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Wit and Wisdomby Beth Broderick“You ladies would not cotton to it. There are wonderful things to see and do, but you have to put up with no small amount of congestion, some very unkempt areas, and a whole passel of Hollywood characters.”My gal pals are all kinds of intrepid, and they are serious warriors for good. They sit on boards for concerned scientists and job training foundations for at-risk youth. They raise money for the environment and for any and every candidate for office who promises to protect it. They fund wildlife defense here and abroad. They protect the lions and lobby for the right to a first-rate education for all. They fight for women’s rights and advocate for the LGBTQ community. They are brave and brilliant, but they are not likely to enjoy my treks through Hollywood’s more sordid environs. Cookie, Nancy, and Sara give until it hurts and then give some more; they are the stuff of legend, but my ladies don’t do doo-doo, and one has to step around quite a bit of it on my side of town.Fairness and I have made a few discoveries since moving back to Hollywood proper. It is an area that is at once steeped in history and in a constant state of transition. This part of town is known for the bustle, hustle, and noise of Hollywood Boulevard and the great gaggle of tourists who find their way to it, thrilling to the sight of a star carved with the name of their favorite celebrity. Pictures are taken, souvenirs purchased, and tours arranged with breathless excitement. A picture in front of the Hollywood sign, which to Angeleno’s is nothing more than a big word on a smallish hill, is a rite of passage. They will block traffic, run out in front of moving vehicles, walk for miles in inadequate footwear, just for the chance to capture themselves in the foreground. A lot of folks are annoyed by their antics, but I am touched by their dogged insistence on the joy of it all. Bless.There is a lot of blather in the blogosphere about how unbearable life is in Hollywood. A recent round of internet gossip insisted that the venerable Hollywood institution “Musso & Frank’s” had been driven out of business by the homeless crisis and the attendant “crime” that accompanies it.“Such a shame about that place. It’s just terrible that they’ve got to close,” my friend Dean said in reference to the wonderful old-school restaurant.“It’s not closing,” I said. “It takes weeks to get a reservation at Musso’s. They are more popular than ever.”“Are you sure? It’s all over the internet that they are shutting down.”“I was just there a month or two ago.”It was packed to the rafters with people waiting patiently for a chance to savor their famous sand dabs and decadent Lyonnaise potatoes. My friends all had one of their bracing martinis. The crisp and elegant drink is served straight up with a small shaker of refill nestled into a bowl of ice; the place is still old-school California dining at its best.“It is not closed; not even close to closing.”Dean was scrolling in search of verification.“Oh, you’re right. The owners say that’s just a rumor; that business has never been better. Huh. Wonder who started that whole thing? What was that about?” I shrugged. “Haters are gonna hate.”Dean is an adventurer; he will go to great lengths to pursue an experience. He loves theater and concerts, art exhibits, gorgeous gardens, and, of course, great dining. He is not put off by difficult parking or hella traffic or stepping over a few folks who have chosen a strange place to catch a few zzzz’s. He is not judgmental about such things, so that rumor had to be pretty convincing to fool him.The misinformation is coming at us so fast and furiously these days that it is hard to know what is true. I think it prudent to regard most of it with a healthy dose of skepticism.THE OTHER SIDE OF TINSELTOWN.The neighborhood extends well beyond those few storied blocks. Heading west on Franklin, the traffic slows and the scenery charms. There are large estates tucked up into the hills and ivy-covered walls obscuring the view of well-preserved garden apartments, where vacancy is a rarity. Of course, I have driven down that street for forty years, but I never really saw it until now. Walking through it is the only way to really know what a city is made of.I cannot believe that it took me this long to finally tour the grounds of the old “Wattles Mansion and Gardens.” The estate is now owned by the city, which maintains the grounds and offers the buildings up for filming or weddings or whatever event one might wish to use them for. The locals all meet there in the late afternoons to let their dogs play and loll about in the cool grass. Fairness and I avoid the crowd and wander toward the back, hoping for a quick game of catch. Most days we succeed in finding a few moments of play before the light begins to fade and it is time to head for home.As one heads south on Curson, you can peek in at the Wattles community garden that occupies two city blocks. Folks can rent a plot there for a small fee and grow their own vegetables or plant cutting gardens. Avocados abound, along with all manner of crops and flower beds. Bags of soil and sets of tools line the perimeter of each space, and a few folks have set up tables and chairs for lunch breaks. I could stare into that place for hours and still not register all of the gorgeous detail of the endeavors at hand.Go across Hollywood Boulevard to the south, and you will find a charming historic district called “Sunset Square.” How had I not known of this before? It is a quiet, leafy oasis which boasts well-preserved Craftsman-style homes. There are tons of well-established trees, heavy with lemons, grapefruit, and oranges. I saw pears too, and figs and a host of apple varieties. As one continues east, you pass the Gardener Elementary School. Then the buildings get bigger and newer, and the landscape gives way to more corporate real estate interests.The entrance to the famed Runyon Canyon Park is due north, and the sidewalks are busy with hikers on their way to beat down the paths that run up and through it. The popularity of these hiking trails cannot be overstated. The place is consistently overrun with enthusiasts. I avoid it because there are far too many off-leash dogs running around in those hills, and I prefer to avoid the risks inherent in that, but never say never. Fairness and I are going to sign up for a training program that teaches proper socialization and a controlled response to whatever may arise in that situation. So maybe?Maybe.Just a few blocks to the east, and one is in the heart of the tourist mecca, where street vendors hawk everything from hot sausage with peppers to hats with “Hollywood” emblazoned on them and all manner of trinkets and keepsakes. Head north, and you will find beautiful old buildings like the Nirvana and the Villa Bonita, which is said to have housed Errol Flynn in his heyday. There are hidden gems like the Valentino building, which is full of fountains and historic apartments with exquisite architectural details. I lived there for a time and know it well.Due east, there are new high-rises, most of them mixed-use buildings with stores like Trader Joe’s and Bristol Farms on the ground floor, which cater to their residents. Keep going and head just a few blocks up to Whitley Heights, which is full of old estates bordered by the 101 freeway on one side and Franklin Avenue on the other. The flats below have wonderful old places to see like the Fontenoy, La Leyenda, and El Cabrillo. The latter boasts a plaque that states it was built by Cecil B. DeMille. One assumes these were erected to house the artists and artisans who contributed to the early days of cinema and got the ball rolling for the juggernaut of the entertainment industry, which brings hordes of visitors to the sites nearby.There are dodgy bits, of course, as I make my way through these streets. I have pepper spray at the ready and keep an eye out for trouble. Some folks are sleeping under makeshift tents, while others are dragging their belongings down the street. The lucky ones have carts, but many have everything they own stuffed into a black trash bag. There is the occasional screamer, coping with the effects of crystal meth or fentanyl. I recently saw a young man staring into the side-view mirror of a parked car and punching himself in the face. I felt sorry for him and wanted to intervene, to help somehow, but I know better. We crossed the street and left him to it.We passed by Miceli’s Italian Restaurant. My friends and I have had many a mediocre, but somehow still wonderful meal there. Someone is always at the piano, and the wait staff takes turns singing mostly old standard tunes. Lovely.The other day Michael and I looked for the site of the old Les Deux Cafe, where I spent many an evening. The one and only Michelle Lamy helped to plan my first wedding, and we held it there with 200 guests all dressed in white. The bridesmaids and groomsmen performed musical numbers during the ceremony, and we even talked the priest into playing the maracas. It was wild and woolly and great fun. Folks still talk about that wedding; it was memorable in a way that the marriage was not. Turns out we were too far north to find the building before the rain began to fall in earnest, so we gave up and headed for home. There are many more walks to be taken; I am sure to visit it soon.The apartment is still in disarray; many boxes remain unpacked as I try to figure out how to squeeze my too many things into a space with too little storage. Dardan, the wildly talented handyman who has helped me on several occasions, is due back from Europe next week, and we will set about building me into this place. I am okay with the chaos because I love this part, love creating a new environment. I find it helps to just sit with a room for a bit before deciding what to fill it with. Free-floating shelves or a cabinet? Table with a bench or chairs? Keep the simple shades or add window treatments? The walls will whisper the answers to me in due time. Like the streets all around me, they have stories to tell and history to share. How grand that I will occupy a small part of that someday. Hooray for Hollywood!On we go …We extend our heartfelt gratitude to our valued subscribers whose support makes the publication of Wit and Wisdom possible. Thank you! This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit bethbroderick.substack.com/subscribe