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Today, Explained

Chems in your cosmetics

10 May 2026

Transcription

Chapter 1: What is the main topic discussed in this episode?

0.031 - 20.922 Jonquilyn Hill

Support for Explain It To Me comes from Starbucks. Vibing to the hook of your favorite song, stepping outside and immediately feeling the sun on your face, sipping a refreshing drink. Those are the moments that energize us. And if that third one sounds particularly enticing, you might be due for a new energy refresher from Starbucks.

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21.463 - 29.194 Jonquilyn Hill

It's the flavors you know and love, and now with a boost of energy. Try the all-new energy refreshers at Starbucks.

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30.743 - 48.634 Unknown

I have my laptop and charger and phone so that I can get some work done.

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48.766 - 73.257 Jonquilyn Hill

A couple weeks ago, I packed up a tote bag and got ready for an all-day affair. Snacks, so I have some almonds. Gonna get coffee and a breakfast sandwich on the way so that I don't get hangry. The weather warmed up and it was time to get my hair braided. Also probably Tylenol because sometimes the braids are tight and I get a little headache. My go-to styles changed through the years.

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73.818 - 97.622 Jonquilyn Hill

Brandy-inspired box braids in elementary school. Alicia Keys-inspired cornrows in middle school. A little break when my mom finally let me chemically straighten my hair with a relaxer in high school. And then, in college, when I wanted to stop relaxing my hair, Senegalese twists. Today, I'm going with passion twists. What color do you want? Maybe like a brownish or a reddish.

99.104 - 124.502 Jonquilyn Hill

or like a brown if there's that too. Eight hours, two sets of hands, and a lot of almonds later, I was ready for summer. Braids feel like a smart choice for me. The ends of my hair are tucked away safe and sound, no damage from heating tools, and none of the toxic chemicals from relaxing it, right? A new study raises concerns about some hair extensions and wigs.

124.762 - 136.485 Unknown

A Houston researcher is a part of a team that tested dozens of hair care products and found that over 90% of them contained harmful chemicals. And now some of those effects include birth defects and even cancer.

139.688 - 158.693 Jonquilyn Hill

I asked Zoe, one of my raiders, about the headlines. After all, she's hands-on with these products for hours on end. They always find something about our hair or our products to warn us and say it's bad. I mean, it hasn't killed anybody yet, so it's not that I know of.

162.757 - 183.844 Jonquilyn Hill

I'm Jonquan Hill, and this week on Explain It to Me from Vox, we find out about the chemicals inside the cosmetics we put on our bodies. Things like lotion, makeup, mousse, and yes, even braiding hair. To start, I wanted to talk with a scientist behind that research.

Chapter 2: What chemicals are found in hair extensions and wigs?

677.152 - 688.028 Jonquilyn Hill

Mariah is also the author of the book They Poison the World, Life and Death in the Age of Forever Chemicals. And she traces how these ingredients got into the products we use every day.

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690.657 - 716.217 Mariah Blake

There are a number of chemicals that are commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products that are known to be harmful. Formaldehyde, phthalates, parabens, and what are commonly known as forever chemicals. The technical term for them is PFAS. So these are substances that are commonly found in cosmetics. Why are those chemicals in there?

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716.578 - 718.522 Jonquilyn Hill

What do they do for the cosmetics?

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718.862 - 743.589 Mariah Blake

So they're used for various reasons in cosmetics. So some of them are preservatives. Some of them make them go on your skin more smoothly. In the case of Forever Chemicals or PFAS, they're often used because they make cosmetics stay on longer. So that waterproof mascara, that... Foundation that stays on all day. Most of those products contain PFAS.

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743.609 - 764.064 Mariah Blake

That is the reason that they stay on your skin so long. And even, for example, dental floss, glide dental floss, dental floss that goes through your teeth super smoothly, that's because it has these chemicals in it. Dental floss? Dental floss. Also tampons, period underwear, band-aids. Oh, my gosh.

764.824 - 782.02 Jonquilyn Hill

It's not just like, hey, your makeup, hey, these things, you know, that some would say you don't necessarily need. But even the stuff that you do need, it's there. Oh, yeah. When did these synthetic chemicals first start appearing in our products?

782.52 - 807.86 Mariah Blake

Synthetic materials really had a boom after World War II. So prior to World War II, there were a handful of synthetic materials that were used in everyday life. But Germany was actually the leading producer of chemicals and synthetic materials worldwide. And so the allied countries, including the United States, had a blockade on Germany. They were not buying German products.

808.1 - 813.775 Unknown

There's one purpose, one single objective. to choke the life out of German trade and industry.

813.995 - 823.807 Mariah Blake

And that led to a shortage of the synthetic materials that the U.S. needed for war. And so the U.S. government ended up spending huge sums developing synthetic materials.

Chapter 3: How does the study on hair products impact Black women?

1049.281 - 1064.318 Mariah Blake

It's really almost... impossible. For contrast, the European Union has regulated 1,400 chemicals in cosmetics, but they proactively test the ingredients in cosmetics for safety.

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1066.742 - 1075.814 Unknown

For the first time in more than 80 years, consumers will finally know more about what's in the makeup and other personal care products they use.

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1076.075 - 1086.876 Mariah Blake

So in 2022, there was a law passed to modernize cosmetic regulation. And that was really the first significant change to the way we regulate personal care products since the 1930s.

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1087.778 - 1100.841 Unknown

Among the long list of provisions, it includes things like documenting and reporting of serious adverse events, following good manufacturing practices for all facilities, listing products and ingredients used in every formula,

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1101.125 - 1128.72 Mariah Blake

And it gives the FDA more power over things like recall, but it doesn't compel the FDA to review the safety of chemicals in cosmetics or restrict those that are harmful. So the FDA still has really, really limited authority. That law did require the FDA to study the effects of forever chemicals or PFAS in cosmetics, so how widely used they are and potential health effects.

1129.262 - 1135.114 Mariah Blake

But otherwise, the FDA has basically the same authority that it did a century ago.

1136.714 - 1143.105 Jonquilyn Hill

And where do things stand now? What's the outlook for cosmetic regulation in 2026?

1143.425 - 1166.642 Mariah Blake

So in the absence of federal laws protecting the public from chemicals, states have stepped in and begun very aggressively in some case regulating chemicals and consumer goods and cosmetics. So, so far, 17 states have adopted more than 40 laws regulating restricting toxic chemicals in personal care products.

1167.523 - 1190.171 Mariah Blake

And that's happening largely in response to ordinary citizens who are concerned about toxic chemicals, because the survey data tells us that this is an issue that concerns everybody, regardless of their political backgrounds. Nobody wants their children being exposed to toxic chemicals in the home. Nobody wants their body lotion to be exposing them to toxic chemicals.

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