In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what might be the most popular study in all of climbing: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology in 2012. They’ll try to determine whether this study provides evidence for one hangboard protocol to rule them all, or if folks have just been misinterpreting the data. Tune in to see who wins in the finger strength battle between Minimum Edge Depth and Maximum Added Weight! New episodes drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please tell all your friends who are constantly telling you that their hang protocol is the number one best protocol, that you have the perfect podcast for them. Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website. Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram Check out both of our Kettlebells for Climbers ebooks! If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub. Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

Ask this episode

“What did the council decide on item 42?” — answered with the speaker and the moment.

Transcript

Related