waves.

So you have to have a, is a ways to do it, to deal.

One time I lost my board and I had very heavy surf.

In the very late afternoon, I was by myself in the ocean and I lost, and I thinking about the last set I wanna get.

So I get one more wave, I deep, so when I was about to get the set