We’ve had some pretty heavy episodes lately, but this week we’re keeping it chill. And how can we get more chill than a conversation with international big wave explorer Garrett McNamara (and his adorable daughter)? Garrett has done some insane stuff in his days, much of which is documented in his wild memoir "Hound of the Sea: Wild Man. Wild Waves. Wild Wisdom." We’re talking about things like surfing Tsunami waves generated by caving glaciers in Alaska, getting smashed by a 50-foot wave at Mavericks, and breaking the world record for surfing the largest wave in Nazaré, Portugal. We also get into the fear of death that you feel facing these monstrous waves and how Garrett got over it, his top biohacks for healing and recovery, and when to rely on Western medicine versus Eastern healing philosophies. This episode is a whole lot of fun, with some absolutely wild stories, but there are also some great lessons to learn about maintaining your body and health. I mean, this dude was competing at the highest level of big wave surfing in his 50s with kids half his age, so I’m taking notes. 08:30 — Garrett’s upcoming documentary The documentary will cover surfers who have experienced injuries and were told not to go back to big wave surfing 12:05 — Garrett’s rough childhood and how that contributed to his determination to succeed He had to work for everything Developing an unwavering focus on achieving something great His experience with drugs 15:00 — Surfing tsunami waves created by a caving glacier The goal: surfing a wave created by a force other than a low-pressure system Possibly the craziest and dumbest thing Garrett’s done? 19:15 — Facing the fear of death (and getting over it) The process of mastering fear A short glossary of need-to-know surf terms Naming his kid “Barrel” 26:00 — What it was like riding the 78-foot wave in Nazaré Garrett thinks there have been bigger waves ridden since then He wasn’t even planning to surf that day He was actually really frustrated on the wave at first How do they measure big waves? It’s surprisingly controversial What’s it like being put on a pedestal within your field? "The Seven Spiritual Laws of Success: A Pocketbook Guide to Fulfilling Your Dreams" by Deepak Chopra The impact of drug legalization in Portugal 36:40 — The history of surfing and the first humans on record to do it It started in Hawaii as the sport of kings, and only kings could surf 37:50 — His deep relationship with the sea and why he connects so profoundly with the water Surfing was a long-time passion, becoming a pro was a fluke Garrett is actually allergic to saltwater McNamara means Hound of the Sea 41:15 — The epic tale of getting smashed by a 50-foot wave at Mavericks Being out in the deep water without a board Due to modern safety equipment, most wipeouts have been pretty fun, but this one was different

Ask this episode

“What did the council decide on item 42?” — answered with the speaker and the moment.

Transcript

Related