The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Episodes
TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing
09 Aug 2018
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing....
TBP 109 :: How Electrician Leif Gasch Sent His First 5.14b at Age 38
01 Aug 2018
Contributed by Lukas
In this interview I talk with 38-year-old full-time electrician, Leif Gasch, about how he went through 5 training cycles with some of the best trainer...
TBP 108 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Using Blood Flow Restriction during Performance Phases and for Injury Healing
25 Jul 2018
Contributed by Lukas
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about using blood flow restriction training to help heal injuries and to maintain strength during per...
TBP 107 :: Nathaniel Coleman on Staying Positive and Training to Win Comps
27 Jun 2018
Contributed by Lukas
In this interview I talk with 3x Bouldering Nationals Champ, Nathaniel Coleman, about how he stays positive during comps and how he trains for climbin...
TBP 106 :: Tiffany Melius on Training for the Olympics and Mental Coaching for Climbers
20 Jun 2018
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 105 :: Esther Smith - Treating Ankle and Foot Injuries for Climbers
30 May 2018
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 104 :: How Meagan Martin Juggles Pro Climbing, Ninja Warrior, Modeling, and Coaching
02 May 2018
Contributed by Lukas
In this interview I talk with American Ninja Warrior hero and pro climber, Meagan Martin, about how she juggles climbing and ANW with modeling and coa...
TBP 103 :: Dr. Kate Bennett on Eating Disorders and Climbers
25 Apr 2018
Contributed by Lukas
Dr. Kate Bennett is a PsyD psychologist in Denver who specializes in sports performance and eating disorders among athletes. You can see her vast arra...
TBP 102 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Rotator Cuff and Neck Strain
18 Apr 2018
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 101 :: How Alex Biale Comes Back Stronger After Serious Injuries
11 Apr 2018
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 100 :: Kyra Condie’s Hangboard and Campus Board Training Program
28 Mar 2018
Contributed by Lukas
In this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board rou...
TBP 099 :: Sasha DiGiulian on Current Training, FFA’s, Her Weight, and Nutrition
21 Mar 2018
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 098 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Preparing to Try Hard and Testing Whether or Not You Should
15 Mar 2018
Contributed by Lukas
Ask Matt :: Comparing Finger Training Protocols
07 Mar 2018
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 097 :: How to Overcome Fear in Climbing with Author Roanne van Voorst
01 Mar 2018
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 096 :: Sports Psychologist Chris Heilman on Imagery and Setting Realistic Goals
25 Jan 2018
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 095 :: Zahan Billimoria on Alpine Training with Minimal Equipment
10 Jan 2018
Contributed by Lukas
In this interview I talk with coach, climber, mountain guide, and skier, Zahan Billimoria about how he trains his athletes for mountain objectives usi...
TBP 094 :: Esther Smith - Treating Knee and Hip Injuries in Climbers
14 Dec 2017
Contributed by Lukas
This interview is all about hip and knee injuries. We talk about the most common hip and knee injuries among climbers, why we get them, what they fee...
TBP 093 :: Matt Pincus on Training Through Injuries and Transitioning from Bouldering to Routes
16 Nov 2017
Contributed by Lukas
Matt Pincus is a good friend of mine and he's my right hand man at TrainingBeta. He's basically the person who keeps this website running. He manages ...
TBP 092 :: Dr. Jared Vagy’s 4-Step Pyramid for Healing Injuries
19 Oct 2017
Contributed by Lukas
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about his 4-step pyramid for healing climbing injuries like shoulder impingement, ro...
TBP 091 :: Tom Randall and Ollie Torr on How Their Training Research Can Help Us
05 Oct 2017
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 090 :: Charlie Manganiello on Training for Multiple Sports
29 Sep 2017
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 089 :: Paige Claassen on What It Took to Send 5.14c
21 Sep 2017
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 088 :: How Adam Ondra Sent The World’s First 9c / 5.15d
11 Sep 2017
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 087 :: Paige Claassen Spells Out How To Successfully Project A Route
06 Sep 2017
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 086 :: How Paige Claassen Trained for Roof Climbing in Flatanger, Norway
29 Aug 2017
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 085 :: Esther Smith - Neck and Back Injuries in Climbers
17 Aug 2017
Contributed by Lukas
In this interview, I talk with Esther Smith, physical therapist, about common neck and back issues in climbers and how to rehab them.
TBP 084 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training
16 Aug 2017
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 083 :: Maureen Beck Climbs 5.11+ with One Hand
03 Aug 2017
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 082 :: Lee Sheftel on Climbing 5.13 into His 70’s
06 Jul 2017
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 081 :: Skin Care for Climbers with Justin Brown of Rhino Skin Solutions
09 Jun 2017
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 080 :: Steve Bechtel on How to Create Your Own Training Plan
01 Jun 2017
Contributed by Lukas
TBP 079 :: Daniel Woods on Training, Comps, Life Stuff, and The Pressure to Send
19 May 2017
Contributed by Lukas
In this interview with Daniel Woods, we talk about his training, comp climbing, his upcoming goals, and the pressure he feels to send.
TBP 078 :: Natasha Barnes Tells Us The 4 Best Lifts for Climbers
04 May 2017
Contributed by Lukas
I interviewed chiropractor Natasha Barnes about the 4 bests lifts for climbers, shoulder and finger injuries, and optimal body weight for climbers. ...
TBP 077 :: The Best Supplements for Climbers with Shannon O’Grady
25 Apr 2017
Contributed by Lukas
In this interview I talked with Shannon O'Grady, PhD, from Gnarly Nutrition about what she thinks are the best supplements for climbers.
TBP 076 :: Esther Smith on How to Heal Your Finger Injury
13 Apr 2017
Contributed by Lukas
In this interview, Physical Therapist Esther Smith talks about her protocol for healing finger injuries for climbers. She and Dan Mirsky used the prot...
New Mini Podcast Series with Mercedes Pollmeier: Using Body Awareness in Climbing and Beyond
07 Apr 2017
Contributed by Lukas
Body Awareness Interview Details What is body awareness? Why it's important in climbing 3 best movements to train overall body awareness How bo...
TBP 075 :: Madaleine Sorkin on Training for 5.13 Big Walls and Alpine
08 Mar 2017
Contributed by Lukas
About Madaleine Sorkin Madaleine Sorkin is a 35-year-old climber originally from D.C., who's known for her alpine and big wall ascents. She makes a ...
TBP 074 :: Climbing Training Success Stories with Mercedes Pollmeier
02 Mar 2017
Contributed by Lukas
About Mercedes Pollmeier This is my second interview with Mercedes Pollmeier, our in-house online climbing trainer here at TrainingBeta. She's a Stren...
TBP 073 :: Margarita Martinez on Climbing Her First 13d at Age 58
13 Feb 2017
Contributed by Lukas
About Margarita Martinez My first experience of Margarita Martinez was at the Red River Gorge, watching her dance her way up Bohica 5.13b. She ended ...
TBP 072 :: How Danny Robertson Broke A 10-Year Plateau
26 Jan 2017
Contributed by Lukas
About Danny Robertson Danny Robertson is a climber who lives in Carbondale, Colorado on the Western Slope. He's a 41-year-old Rifle regular who's ...
TBP 071 :: Physical Therapist Esther Smith on Elbow Pain
06 Jan 2017
Contributed by Lukas
About Esther Smith Esther Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner, and the owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in S...
TBP 070 :: Josh Dreher on Losing Weight and Home Gym Training
22 Dec 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Josh Dreher Josh Dreher is, among many other things, the husband of Teal Dreher, who was my first "normal person" interview on the podcast. I w...
TBP 069 :: Jess Simmons on the Benefits of Yoga for Climbing
12 Dec 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Jess Simmons Jess Simmons is a Registered Yoga Teacher (200-RYT) and Personal Trainer (NASM CPT) on a quest to climb harder and healthier. She...
TBP 068 :: Alex Stiger on How Coaching Kids Made Her Stronger
30 Nov 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Alex Stiger Alex Stiger is a good friend of mine and one of the most interesting people I know. She's been a mentor to me in climbing, ridin...
TBP 067 :: Sports Psychologist Chris Heilman on Breathing and Staying Calm
15 Nov 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Dr. Chris Heilman Dr. Christina Heilman is a Sports Psychologist, as well as a personal trainer (CSCS and ATC) who earned her PhD in Sport and ...
TBP 066 :: Physical Therapist Esther Smith Talks About Shoulders
02 Nov 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Esther Smith Esther Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner, and the owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in ...
TBP 065 :: Beth Rodden on Big Walls, Injuries, and Becoming A Mom
27 Oct 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Beth Rodden Beth Rodden is a climbing icon and absolutely a hero of mine. She broke barriers for women in sport climbing and big wall climbing...
TBP 064 :: Dan Mirsky on BD Bootcamp Success and Becoming A Trainer
19 Oct 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Dan Mirsky Dan Mirsky is an understated crusher. I’ve been watching him gracefully take down rock climbs all over the country for the last 1...
TBP 063 :: The Anderson Brothers’ Evolving Training Philosophies and New Research
14 Oct 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About The Anderson Brothers For the uninitiated, Mark and Mike are the Rock Prodigy guys, the authors of the very popular book, The Rock Climber’...
TBP 062 :: Colette McInerney on BD Bootcamp and Living the Dream
07 Oct 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Colette McInerney Colette McInerney is a 34-year-old climber who's been living on the road climbing for the past decade or so. She makes a...
TBP 061 :: Jonathan Siegrist’s Minimal Training Regime and Meticulous Skin Care
21 Sep 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Jonathan Siegrist Jonathan Siegrist (or J-Star) is a 31-year-old professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. He grew up with his ever-psy...
TBP 060 :: Sam Elias on Taming His Emotions to Climb Harder
12 Sep 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Sam Elias One of my first memories of Sam Elias was this: he was climbing on The Crew (14c) in Rifle, and he'd skipped 3 clips in a row on t...
TBP 059 :: Access Fund on Going from Gym to Crag Responsibly
30 Aug 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About The Access Fund The Access Fund is an organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open for climbers while keeping land owners happy with t...
Ask Kris 011 :: Online Training Vs In-Person Training
15 Jul 2016
Contributed by Lukas
Date: July 15th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page Online Training Vs In-Person Training for Climbing This week in our Ask K...
TBP 058 :: Joe Kinder on The BD Bootcamp, Route Development, and Being a Pro
11 Jul 2016
Contributed by Lukas
Date: July 11th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page About Joe Kinder This is an interview with Joe Kinder, a 36-year-old c...
Ask Kris 010 :: Training on a Time Budget
30 Jun 2016
Contributed by Lukas
Date: June 23rd, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page Training for Climbing on A Time Budget This week, in our tenth mini Ask ...
TBP 057 :: Joshua Rucci Compares Training College Athletes to Climbers
28 Jun 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Joshua Rucci This is an interview with Joshua Rucci, a collegiate Strength and Conditioning Coach in the Southeastern Conference (in Athens). ...
Ask Kris 009 :: Efficient Home Training for Climbing
23 Jun 2016
Contributed by Lukas
Efficient Home Training for Climbing This week, in our ninth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how you can train at home efficiently, no mat...
TBP 056 :: Our Shoulder Surgeon (Dr. Tom Hackett) on Shoulder Injuries
21 Jun 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Dr. Tom Hackett This is an interview with Dr. Tom Hackett, a shoulder, elbow, and knee surgeon who performed all three of my husband's and my s...
Ask Kris 008 :: Heart Rate Monitors and Lactic Acid Thresholds
16 Jun 2016
Contributed by Lukas
How to Use A Heart Rate Monitor for Training and How to Increase Your Lactic Acid Threshold This week, in our eighth mini episode of Ask Kris, we tal...
TBP 055 :: Lynn Hill (need I say more?)
14 Jun 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Lynn Hill This is an interview with Lynn Hill, who's arguably the most famous climber of all time. She was the first person to free the Nose on...
Ask Kris 007 :: Are You Overtraining?
09 Jun 2016
Contributed by Lukas
Are You Overtraining? This week, in our seventh mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about the signs and symptoms of overtraining, and how much rest p...
TBP 054 :: Ryan Vachon on Mixed Climbing Training
07 Jun 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Ryan Vachon This is an interview with Ryan Vachon, a 43-year-old who won the Ouray Mixed Climbing Competition this year (2016) and sent Saphir...
Ask Kris 006 :: Improving Overall Fitness for Climbing
26 May 2016
Contributed by Lukas
Improving Overall Fitness for Climbing This week, in our sixth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve overall fitness for climbin...
TBP 053 :: Aaron Mulkey on Ice Climbing Training
24 May 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Aaron Mulkey This is an interview with Aaron Mulkey, the 39-year-old who was dubbed the "Patriarch of Cody Ice" for his 100+ first ascents in t...
Ask Kris 005 :: Improving Core Strength for Climbing
16 May 2016
Contributed by Lukas
Improving Core Strength for Climbing This week, in our fifth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve core strength for climbing. Ha...
TBP 052 :: How Mathilde Becerra Is Top 10 in World for Lead Climbing
05 May 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Mathilde Becerra This is an interview with 25 year-old Mathilde Becerra, who's on the French National Climbing team. In 2015, Mathilde ended u...
Ask Kris 004 :: Shoulder Care for Climbers
02 May 2016
Contributed by Lukas
Shoulder Care for ClimbersThis week, in our fourth mini episode of Ask Kris,wedecided to talk about shoulders - one of my favorite topics.Alot of cl...
TBP 051 :: Sean McColl Tells Us How He Trains
14 Apr 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Sean McColl This is an interview with 28 year-old Sean McColl, a well-known Canadian climber who's accomplished amazing things both outdoors an...
Ask Kris 003 :: Training for Bouldering vs Routes
12 Apr 2016
Contributed by Lukas
Training for Bouldering vs Routes This week, in our third mini episode of Ask Kris, we decided to talk about the similarities and differences between...
TBP 050 :: V8 Boulderer Teal Dreher Compares Training Programs
07 Apr 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Teal Dreher This is an interview with Teal Dreher, a V8 boulderer who climbed through the grades in just a few years using various training prog...
Ask Kris 002 :: The 3 Best Lifts for Climbers
05 Apr 2016
Contributed by Lukas
New Ask Kris Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a s...
TBP 049 :: Trainer Mercedes Pollmeier on ARCing and Training for 5.12
31 Mar 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Mercedes Pollmeier This is an interview with Mercedes Pollmeier, a Strength and Conditioning coach out of Seattle, Washington. She has a Mas...
Ask Kris :: Finger Strength Training Mini Episode
29 Mar 2016
Contributed by Lukas
New Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific su...
TBP 048 :: Neil Gresham on Training for 5.11 and 5.12
24 Mar 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Neil Gresham Neil Gresham is a British climber and trainer who's been training people for about 20 years now. He's the training columnist at...
TBP 047 :: Jorg Verhoeven on The Nose, V15, and World Cup Training
14 Mar 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Jorg Verhoeven Jorg Verhoeven is a professional Dutch climber who lives and trains in Austria. He's done about 150 world cups (in both boulderi...
TBP 046 :: Neely Quinn on Weight Loss for Climbers
07 Mar 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Neely Quinn Neely is your host for the podcast every week, but she's also a practicing nutrition therapist, and has been since about 2007. She'...
TBP 045 :: Ethan Pringle on Jumbo Love 15b, The Nest V15, and Depression
24 Feb 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Ethan Pringle Ethan Pringle is a 29 year-old professional rock climber who's had immense success in the competition scene as well as on real ro...
TBP 044 :: Matt Helliker on Training for Alpine Climbing
16 Feb 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Matt Helliker Matt Helliker is a notable alpinist who's done quite a few first ascents. He's originally from England, but now lives, climbs, an...
TBP 043 :: Neely Explains the Ketogenic Diet
10 Feb 2016
Contributed by Lukas
I've been hearing more and more about the ketogenic diet in the climbing world. For instance, Dave MacLeod and Neil Gresham have had success with it a...
TBP 042 :: David Mason on Training for V14
03 Feb 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About David Mason David Mason is a British boulderer who's climbed up to V13/14 (King of Limbs in South Africa) and many boulders between V10 and V13...
TBP 041 :: Matt Lloyd and His Climbing/CrossFit Hybrid Gym
27 Jan 2016
Contributed by Lukas
Date: January 27th, 2016 About Matt Lloyd Matt Lloyd is a long-time friend of my husband, Seth, having started climbing on the same team in Denver a...
TBP 040 :: Nina Williams on Training for V13, Comps, and Diet
06 Jan 2016
Contributed by Lukas
About Nina Williams Nina Williams is a boulderer (and budding trad climber) who lives and trains in Boulder, CO. She's climbed V13 and she won the Da...
TBP 039 :: Dave MacLeod on Training, Injuries, Diet, and Fear
31 Dec 2015
Contributed by Lukas
About Dave MacLeod Dave MacLeod is one of the most famous climbers, having put up many first ascents of sport, boulder, mixed, and trad climbs. Ho...
TBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Nerdy Training Methods
16 Dec 2015
Contributed by Lukas
About Tom Randall Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and s...
TBP 037 :: Thomasina Pidgeon on Climbing V12 at Age 40
07 Dec 2015
Contributed by Lukas
Podcast is on iTunes is HERE Direct Download: LINK Date: December 7th, 2015 About Thomasina Pidgeon Thomasina Pidgeon is a Canadian boulderer - o...
TBP 036 :: Steve Bechtel Interview #2
25 Nov 2015
Contributed by Lukas
About Steve Bechtel I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel for a second time. Steve is a long-time climber and trainer who...
TBP 035 :: Isabelle Faus on Sending V14
18 Nov 2015
Contributed by Lukas
About Isabelle Faus Isabelle Faus is a 22 year-old boulderer out of Boulder, CO. (Yes, I know that a lot of my guests are from Boulder, but there are...
TBP 034 :: Justen Sjong on Improving Your Mental Game
11 Nov 2015
Contributed by Lukas
About Justen Sjong Justen Sjong is a prolific climbing coach out of Colorado, who's also had a successful climbing career, having established up to ...
TBP 033 :: Will Anglin on Training Efficiently
04 Nov 2015
Contributed by Lukas
TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes Date: November 4th, 2015 (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.) About Will Anglin Will Anglin is a...
TBP 032 :: Nathan Drolet (Average Joe Climber) Trains Smart and Climbs Hard
05 Oct 2015
Contributed by Lukas
Date: October 5th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing...
TBP 031 :: Ben Moon on Training and Climbing Through The Decades
20 Aug 2015
Contributed by Lukas
Direct Download: LINKDate: August 20th, 2015 About Ben Moon Ben Moon is an iconic climber from England who's accomplished much in his 40-year climb...
TBP 030 :: Jon Cardwell on How He Climbs Hard Routes and Boulders
12 Aug 2015
Contributed by Lukas
Direct Download: LINKDate: August 12th, 2015 (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.) About Jon Cardwell Jon Cardwell is a 26 year...
TBP 029 :: Climbing Trainer Adam Macke on MAT and Weight Training
29 Jul 2015
Contributed by Lukas
Date: July 29th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing po...
TBP 028 :: Neely Quinn on Nutrition for Climbers
24 Jul 2015
Contributed by Lukas
About Neely Quinn I (Neely Quinn) am a Nutrition Therapist and a 5.13 rock climber, owner of TrainingBeta, and someone who's obsessed over food, hea...
TBP 027 :: Kevin Jorgeson Talks about The Dawn Wall and Highballs
09 Jul 2015
Contributed by Lukas
Date: July 9th, 2015 About Kevin Jorgeson After the Dawn Wall, Kevin Jorgeson needs no introduction really. Even my grandmother knows his name (and I...
TBP 026 :: Dr. Lisa Erikson on Preventing and Healing Injuries
03 Jul 2015
Contributed by Lukas
Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be rea...
TBP 025:: Steve Maisch
22 Jun 2015
Contributed by Lukas
About Steve Maisch Steve Maisch is a local SLC strong man and renowned training guru. If you’ve ever run into Steve at the cliff, you know how ...
TBP 024::Hazel Findlay on Humility and Being Brave
10 Jun 2015
Contributed by Lukas
Date: June 10th, 2015 About Hazel Findlay By the time she was 23, Hazel Findlay had made a name for herself as the first woman to send E9 (basically...