Simon Vance

Freed from her addiction, Kenny believes that she can now taste the true ho-ho. She can perceive what hostess treats loaded with sugar actually are. Jennifer Pagano, Matson's Director of Insights and Artificial Intelligence, was leading the focus group. It sounds like, you know, I'm hearing from all of you, it's the simple pleasures of food, food in its natural state, she said. Interesting.

Freed from her addiction, Kenny believes that she can now taste the true ho-ho. She can perceive what hostess treats loaded with sugar actually are. Jennifer Pagano, Matson's Director of Insights and Artificial Intelligence, was leading the focus group. It sounds like, you know, I'm hearing from all of you, it's the simple pleasures of food, food in its natural state, she said. Interesting.

Major food companies are scrambling to research the impact of the drugs on their brands and figure out how to adjust. The whole field is still a little stunned, Ashley Gearhart, a food addiction researcher and psychology professor at the University of Michigan, told me over the phone.

Major food companies are scrambling to research the impact of the drugs on their brands and figure out how to adjust. The whole field is still a little stunned, Ashley Gearhart, a food addiction researcher and psychology professor at the University of Michigan, told me over the phone.

But for Mattson, which for nearly 50 years has invented products for the nation's biggest food conglomerates, the Ozempic threat could be a boon. I first walked into Mattson's glassy facility by the San Francisco airport on a beautiful Bay Area morning this summer.

But for Mattson, which for nearly 50 years has invented products for the nation's biggest food conglomerates, the Ozempic threat could be a boon. I first walked into Mattson's glassy facility by the San Francisco airport on a beautiful Bay Area morning this summer.

Barb Stuckey, the company's chief innovation and marketing officer, who describes herself as a hyper-taster and whose tongue can detect changes in barometric pressure, greeted me in the hall carrying an armful of milk cartons. I followed her through the lab, past scientists experimenting with gummies and blitzing high-protein smoothies and carrot soup, out back to the trophy wall.

Barb Stuckey, the company's chief innovation and marketing officer, who describes herself as a hyper-taster and whose tongue can detect changes in barometric pressure, greeted me in the hall carrying an armful of milk cartons. I followed her through the lab, past scientists experimenting with gummies and blitzing high-protein smoothies and carrot soup, out back to the trophy wall.

On the shelves were rows of packages and bottles for products that Mattson had either dreamed up or helped scale and shepherd to market. There were deep-fried chocolate hostess Twinkies— Not something I would put in my body, Stuckey said. Hungry man frozen meals, and a raise of frozen entrees, ice creams, and condiments from America's largest brands.

On the shelves were rows of packages and bottles for products that Mattson had either dreamed up or helped scale and shepherd to market. There were deep-fried chocolate hostess Twinkies— Not something I would put in my body, Stuckey said. Hungry man frozen meals, and a raise of frozen entrees, ice creams, and condiments from America's largest brands.

We invent the future of food, one product at a time, read a sign on the wall. Big food is practiced at spotting perverse openings for new products in our faddish drives for self-improvement. In 1978, for example, Heinz bought Weight Watchers, added products like Cheesecake, and made a tidy profit. That acquisition heralded a trend of health-conscious rebranding that peaked in the 1980s and 90s.

We invent the future of food, one product at a time, read a sign on the wall. Big food is practiced at spotting perverse openings for new products in our faddish drives for self-improvement. In 1978, for example, Heinz bought Weight Watchers, added products like Cheesecake, and made a tidy profit. That acquisition heralded a trend of health-conscious rebranding that peaked in the 1980s and 90s.

Nestle started Lean Cuisine, and Chef America began selling Lean Pockets alongside its Hot Pockets. The difference between the two was roughly 30 calories. Conagra Brands introduced Healthy Choice, a diet-conscious frozen entree brand. McDonald's made McLean Deluxe hamburgers. Nabisco came out with Snack Will's fat-free cookies.

Nestle started Lean Cuisine, and Chef America began selling Lean Pockets alongside its Hot Pockets. The difference between the two was roughly 30 calories. Conagra Brands introduced Healthy Choice, a diet-conscious frozen entree brand. McDonald's made McLean Deluxe hamburgers. Nabisco came out with Snack Will's fat-free cookies.

The public's obsession with weight loss has led to the industry's concocting some very weird substances. In 1996, PepsiCo released potato chips fried in an indigestible fat substitute called Olestra that miraculously had zero calories. One problem, Olestra impeded the absorption of essential vitamins. Another, it caused fecal incontinence.

The public's obsession with weight loss has led to the industry's concocting some very weird substances. In 1996, PepsiCo released potato chips fried in an indigestible fat substitute called Olestra that miraculously had zero calories. One problem, Olestra impeded the absorption of essential vitamins. Another, it caused fecal incontinence.

The substance is now used to paint decks and lubricate power tools. By the time the owner of Carl's Jr. and Cinnabon got around to buying the rights to the Atkins diet in 2010, interest in fad diets was starting to wane, and big food pivoted.

The substance is now used to paint decks and lubricate power tools. By the time the owner of Carl's Jr. and Cinnabon got around to buying the rights to the Atkins diet in 2010, interest in fad diets was starting to wane, and big food pivoted.

The industry increasingly pushed foods enhanced with protein and fiber, or with herbs and minerals and antioxidants and vitamins, a trend that continues today, despite scant evidence that eating ultra-processed products infused with individual nutrients makes people healthier. There is little the industry hasn't tried to keep health-conscious consumers eating.

The industry increasingly pushed foods enhanced with protein and fiber, or with herbs and minerals and antioxidants and vitamins, a trend that continues today, despite scant evidence that eating ultra-processed products infused with individual nutrients makes people healthier. There is little the industry hasn't tried to keep health-conscious consumers eating.