Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that dares to touch THE ultimate strength debate climbers love to argue about: Comparison of Climbing-Specific Strength and Endurance Between Lead and Boulder Climbers authored by Nicolay Stien, Atle Hole Saeterbakken, Espen Hermans, Vegard Albert Vereide, Elias Olsen, and Vidar Andersen; published in PLOS ONE in 2019. They’ll attempt to determine whether or not there’s actually scientific evidence determining if the stronger climbers are those toting crash pads or hauling ropes. Tune in to find out if all that time you’ve spent hanging draws means you’ll never send your bouldering buddies’ warmups, or if all their top outs have done nothing to prepare them for clipping chains.   *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: Haemodynamic Kinetics and Intermittent Finger Flexor Performance in Rock Climbers authored by Simon Fryer, Lee Stoner, Adam Lucero, Trevor Guy Witter, C. Scarrott, Tabitha Dickson, M. Cole, and Nick Draper; published in the International Journal of Sports Medicine, 2014. International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCA), Reporting Grades in Climbing Research, Climbing Grade Conversion Chart   New episodes drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please tell all of your friends who slowly and frustratingly sport climb their way up boulders, maybe even wearing a harness, that you have the perfect podcast for them.   Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website. Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram  Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram  If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub. Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

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