In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that explores how our attention - and where we focus it - can impact our performance: Links between Attention, Performance Pressure, and Movement in Skilled Motor Action Authored by Rob Gray; published in Current Directions in Psychological Science in June, 2011. They’ll discuss the difference between focusing attention internally or externally, and how each has been shown to affect athletic performance, especially when the pressure is on. They’ll break down four ways that attention focus has been shown to impact movement, and what this information could mean for climbers. *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: Performance of gymnastics skill benefits from an external focus of attention Authored by Reza Abdollahipour, Gabriele Wulf, Rudolf Psotta, and Miriam Palomo Nieto; published in the Journal of Sports Sciences, 2015. Internal and External Focus of Attention in a Novice Form Sport Authored by Gavin P. Lawrence, Vicky M. Gottwald, James Hardy, and Michael A. Khan; published in Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport, 2011. New episodes of Breaking Beta drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please, tell all of your friends who are constantly telling you that “You’ll send if when you do that, you just focus on pulling with your lats instead of your traps,” that you have the perfect podcast for them. Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website. Season 2 of Breaking Beta is proudly supported by Gnarly Sports Nutrition. For a limited time, Breaking Beta listeners can take 15% off their purchase using the code BETA15 at checkout! Or simply click the link above to shop and have the discount automatically applied. Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub. Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

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“What did the council decide on item 42?” — answered with the speaker and the moment.

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