Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?

In this episode, Kris and Paul take a look at three papers dealing with the shoulder health of climbers: Application of closed kinematic chain exercises with eccentric and strength exercises for the shoulder injuries prevention in student rock climbers: a randomized controlled trial Authored by Serhii Kozin, Marian Cretu, Zhanneta Kozina, Andrii Chernozub, Olena Ryepko, Tetiana Shepelenko, Iryna Sobko, and Mariia Oleksiuk; published in the Acta of Bioengineering and Biomechanics in January, 2021. & Shoulder pathology on magnetic resonance imaging in asymptomatic elite-level rock climbers Authored by Joseph D. Cooper, Max N. Seiter, Joseph J. Ruzbarsky, Ricky Poulton, Grant J. Dornan, Eric K. Fitzcharles, Charles P. Ho, and Thomas R. Hackett; published in The Orthopaedic Journal of Sports Medicine in February, 2022. & Shoulder girdle strength and finger flexor strength in prediction of performance in female rock climbers Authored by Jan Kodejška and Jiří Baláš; published in Studia sportiva in 2016.   They’ll attempt to determine whether or not strength training really is a viable method for preventing shoulder injuries, and if shoulder health can be a reliable indicator of climbing performance in women.   New episodes of Breaking Beta drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please, tell all of your friends who don’t have time to climb because they are doing dozens of wacky exercises with the 1 lb. dumbbells that you have the perfect podcast for them.   Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website. Season 2 of Breaking Beta is proudly supported by Gnarly Sports Nutrition. For a limited time, Breaking Beta listeners can take 15% off their purchase using the code BETA15 at checkout! Or simply click the link above to shop and have the discount automatically applied. Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram  Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram  If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub. Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

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