Kelly Slater

And a lot of them disappeared to Central America and Bali and far off places, you know, South Africa or whatever to go surf and not go to war.

So they almost became like hated by their country because they didn't want to fight, you know.

But so there's an interesting culture that's always been a part of surfing.

But I think ultimately, I guess what I'm getting at is that, you know, surfing really provides feeling and you get a good feedback from that, whether it's a positive or negative.

You know, sometimes you're doing it right.

Sometimes you're doing it wrong.

And you kind of know real, you don't question it.

You're like, ah, I got to fix something.

I'm out of line here.

And you know, if it's not going your way, but it's a real connection to the outside elements in nature.

Well, it depends.

There's a lot of different, you know, there's a lot of different variables in there.

I mean, if you're riding a wave that big, it's generally when you're getting towed in on a jet ski.

And yeah, you'd probably on a board that's only six feet long.

It's really heavy.

If you're paddling, if you're trying to paddle like the biggest waves in the world, which...

you know, the biggest waves ever paddle onto maybe are a little smaller than the ones you can tow onto.

You know, you could probably tow onto a hundred foot wave if you can find one, but you can't really paddle onto a hundred foot wave.

Just the logistics of the speed of the wave, how long it takes to get down, all that kind of stuff.

And a big board creates a lot more friction on the water and, you know, you can't maneuver or go as fast with a big board.