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Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing

Better Call Paul | Are Your Statistics Even Significant, Bro?

01 Jun 2022

Description

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss statistics and their significance with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson.  He explains his views on statistical models, p-values, and more — and breaks down how we should be looking at all this data as climbers.   *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: Scientists rise up against statistical significance by Valentin Amrhein, Sander Greenland, and Blake McShane; published in Nature 567 (305-307), 2019. 800 scientists say it’s time to abandon “statistical significance” by Brian Resnick; published on Vox; March, 22, 2019. Systematic review of the use of “magnitude-based inference” in sports science and medicine by Keith R. Lohse, Kristin L. Sainani, J. Andrew Taylor, Michael L. Butson, Emma J. Knight, and Andrew J. Vickers; published on PLOS ONE; June 26, 2020.   Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please tell all of your friends who are confused and overwhelmed by the amount of jumbled and conflicting training info out there, that you have the perfect podcast for them.   Better Call Paul | Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website. Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram  Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram  If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub. Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

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