Show notes
On this episode of the Books on Asia Podcast, sponsored by Stone Bridge Press, Alex Kerr is returning to the show. Alex is author of such notable books as Lost Japan, Dogs and Demons, Finding the Heart Sutra, and Another Kyoto. Today he talks to podcast host Amy Chavez about his latest book, Another Bangkok, released on July 1, 2021. He introduces Thailand's capital city via its architecture, arts, and culture, and shows us how they are similar to Japan's. NOTE TO LISTENERS: In addition to the podcast, Alex has provided some visuals of the interior pages of the book, which can be accessed on the Books on Asia YouTube channel.Show NotesKerr starts out the show explaining that Another Bangkok is not a "new" book but a rewrite of a book previously called Bangkok Found. He talks about why and how he rewrote major sections of the book. (The previous version of the book was published by River Books, and "Another Bangkok" is with Penguin. The book is available on Amazon Japan and Amazon.com from July 1.)Alex says that in this version of the book, the subjects are broader, with topics such as living in an old house vs. living in a modern apartment, modern Thai design, Thai etiquette, and Thai food. But what all the topics share is a deep penetration into the traditional Thai culture. Alex reads a few lines from the preface that point out that while tourists come to Japan to see and experience the culture, people visit Thailand for fun, shopping, and beaches. People don't see Thailand as a place to go for rich culture and thus often dismiss it because there is nothing written down that explains the culture. Thus, this book.Amy asks Alex what kind of changes were made to the original and what the experience of rewriting it was like.He says that after writing Finding the Heart Sutra, he learned to simplify his writing and streamline it to make the book shorter, sharper, and more readable. He also updated it, as a decade had passed since it was first published as Bangkok Found. In all, it took him three years to rewrite the current book.Getting back to what the book contains, Alex says there is a chapter on traditional Thai ceramics, such as the bowl seen on the cover of the book, and he focuses on one of the Thai hallmarks of their culture, sanuk, which means "fun."The story starts with Alex as a student in the 70s visiting Thailand (the video shows a photo of the City Pillar) and how difficult it was for him to find the history about this Pillar, the known geographical center of Bangkok. He reveals that in Thailand there are multiple meanings of so many things, including history. Alex's quest was to unearth this history and its roots.He uses the Grand Palace in Bangkok as another example, citing the fact that most people don't really understand what the meaning of the Grand Palace is. This launches into a discussion of architecture, and Alex explains how Thai buildings resemble other Asian structures but are elongated to have soaring stupas and spires. He talks about an old traditional house he lived in as well as some street scenes such as a street vendor, the BTS sky train entrance, and Motorcycle boys who act as taxis by taking on pillion passengers.The conversation turns to etiquette, which Alex is very aware of as one of Amy's passions (see Amy's Guide to Best Behavior in Japan) and talks about how etiquette is very important in Thai society and, as in Japan, is so much more than what one sees or can observe on the surface. There is much more, for example, to the Thai smile that tourists find so charming. Marayat, as Thai etiquette is called, compares to Japanese keigo in that it is complex and used to create a mood of gentleness. Thais are horrified by loud talk or slamming of doors, getting angry or showing anger, etc.Amy asks how it is different from Japanese etiquette, since she thinks the Japanese are also threatened by such inharmonious behaviors.Alex agrees that indeed, they are similar, which is why Japanese people are so comfortable visiting Thailand. Thailand has the same concepts such as seiza (proper sitting) and enryo (self-restraint), but the difference is more obvious in Japan's bolder gestures, which aren't present in Thai culture: The militaristic rigidness and the shouting of "Arigato gozaimasu!" are absent among Thais, who prefer gentleness in every aspect. Etiquette is also ingrained in Thai culture from childhood as marayat is taught in school, and there are even marayat contests, judged not just on how correctly you perform an act, but how beautifully you do it. This is one of the keys to the charm of Thailand.Amy, fascinated, asks Alex to explain a photo showing four kinds of the wai, the Thai gesture of putting the hands together in a prayer gesture in front of the chest while bowing the head. In each photo, the placement of the thumb and fingers change. In the first illustration, showing the wai given to a friend or equal, the hands are at the chest height, head not bowed. In the second, used to a superior, the hands are held further up toward the nose. The third, with hands placed yet further up the face to the forehead, is for a salutation to a monk, and the fourth with the finger tips touching the hairline, is afforded a king or royal. Kerr says there are equally specific ways to walk, sit, and receive something.He briefly discusses the Three Worlds Cosmology used by Thais to navigate their own level in the wider world. He compares this to a mandala, a Japanese pagoda, and other symbols in Asia.He shows Lai Thai designs, that, like Japanese calligraphy, have an ancient tradition of lines and styles that stretch back to Angkor Wat, Java, and India. Flame-like designs and roof finials are examples as well as some more contemporary digitized versions. (Images of these and other subjects discussed on the podcast are available on the YouTube video.) Kerr elaborates on the Thai Food and costume chapters, contrasting them with Japan. Whereas Japanese food is about the feel of the moment, the seasonal and distinct tastes, Thai food is mixed and mingled with other flavors to create a fusion, which is what makes the food so fantastic. Thais applied the same concept to clothing, by incorporating Western styles and mixing them with their own, something that never really happened with Japanese clothing. As a result, the Japanese kimono is basically the same as it has always been, but also remains too impractical for modern, everyday activities.Kerr also has a chapter in his book on baisri, which is Thai flower arrangement. He notes that, unlike Japanese ikebana, nothing ends up looking like it did when it started. Things are folded and shaped into very different representations, some very elaborate, while others are subject to much modernization. He has also included a chapter on Thai dance, known for its two classic hand gestures, and talks about the evolution of contemporary Thai dance.Of course, Kerr also talks about his Thai art collection, including prehistoric pots and modern Thai ceramics. There is also a chapter on foreigners in Thailand and how for him the tables were turned when he started visiting Thailand as a foreigner who didn't speak the language or know much about the culture. In Thailand, he finds himself more in the role of an expat than he does while living in Japan, since so many of his friends in Japan are Japanese. He highlights the long tradition of foreigners being welcomed to Thailand and suggests that in some ways Japanese culture is easier to penetrate and to be accepted in as a foreigner than Thailand is.Lastly, there is a chapter on religion, folk religions, and customs like the good-luck beckoning lady similar to Japan's maneki neko beckoning cat.Another Bangkok is a cultural guidebook but served with a bit of lightness, intended to introduce Thailand to people in a gentle, fun, sanuk kind of way.Kerr winds up the podcast by introducing his new YouTube channel "Secrets of Things," where he introduces Asian arts such as paintings, screens, scrolls, and other pieces, mostly from his own collection, and tells what makes these pieces so special.Listen to our previous podcast with Alex Kerr about Finding the Heart Sutra.The Books on Asia Podcast is sponsored by Stone Bridge Press, publisher of fine books on Asia for over 30 years. 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The Books on Asia Podcast is co-produced with Plum Rain Press. Amy Chavez is author of Amy's Guide to Best Behavior in Japan and The Widow, the Priest, and the Octopus Hunter: Discovering a Lost Way of Life on a Secluded Japanese Island. Check out theBooks on Asia website for book reviews and podcast episodes. Subscribe to the BOA podcast from your favorite podcast service.