Chapter 1: What is the main topic discussed in this episode?
Welcome to the podcast version of Sunday Masalini, which differs from the radio version for rights reasons. We hope you enjoy the programme.
I was lucky enough to be on tour recently in India with a Fishamble production of King by Pat Kinevan. The invitation came from the Irish Embassy in New Delhi, reflecting the strong links between both countries. I had never been to India, or indeed Asia, before, so people were telling me what a culture shock was in store.
I expected to be mesmerised by the cultural differences, and I was, but I was also moved by many small acts of kindness and generosity we encountered during the trip. We toured to three cities, Jaipur, Kolkata and Itanagar, up in the north-east of the country at the foot of the Himalayas.
In Jaipur and Kolkata, we were in beautiful art centres, and the audiences reminded me of similar audiences in Ireland who might go to see a touring production by an Indian company. In Etanagar, a protected area which requires a special permit to enter, the reaction was a bit different.
The audiences were quieter throughout, so we were concerned that the play might not be resonating with them as strongly. But then, after the performance, 300 people came up on stage, one by one, shaking hands with us and telling us how much it meant to them that we were there. I doubted that I, or any Irish audience, would take the time to do the same.
In Jaipur, we were in the Rajasthan International Centre, a stunning building with many performance spaces.
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Chapter 2: What cultural experiences did the speaker encounter in India?
There was a loud musical performance in the theatre next to ours, with the audience singing along to endless encores, so it was running well over time. The staff simply decided to move the performers and the whole audience to a different space in the same building so we could have silence in our theatre.
As our performance went up almost an hour late, I suggested I might make a short speech to thank the audience for their patience and explain the reason for the delay. Everyone looked at me like I had suggested something very bizarre indeed. I learnt that it's not unusual in India for things to be late and the people are very relaxed about it.
Someone said to me that they heard Ireland's also a very relaxed place and I had to reveal that while this might well be our reputation, we are much less likely to be as patient as our Indian counterparts. We were surprised to find that our play, which we usually advertise as suitable for over 14s, was deemed much more adult in India, with themes of mental health and colonialism.
Some audience members explained to me that Indian playwrights are not usually quite so provocative and don't tend to ask such controversial questions as our play did. So before each performance, someone would announce that this was strictly for adults only and that anyone under 18 must leave the auditorium immediately as it was not suitable.
We worried that people might expect something a bit more risque than we were actually delivering. In Etanagar, we had a lovely young man as our guide. He welcomed me by addressing me as Sir Jim. I told him there was no need to call me Sir, that Jim was fine. But he asked me please to allow him call me Sir as a mark of his respect and happiness that I had visited his region.
So I agreed, of course, not wanting to seem ungrateful. His English was fantastic, but it was his third language, so there was the odd slip-up, understandably. So for 24 hours I was not addressed as Sir, but as Madam. Would Madam Jim like to come this way, please? Did Madam Jim sleep well? Would Madam Jim like a cup of tea? I thought this was very endearing.
But then I saw his friend call him aside and the poor man started shaking his head in horror. He came over and apologised. I reassured him there was nothing to be sorry about. He was worried he had offended me. I reassured him that I wasn't offended in the slightest.
We got over this and then he was back to calling me sir again although there was a moment later in the day when he said sir, madam, oh dear I'm confused and he asked me which it was. I found myself saying it's sir Jim actually and I thought if anyone overhears me correcting him it must sound like I've lost the run of myself completely.
We were all very moved by the respect we were shown and the time taken to welcome us at airports with banners and gifts and songs. While we experienced many amazing cultural differences, the term culture shock doesn't quite capture it.
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Chapter 3: How did the audience react to the performances in different cities?
It wasn't so much a shock, but rather a welcome opportunity to meet new friends, experience other ways of doing things, and be reminded how important it is to see the world from other people's perspective.
Sea swimming season is almost upon us again. Some bathers are wary of swimming on beaches near to where seals congregate. However, there's little cause to be concerned. That's my belief, anyway. While I've had several close encounters with seals during my regular swims at the Forty Foot in County Dublin down the years, my experiences have been uneventful.
It's never been more than a curious seal pup playfully twisting and turning below me, or the occasional adult popping its head above the surface to see who's intruding on its trusted corridor to Bullock Harbour. By showing seals the respect they deserve and keeping your distance, by and large everything ends up swimmingly. So says my friend and neighbour Mark Leslie.
Mark is a seasoned sea swimmer and seal aficionado. Mark cherishes being underwater filming a plump of seals. It's why his fellow swimmers in Sandy Cove call him the Seal Whisperer. Mark assures me he's on first-name terms with what he calls the Wahoo tribe, a moniker he coined for the local herd of seals whose HQ is Doki Island.
If Mark is not down at the Forty Foot for his early morning dip, chances are he's over by the Old Baths, where sub-aqua divers gather at weekends exploring the depths with his seal friends in Scotsman's Bay. He calls it the Seal Garden. There he swims with Beamish, Doris, et al. amid the green and orange fields of kelp.
Other less energetic seals take to the nearby rocks, lazing in the sun and rolling about in slow motion. The seal garden is also a ballroom of romance for those in search of their ration of passion. Once Juliet adopts a banana pose and gets a little frisky on the rocks, Romeo knows it's time for action. When the deed is done, the couple perform a victory swim.
They breach the surface of the water and jump into the air to let their wahoo colleagues know they had a whale of a time. How easy is it to tell the seals apart? Well, when it comes to a bull or a cow, size and shape determines that. A bull like Beamish is stout, dark and has a white snout. Doris is, well, a lady just like Doris Day.
But how does the seal whisperer separate Doris from Brona and Brona from speckles? Mark tells me it's down to body markings and personality, how they behave in the water. The local herd of grey or harbour seals at Dorky Island numbers around 50. They swim to and from Sandy Cove and Channels, occasionally stopping off at Bullock Harbour for a snack. They can spend up to 30 minutes submerged.
Mark understands why people might be nervous around seals. They are put off by how big they are in the water, particularly a bull, and how fast they move. Seals are territorial. Pups are highly inquisitive and find the actions of humans intriguing. It's advisable to avoid a cow when she has young alongside her in the water.
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Chapter 4: What unexpected lessons about time and patience were learned in India?
It looks spoiled. Shouldn't we throw that out? No, no, no, I say with too much urgency. Why not? Because you can't. I won't let you. It comes out a little harsher than intended. I don't really know the guy who keeps the jar out here. We don't speak much beyond, hi, and how's it going, and do you have a lighter?
Even so, I will infinitely defend his right to keep this jar of possibly spoiled pickles. Not because I think it would be a great bonding exercise for all of us to have a taste of some weather-beaten cucumbers, but because these are homemade pickles. A jar of homemade pickles means someone saying, I love you and I hope you are well, without so many words.
This is a piece of home, and here, so far away from all things familiar, it is a great comfort. A picture paints itself in my mind of late summer, after the cucumber harvest. My grandfather's rough hands, coated with a layer of dirt, the whole kitchen smelling like earth and cucumber stems. My grandmother is boiling water, adding vinegar. The smell burns all the way up to my brain.
Chapter 5: What unique challenges do playwrights face in India compared to Ireland?
Dill, tomatoes, blackcurrant leaves, nettle, bright green cucumbers, all filled in various jars with mismatched labels saying things like soup or beets. Vaguely familiar melodies flow from the ancient radio on the other side of the stove, below rows of dried garlic and wild herbs. This is a tradition that is slowly dying out. Every next generation is less likely to stick to it.
Slow, conscious practices like these are being pushed out by the modern world. There are never enough hours in a day, never enough days in a year, certainly not enough to wait for a cucumber harvest. My mother has never made pickles, and I know that I won't either. I call my grandmother to tell her about the jar of pickles, but not, of course, to tell her that they're making me a little homesick.
That kind of sentiment is not easily understood or accepted. Eastern European grandmothers in their old age tend to be a little sharp, vinegar running through their veins. Way to hear all that, Grandma. I don't know, they had someone on the talk show last night. And that makes them credible. Don't be smart with me. You always talk back like this, never listening to my good advice. I sigh.
Alright, I'll make sure to wash my vegetables, okay? Well, you don't have to do it just because I said so. Stop talking nonsense and go to bed on time. Her voice sounds annoyed, but I know that this is the only way she knows to express her love and care. Okay, Grandma, you go to sleep on time, too. I'll sleep when I want to.
She cuts the call, and I close my eyes, an expression of warm amusement on my face. I go back to check on the pickles the next morning, and the jar is back in its designated corner on the roof, now with a crooked smiley face drawn on it in black marker, a little note stuck under it. Our new housemate.
The End ¶¶
Let's call a spade a spade here. Writing songs is a pure notion to be found in the notions aisle of your local supermarket.
Oh, I can't go out to fill the cold just now. I'm writing a song here. Yes, I'll cut the grass in a minute. I'm just working on a middle eight that takes me to a different space.
But in all seriousness, getting a chance to put order on a thought that you think and then to put a tune on it and then years later and miles away, maybe hear someone you never met singing it. What a thrill that must be.
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