A Turning Point for Ultraprocessed Foods

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Sabrina Tavernisi 0:01
From The New York Times, I'm Sabrina Tavernisi, and this is The Daily. A new study has found that nearly three-quarters of American adults are now obese or overweight. And there's been growing concern among politicians, scientists, and consumers about one potential culprit. Are ultra-processed foods to blame for addiction to sugar and ultra-processed foods? ultra-processed food.
Unknown 0:34
We are all addicted to eating fast food and ultra-processed foods, and that is melting our brains in real time. Straight up.
Sabrina Tavernisi 0:42
Today, my colleague, nutrition writer Alice Callahan, on how these foods came to be such a big part of what we eat and why that's so hard to change. It's Friday, December 13th.
Alice Callahan 1:07
Alice Callahan, welcome to the show. Thank you. It's so good to be here, Sabrina.
Sabrina Tavernisi 1:11
So you cover nutrition for The Times, and you, as I understand, are uniquely qualified to have this conversation about ultra-processed foods because you literally have a PhD in nutrition.
Alice Callahan 1:23
I do have a PhD in nutrition. That's right. So I started out in academia. I thought that I would be a nutrition scientist. But pretty soon after, I actually decided to transition to science writing because I really wanted to be in a position where I could read the science, talk to the scientists, and then be able to turn around and kind of interpret it for everyday people who are trying to figure out what to eat. And one of the things that we've seen in just the last few years in this field is a real change in the way we talk about food. When I was in graduate school, we were learning all about carbs and fats and protein and vitamins and minerals and how we break these nutrients down and use them in our bodies. Nobody at that time was talking about how foods were processed.
Alice Callahan 2:13
And now just in the last few years, we're seeing a lot of attention on how food processing might affect our health and especially this category of ultra-processed foods.
Sabrina Tavernisi 2:25
And tell me about this category. What are ultra-processed foods exactly?
Alice Callahan 2:30
So ultra-processed foods are this giant category of products that include kind of anything edible that's industrially produced, things that you can't make in your own kitchen if you tried because you wouldn't be able to get the ingredients and you don't have like the machinery necessary to make that product.
Sabrina Tavernisi 2:47
Okay, so these are foods that have really long lists of ingredients, the names of which you kind of don't understand what they are, right? Yeah. That's right. Okay, Alice, I went to the grocery store this morning knowing that you were going to come in and be recording with us. And we have some items here. Okay. I don't know if you can see this here. Do you see? Ringdings? Ringdings. Just a few ingredients. High fructose corn syrup, sodium aluminum phosphate, monocalcium phosphate, preservative sorbic acid, sodium cassonate, polysorbate 60, and dried eggs. Oh my goodness.
Alice Callahan 3:28
Yeah, that's definitely ultra-processed. You knew that.
Sabrina Tavernisi 3:32
I did. You're right. That's why I pulled it off the shelf. I'm just going to show you. Here is Wonder Bread monoglycerin. Let's see. Hold on a second. Sugar. Calcium peroxide? That sounds ultra-processed to me, Sabrina. Okay. Here's one. Looked healthy to me, and I often eat these things. Yoplait Original Made with Real Fruit Mountain Blueberry Yogurt. Okay. It has blueberries, milk, sugar, gelatin, cornstarch, pectin, natural flavor, vitamin A, acetate, and modified food starch.
Alice Callahan 4:14
Yeah. So that unfortunately is also ultra processed.
Sabrina Tavernisi 4:17
That is ultra processed. Okay. So everything in my grocery cart is ultra processed, even the yogurt. Pretty much.
Alice Callahan 4:23
Yeah. So that's one thing about this category is that it's so huge and it includes lots of foods that we may think of and sort of know are not very good for us, like soda and hot dogs and chips and cookies, but also these foods like flavored yogurts, which like you can have an unprocessed or a non-ultra-processed yogurt if it just has the milk and the bacteria starter culture in it. A plain yogurt would not be ultra-processed. But once you add the flavorings and the various ingredients that give it that creamy texture, it becomes ultra-processed. A packaged big brand whole wheat bread would also be ultra-processed probably because it has a few ingredients in it like emulsifiers that are important for the texture.

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