Jessica Batalana
Appearances
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
From King Arthur Baking Company, this is Things Bakers Know. I'm Jessica Batalana, staff editor at King Arthur Baking.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Very light.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Oh, yes. What are some easy but impactful decorations that you like to do? Like if somebody is not like, so, you know, confident in their piping skills, what's a way to decorate a cake that will still look really nice and special, but maybe is like a lower lift?
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Yeah, because I get anxious about the piping. I think a lot of people get anxious about the piping.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
My mom's cakes, she would always wrap a quarter in a piece of tinfoil and then she would slide the quarter into the cake before she frosted it. And then the whole cake would get frosted, kind of like a fev in a king cake. And so then, you know, when you're cutting up the cake, if you were the person that got the wrapped up quarter in there, you would feel like extra special and super lucky.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Right.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Yes, absolutely. So good quality ingredients then and like a recipe that you can trust, right? Like you're not like pulling something random off of the internet and hoping for the best. Oh no, no random. Yeah. You're going to your treasury of Southern baking, Cheryl, and picking out like a good recipe.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
But actually, Bronwyn, I would love to hear you talk a little bit about what kind of trends you think you're seeing in cakes right now.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Oh, interesting. And I feel like, Cheryl, you know, you sort of come from, you know, I think maybe a different perspective because I when I think about the cakes, you know, the cakes that are in your book, the cakes that I have, you know, seen you post the cake recipe that you have on the King Arthur site for your coconut cake. I think about them as as pretty classic cakes.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Yeah. Oh, man, I wish that we could just hang out and talk all afternoon. But I suppose I've got to let you two go. Big thanks to today's guests. You can find Bronwyn on Instagram at Bayou St. Cake, where you can also sign up for her fabulous newsletter. Cheryl Day is at Cheryl Day on Instagram, and you can find some of her recipes on King Arthur's website, also linked in the show notes.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Cheryl, Bronwyn, thank you so much for talking cakes with me today.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
God, I love those. I use my offset spatula, I think, every day.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Yeah, so spread butter on toast to help my kids pry apart their Lego bricks.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
It's really a multi-purpose tool.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
I know. I know. Also maybe a choking hazard, but you know. I sort of just remember the excitement of like, oh, who's going to get it? You know, and I think that is the thing about birthday cakes, whether they're store-bought birthday cakes, box cakes, homemade cakes. They just inspire such nostalgia because we remember them as some of the first sweet things we had as kids.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
And of course, if you have a baking question that simply cannot wait, you can always reach out to our Baker's Hotline via phone, email, or online chat. Just go to kingarthurbaking.com slash bakers dash hotline. That's kingarthurbaking.com slash bakers dash hotline. Or call us 855-371-2253. That's 2253 as in bake. Let's hear our first question.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
I mean, it's a great question. And I'm sure it's a question a lot of people have because the flour literally has cake in the name, right? So you think like, of course, it's got to be the choice for a cake recipe. And, you know, what distinguishes cake flour from, say, all-purpose flour or bread flour is the amount of protein there. in that flour.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
So King Arthur's cake flour has a protein content of 10% compared to our all purpose flour, which has a protein content of 11.7%. And then bread flour has higher still. And the lower protein content in a cake flour means that it has less gluten forming potential. And of course, like gluten are the web of strands that give a cake structure. You need some gluten in order to make a cake flour.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
rise and behave like you want a cake to behave but you don't want so much gluten that it makes the crumb of your cake tough right so that's why you don't see a cake recipe that calls for bread flour because that would produce too much gluten in the batter and make it really tough and have a chewy you know yeah like you don't want to chew on your birthday cake no you don't
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
But all-purpose flour and cake flour, conversely, because they have the lower protein, they give you a cake that has that nice kind of tender crumb. And so can you substitute all-purpose flour in a recipe that calls for cake flour? Yes, I think you can do that and you'll have success. It might be slightly less tender, but it's not going to make a significant difference.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
But I wouldn't swap in, say, bread flour for cake flour because there you definitely will notice a difference. It will be a tougher cake. So cake flour, great for cakes, but not essential for cakes.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
I'm impressed that she thought to check the leavener, though. Who amongst us does that? I never do. I always just I just hope for the best.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
You should treat yourself.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
I also think sometimes, and this has happened to me, because she says that it was rising beautifully in the oven, it's possible that she took it out of the oven a little too soon before the cake structure has set up entirely. So if the cake's just a little bit underbaked, it looks great. And maybe you've done the toothpick test, which I sometimes think is not as reliable as you want it to be.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
But what I look for with doneness is a cake that's sort of pulling away from the sides of the pan. And then I'll press gently on the center of the layer and just like it should spring back a little bit. You know, you want it to you don't want to sink in. And so I wait for those signs of doneness before I pull it out, because if you pull it out before it's really, truly set, like it'll look great.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
And then as it cools, it just collapses. It's happened to me. And it's such a bummer.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Oh yeah, break out the maple syrup.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Dense, but not in a bad way. I feel like not like a tightly knit crumb, but it retains some like plushness.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Will you tell people that don't know what reverse creaming is and how and why you do it?
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Yeah, and I think reverse creaming is a fun technique to try if you haven't tried it before because it does really give you a cake texture unlike any other.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Good luck.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
And today we're talking about a very important topic, birthday cake.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
There's no such thing. Okay.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Amazing. I mean, I have made a lot of birthday cakes for former partners and with various degrees of success. I feel like it's kind of a high stakes thing to do. And you're right. It's a total act of love to make a birthday cake for somebody else. And, you know, this birthday cake tradition is not new.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Now, the one pitfall of of the pie, although I do, obviously, I like it. Who doesn't like a chocolate cream pie? Only a maniac. But I do think it's a little trickier to put the candles in a pie. You know, like how do you stick them into that cloud of whipped cream? But, you know, that's OK. I'm getting so old that maybe I don't need the full complement of candles edge to edge anymore.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
David, we've just about reached the end of this episode. But before we go, I have one final question for you. What are you baking this week?
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
I want to make that too.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Well, I feel like you've convinced me to try to make this cinnamon roll focaccia. So maybe I'll add that to the list. But I'm definitely going to make our new recipe for snacking pizzas because they are a thing that my kids really love. It's basically like a personal pan pizza. They bake on a sheet pan so you don't need to bust out your baking steel or stone.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
And they're just like these cute little – pizzas that you can have as an after-school snack or just like a very simple dinner. And what I like about it is our house is a house divided when it comes to pizza toppings, by which I mean my children want cheese pizza, maybe pepperoni, but nothing else. So everyone can kind of customize their own little pizza.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
And that plus like a big salad is just a nice little dinner. So many good things to bake, so little time. But that does it for us today. Thank you for tuning in and joining us here on Things Bakers Know.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
And leave us a review while you're there or share this episode with a friend.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Things Bakers Know is hosted and executive produced by me, Jessica Batalana.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Rossi Anastapulo is our senior producer. Chad Chennai is our producer and engineer. Original music by Megan and Marcus Begala. You'll find some of our favorite birthday cake recipes, as well as other recipes for what we're baking this week in the show notes.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
This episode featured Cheryl Day, who ran the legendary Back in the Day Bakery for years in Savannah, Georgia, and Bronwyn Wyatt, the baker behind Bayou St. Cakes in New Orleans. Things Bakers Know is a King Arthur Baking Company podcast.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
In 15th century Germany, if you had any extra money at all, you might have actually purchased a birthday cake. That's sort of where, you know, lore says that birthday cakes got their origins. They weren't like the cakes that we think of today. They were single layer cakes, likely quite dense, likely lightly sweetened because sugar was expensive. You know, there was no commercial leavener.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
So you were at the whims of, you know, natural leavening or perhaps unleavened. And also, sadly, no frosting. These sound gross. It's a birthday cake, I think, in name alone. It's not really one that resembles what we have for birthdays today. I think that tradition really started during the Industrial Revolution because sugar became cheaper.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
That would be so sad. I'd head over to your house immediately to make you one. I feel like the world is divided into two kinds of people, pie people and cake people. And I think, you know, which camp you fall in says a lot about you. I'm not gonna tell you what I think it says about you, but I think it says a lot about you. I am definitely a cake person.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Industrial milling made white flour available to the masses. I'm sure the 15th century cakes were made with some stone ground, real nutty flours.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Exactly. And then commercial leavenings became introduced. Of course, let's not forget about the reliability of ovens, you know, that you weren't baking in a wood-fired oven anymore, which made it much more possible to have, you know, a cake that turned out well every time. And then by the time we get to the 1930s, box cake mixes were invented. And then after World War II, of course...
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
They started to be aggressively marketed as a convenience product to housewives. And people definitely took the bait on that because now they're a party staple. And you see everything from like the sprinkle laden funfetti cakes to themed sheet cakes, you know, from Fudgy the Whale to those beautiful buttercream dream cakes.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
But like I said earlier, I just feel like it's not a birthday unless there's cake.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Yeah, I call foul.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
We could all use a birthday moment in a regular day.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
I think a sheet cake is such a great choice for a birthday cake. I think they are easier to make and frost. No, I know they're easier to make and frost. It's not that I think because, you know, you're not trying to stack layers. You have this like nice canvas sort of to work with. They feed a crowd. Sheet cakes were once the domain of grocery store cakes. bakeries, they weren't fancy, right?
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Like people would have a wedding cake and in the back they have the sheet cake to cut up. Like it wasn't the showpiece cake, but that has totally changed. And now lots of bakeries make these really beautiful, lavishly decorated sheet cakes, you know, with squiggles, with fresh flowers, with fruit.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
So I don't think, you know, there was a time that maybe a sheet cake was sort of looked down upon as less than a layer cake. But I think
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
sheet cakes have come into their own and I'm happy also because I think the ratio of cake to frosting in a sheet cake to me is like just right about that see it gets a little problematic for me but I do love a sheet cake but am I hearing you correctly for you a birthday cake is a sheet cake I mean I like a sheet cake what is a birthday cake and these are existential questions well for you for you Jessica well if you you want to know what my favorite birthday cake is yeah
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Well, it's not a sheet cake. The cake that I request for my birthday is a coconut cake, a yellow cake.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
I love cake for all occasions, but certainly for birthdays. Like a birthday to me is not a birthday unless you've got...
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
I mean, it's a shame you weren't born in 15th century Germany, you know? You could have the austere cake.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Like to me, what you're describing sounds delicious. It also does not sound like a birthday cake. But then I think like maybe this is the whole point that a birthday cake should be the choice of the person whose birthday it is.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
No, I think that's true. Like you should get to choose. I get to pick my birthday cake, coconut. You pick your death cake. And, you know, and that's part of like the joy of it is that you can put in this request and have the request met. And maybe you can do that on other days if you have kinder people in your life. But I feel like you get a guarantee to get your wish on your birthday, right?
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
cake birthday pie is kind of sad yeah yeah cake is what makes the party a party i think and i was fortunate that when i was growing up my mother made scratch cakes for all of our birthdays you know she didn't do elaborate decorations anything like that but she made a solid scratch cake for each of her three children on their birthdays did anyone make her a cake who can recall i'm sorry mom
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Oh, no.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
I am not into it. I mean, I appreciate the sentiment, but I think and maybe this is because I'm a person that, you know, makes food for my household, you know, day in, day out. I feel like part of the magic for me of a birthday cake is that it's made for you by somebody who loves you or barring that it's ordered for you by somebody who loves you.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
And I actually like I have such like fondness sort of it makes my heart feel squishy to like imagine a very humble sort of poorly executed, slightly wonky, poorly frosted, home-baked birthday cake.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
I think I would. I would. Yeah, I think I would.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
See, it worked out for you from your first boyfriend to your husband. You know, the through line has been you got a birthday cake.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
I did. Yeah. One thing that we haven't fully acknowledged is that making a birthday cake for somebody else can feel like a high pressure situation. And so I wanted to talk to some people who have made a career out of making birthday cakes. So we have Cheryl Day, who ran the legendary Back in the Day Bakery for years in Savannah, Georgia, and Bronwyn Wyatt, the baker behind Bayou St.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Cakes in New Orleans, joining us on the show. And I think together, I don't know, we get into it, but they have baked like, Thousands and thousands and thousands of cakes. So if anybody knows what to do and what not to do, it's the two of them.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Today I am joined by Cheryl Day, who ran the legendary Back in the Day Bakery for 22 years in Savannah, Georgia. She's also a best-selling cookbook author, a frequent guest on television and on podcasts. Oh, excited to be here. And she is joined by our friend Bronwyn Wyatt, the baker behind Bayou Saint Cakes in New Orleans, which she shuttered last year in favor of a new career in food writing.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
She writes an amazing newsletter called Bayou Saint Newsletter. And I consider Bronwyn to be a baking trend soothsayer. So I'm really excited to have you here to sort of shed some light on what you see, you know, ahead in the world of cakes. Thank you so much for having us. So how many cakes do you guys, conservatively, how many cakes do you think you've made in your careers? Oh, my gosh.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Southern bakers are known for their cakes, right?
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
With the exception of going to other kids' birthday parties, all of the cakes that we ate as kids were scratch cakes. And then, you know, we'd go to other kids' parties and they would have store-bought cakes or box cakes.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
I'm actually curious to know why you think that is, because you often hear about church cakes or Southern cakes as being sort of the archetype of a beautiful, fluffy layer cake.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Yeah. Okay, well, imagine you have like, say you're a beginner baker, say you're a person that's always baked box cakes. And you're like, I want to try to make a cake from scratch. Like, where would you suggest people start? Because I do think there is the problem of people like wanting to run before they can walk, right?
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Like they sure, you know, they see something on Instagram, they're like, I'll make that thing.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
And when you say ingredients are mised out properly, you mean like you have them like measured or weighed and like ready to use? Exactly. Yeah.
Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
All About Birthday Cake, featuring Cheryl Day and Bronwen Wyatt
Yeah. Yes, absolutely. I think that's probably sound advice. Yeah.