Simon Vance

Companies conceal clouds of nostalgic aromas into packaging to trigger Proustian reverie. When they discovered that noisier chips induced people to eat more of them, snack engineers turned up the crunch. Food technologists found a way to amplify the intensity of artificial sweeteners to hundreds of times beyond sugar's natural flavor.

Companies conceal clouds of nostalgic aromas into packaging to trigger Proustian reverie. When they discovered that noisier chips induced people to eat more of them, snack engineers turned up the crunch. Food technologists found a way to amplify the intensity of artificial sweeteners to hundreds of times beyond sugar's natural flavor.

The structure of salt crystals can be altered to accelerate the speed at which they absorb into chemical pathways that signal saltiness, allowing the brain to perceive the flavor more intensely. In the chemosensory world, says Dan Wesson, the director of the Florida Chemical Senses Institute, referring to the science of how chemicals provoke sensations, almost anything is possible.

The structure of salt crystals can be altered to accelerate the speed at which they absorb into chemical pathways that signal saltiness, allowing the brain to perceive the flavor more intensely. In the chemosensory world, says Dan Wesson, the director of the Florida Chemical Senses Institute, referring to the science of how chemicals provoke sensations, almost anything is possible.

Dullness has its uses, too. Companies make products like potato chips, popcorn, and mac and cheese meals bland on purpose to bypass sensory-specific satiety, the feeling when strongly flavored foods become less desirable as they are eaten.

Dullness has its uses, too. Companies make products like potato chips, popcorn, and mac and cheese meals bland on purpose to bypass sensory-specific satiety, the feeling when strongly flavored foods become less desirable as they are eaten.

Big food plumbed behavioral research for clues to how the brain's reward system reacts to sugar and salt, using it to keep products tickling the bliss point, the height of delight. But there is no equivalent bliss point for fat. Fortunately for the industry, people tend to want as much fat as they can get.

Big food plumbed behavioral research for clues to how the brain's reward system reacts to sugar and salt, using it to keep products tickling the bliss point, the height of delight. But there is no equivalent bliss point for fat. Fortunately for the industry, people tend to want as much fat as they can get.

Scientists can engineer fats to melt at precisely the right temperature in the mouth, sparking the release of dopamine while creating an impression of vanishing caloric density. A Cheeto, disintegrating innocently on the tongue, tells us it contains fewer calories than it does.

Scientists can engineer fats to melt at precisely the right temperature in the mouth, sparking the release of dopamine while creating an impression of vanishing caloric density. A Cheeto, disintegrating innocently on the tongue, tells us it contains fewer calories than it does.

The more they get away from the actual food and into the convenience of the packaging, the better they do, Robert Mosko, a food industry analyst who works at the investment bank T.D. Cowan, told me. But many chemicals used in industrial processing can taste unpleasant, metallic, or bitter.

The more they get away from the actual food and into the convenience of the packaging, the better they do, Robert Mosko, a food industry analyst who works at the investment bank T.D. Cowan, told me. But many chemicals used in industrial processing can taste unpleasant, metallic, or bitter.

Flavour companies like the US-based International Flavours and Fragrances create masking compounds to cover up those off-notes. But those chemicals, it turns out, can taste weird too. The industry's solution is masking compounds that cover up the tastes of the original masking compounds. I feel like I'm constantly defending big food, Stucky told me when I brought up the industry's history.

Flavour companies like the US-based International Flavours and Fragrances create masking compounds to cover up those off-notes. But those chemicals, it turns out, can taste weird too. The industry's solution is masking compounds that cover up the tastes of the original masking compounds. I feel like I'm constantly defending big food, Stucky told me when I brought up the industry's history.

And perhaps she is right to be. Eating is more convenient now, and it can be cheap. Poor harvests don't have nearly the same impact that they might have in the past.

And perhaps she is right to be. Eating is more convenient now, and it can be cheap. Poor harvests don't have nearly the same impact that they might have in the past.

Breakthroughs in processing that made possible products like dehydrated chicken soups, frozen French fries and Jell-O instant puddings helped reduce domestic burdens on, for the most part, women, many of whom then entered the workforce. In 1947, at a time when food processing was in its early days, Americans were spending nearly a quarter of their disposable incomes on food.

Breakthroughs in processing that made possible products like dehydrated chicken soups, frozen French fries and Jell-O instant puddings helped reduce domestic burdens on, for the most part, women, many of whom then entered the workforce. In 1947, at a time when food processing was in its early days, Americans were spending nearly a quarter of their disposable incomes on food.

Last year that figure was only 11%. And inflation was running high. The trade-off is obesity. Caloric consumption per capita in the United States has plateaued since 2000, while Americans have slightly intensified their physical activity. At the same time, the obesity rate has swelled by more than a third. Probably the culprit is the food.

Last year that figure was only 11%. And inflation was running high. The trade-off is obesity. Caloric consumption per capita in the United States has plateaued since 2000, while Americans have slightly intensified their physical activity. At the same time, the obesity rate has swelled by more than a third. Probably the culprit is the food.