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This American Life

628: In the Shadow of the City

15 Mar 2026

Transcription

Transcript generated automatically by AI and may contain errors.

Chapter 1: What is the significance of the no man's land in every city?

1.195 - 22.342 Ira Glass

Okay, this happens to be Chicago, but every city has a place like this. That weird, desolate area at the far end of town. We're a half mile west of the old abandoned steel mills. We're a half mile north of landfills where methane fires used to burn. Just south of the auto junkyard. Just east of the site of the old city dump.

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23.163 - 33.302 Ira Glass

Where there was a mountain of raw garbage that would stink up the neighborhood whenever the wind would blow in the wrong direction. Everybody down here called it Mount Passini. For the Ottoman who let the city put it here.

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34.143 - 50.642 Charlie Gregerson

You'll notice all these, what would you call it, tire marks. This street is used for drag racing year-round. Really? Yeah, because it's basically far enough away from the police that they don't do anything about it.

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51.753 - 66.136 Ira Glass

My guide is Charlie Gregerson, who grew up down here. He shows me where a lake, like Calumet, used to be back in the 40s when he was a kid. He'd go fishing on a rowboat with his dad. Then the city started filling in huge sections of the lake with garbage and incinerator ash.

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66.857 - 79.077 Ira Glass

He'd come here in the 70s and see bulldozers pushing around the rubble of some of Chicago's great buildings, which had been recently demolished. Louis Sullivan masterpieces, like the Stock Exchange building and the Garrick Theater. This is where they ended up.

79.529 - 94.72 Charlie Gregerson

Now, show me, we're standing here, where were all the buildings being dumped and what did that look like? Right here at what was the north end of the dump. And actually, I picked up a few pieces of stock exchange ornament right out of...

Chapter 2: What unexpected adventure does Alex Zharov experience in Jamaica Bay?

95.392 - 106.659 Charlie Gregerson

But of course, most of it had been ground right into the dirt because they had bulldozers that would just keep on. They would dump the stuff in piles and the bulldozers would just flatten it all out.

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106.679 - 121.286 Ira Glass

And so there'd be this like Louis Sullivan, you know, terracotta ornament just sticking out there. Yeah. And so walking around when there's these, you know, pieces of buildings sticking up, I mean, it just seems like it just must have been such a strange scene, like this apocalyptic, you know, death of a city.

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121.466 - 141.599 Charlie Gregerson

Oh, yeah. Well, I remember seeing one of these big Phoenix columns that I knew had come out of the Garrick Theater was just sticking out of the ground. Two of those in the Garrick Theater distributed the weight of the upper floors that were over the stage. One of those was just sticking out at about a 45-degree angle out of the ground.

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143.322 - 147.849 Charlie Gregerson

And at that point, the Garrick had been gone for almost 10 years.

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153.817 - 169.421 Ira Glass

There were once big plans for this area, for canals and waterways, a harbor that never really worked out. There's zoning maps of the city that show streets and complete neighborhoods, a whole grid of them, that nobody ever got around to building. Instead, now, on top of all the trash, stands a golf course.

170.603 - 198.298 Ira Glass

Charlie says that from the clubhouse, he gets exactly the same view that he used to get back when he and his dad took out the rowboat. It's the same spot. That's where the lake once was. You can see clear to downtown. So far away, might as well be another city. Well, today on our program, we have stories from several places like this, from the shadow of the city, that weird no-man's land.

198.869 - 206.08 Ira Glass

where it always feels like secret stuff is happening, you know? Just out of sight. WBEC Chicago, it's This American Life. I'm Ira Glass.

Chapter 3: Who is Mr. Chen and what is his mission on the Nanjing bridge?

206.521 - 228.474 Ira Glass

Our program today was first broadcast a few years ago. It's in three acts. Act one, Brooklyn Archipelago. In that act, some passenger sets sail one day on a three-hour tour. A three-hour tour. And end up getting lost in the wilderness. One fears for his life on a string of islands that is just outside a very, very big city. Act two, troubled bridge over water.

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229.235 - 256.247 Ira Glass

A guy goes to a remote spot to help people who do not want to be helped. Act three, please in my backyard. Controversy over industrial odors coming from a factory. Odors that for once people want to keep coming. Stay with us.

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260.53 - 268.579 Kai Risdahl

Everybody has a hot take on the economy. And whether you're curious about inflation, trade wars, or the markets, what you need is reporting you can trust.

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Chapter 4: What surprising twist occurs during the factory emission crackdown in Chicago?

269.24 - 285.559 Kai Risdahl

Hi, I'm Kai Risdahl, the host of Marketplace. Our award-winning reporters talk to everybody from CEOs to farmers to help you understand how the economy takes shape in the real world. You'll be smarter every time you listen. And these days, that's priceless. Listen to Marketplace on your favorite podcast app.

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290.652 - 301.767 Ira Glass

This is American Life. Today's show is a rerun. Act One, Brooklyn Archipelago. Brett Martin has this story, which takes place on the outskirts of, well, perhaps you've already figured out which city.

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Chapter 5: How does Alex Zharov's journey reflect the theme of adventure and survival?

302.709 - 324.804 Brett Martin

Listen, it happens. You go out for a night with your friends and you wind up drunk, in your underwear, soaking wet, covered with blood, and shipwrecked on a desert island, all within sight of the Empire State Building. These things happen, or at least they did happen, to Alec Jaroff. Alex is 17 years old. He moved to the US from a small town in the Ukraine when he was nine.

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325.485 - 339.745 Brett Martin

He's skinny and wears tie-dyed t-shirts, an unmanageable spray of frizzy blonde hair, and a valiant, if not altogether successful, starter mustache. And, well, he can probably introduce himself better than I can. Here's how he responds when I ask him to state his name for the record.

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339.843 - 351.739 Alex Zharov

My name is Alex Zharov and I love to have very radical experiences in life. And I consider myself to be a psychedelic artistically productive person.

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356.184 - 373.324 Brett Martin

Here are a few other things about Alex. He lives with his cute older girlfriend and his exceptionally patient parents in a small apartment in the midwood section of Brooklyn. Instead of going to high school, he's enrolled in an internet homeschooling program. He's at work on a science fiction novel and has logged several hundred in-flight hours as a student pilot.

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374.165 - 378.674 Brett Martin

But most of Alex's time is spent as a guitarist, singer, and songwriter for his band, E Buffalo.

Chapter 6: What lessons can be learned from Mr. Chen's approach to saving lives?

379.716 - 403.903 Brett Martin

When I went to see them play at a two-day Russian rock festival last fall, I learned several things. First, there are many, many ex-Soviet immigrants living in Brooklyn. Second, they all very earnestly want to rock. And third, Alex Zharov, whether he's writhing on his back on stage or reclining in the dressing room with a beer and a cigarette, is kind of a superstar.

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407.68 - 420.155 Brett Martin

Before we get to our story, the other key person you'll need to meet is someone who entered Alex's life at a crucial moment years ago, when Alex first came to the States. Alex had an awkward adjustment. He fought in school and was kind of depressed. He was bored.

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421.156 - 436.697 Brett Martin

Then one day Alex was walking along the Brighton Beach boardwalk and saw a group of older guys collecting money for something called the Russian Punk Rock Club of America. Older guys like 25 and 30 years old. Alex was 12. One of the musicians he met that day was Roman Gajalov, who immediately took to the young Alex.

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436.937 - 448.474 Roman Gajalov

Well, he had this blink in his eyes. Sometimes you see an extraordinary person, and you kind of know this. He didn't appear to us as a 12-year-old at that moment.

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Chapter 7: How does the chocolate factory's story highlight environmental issues in Chicago?

448.595 - 466.178 Roman Gajalov

At 12 years old, he was writing songs that I was writing at 18. And after this, we've been together all the time. We call him Hryusha. And what does that mean? Khrushchev means little piglet, little piglet.

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467.66 - 484.144 Brett Martin

Under his new friend's tutelage, Alex began walking around in an old Bolshevik-style hat and trench coat. And his friends gave him books. Dostoevsky, Tolkien, Guides to Slavic Paganism, The Beats, and also Robinson Crusoe and Treasure Island. Alex was particularly fond of those.

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487.195 - 507.858 Brett Martin

And our story today, our own seafaring tale, happens on a boat that Roman owns, a 25-foot white sailboat, which Alex likes to refer to as the yacht. One cool evening last May, Alex, Roman, and another friend named Alex, Alex Lubachansky, decided to take a nice little boat trip in Jamaica Bay, the body of water that wraps around the southern end of Brooklyn. Here's Alex.

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508.159 - 526.36 Alex Zharov

The three of us decided to just get like 10 gallons of gas, and my friend Roman, he got a bottle of rum, and we got two cans of food, and we just decided to have a cool trip on the yacht. And I started saying, oh, our goal is the open ocean. Let's sail to Poland, I told them.

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527.201 - 529.203 Brett Martin

Roman had a slightly less ambitious agenda.

529.584 - 539.055 Roman Gajalov

Plan was just to go to the bridge, under the Rockaway Bridge, then turn around, and then come back. It should have taken about 40 minutes, yeah.

545.617 - 547.379 Brett Martin

Things started to go wrong almost immediately.

Chapter 8: What reflections does the host share about adventure and youth at the end of the episode?

548.079 - 557.929 Brett Martin

Before they even left the marina, Roman, who'd been making headway through the bottle of rum, fell into the water and they had to haul him back in. He was clearly in no shape to drive. This is Alex.

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558.509 - 573.784 Alex Zharov

He got drunk and he just was babbling something, laughing, like he said, don't go there, don't go there. And he was constantly saying, don't hit the shallows. He was already like, he didn't control the situation by that time.

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578.354 - 583.781 Brett Martin

As a responsible journalist, I should say for the record that Roman does have one objection to Alex's version of events.

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584.401 - 605.087 Roman Gajalov

It wasn't a rum, by the way. It was a cognac. I don't know why everybody puts rum. So it was a cognac. You're sure? It was a Latrec, yes. It was Latrec cognac. I don't know how come it's become rum. It's probably Alex told it was rum, but it was cognac. Not a little bit. It was a lot. We was out of commission. I was out of commission.

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610.552 - 629.792 Alex Zharov

Alex and Alex had had a few drinks themselves. But we were perfectly sober and everything. We might have had a few drinks, but we were perfectly sober. But neither of you knows how to drive a boat? No, no. But we got a hold of it. It wasn't that hard. So we knew how to drive it. So it didn't seem pretty hard. You turn on the motor, you turn the boat, it turns. Cool.

629.941 - 648.59 Brett Martin

Somehow they managed to get out of the marina, gun the engine, and take off across the water toward the Marine Park Bridge in the distance. Once there, they decided to try to sail to Brighton Beach and headed toward a landmass, but they got confused and turned back to open water. They drank some rum, or maybe cognac. One way or another, they drank a lot of it.

649.391 - 663.16 Brett Martin

At one point, they almost crashed into a small island. Gas was running low, but they figured that if worse came to worse, they could always put up the sails and still make it home. Then they got caught in a strong current that turned the boat in circles. The perfect time, you would think, to begin to panic.

663.921 - 686.582 Brett Martin

Or, if you're the kind of person who forgets trouble the moment you're out of it, or even while you're in it, the perfect time to shoot off all the boat's flares into the water, just for fun. Finally, the series of mistakes reached a critical mass. They had no cell phone. Roman's had died when he fell in the water. No flares, no captain and almost no gas.

687.263 - 688.805 Brett Martin

Even Alex had to admit they were in trouble.

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