Saranya Wyles, M.D., Ph.D.

So which peptides are currently modulating that versus AHA, BHA?

So these are alpha hydroxy acids.

So these are more exfoliating categories.

So looking at

signaling from peptides, you really want to understand where are these signals going to and who are they talking to?

So let's talk about an example of a peptide that has entered and has been in the skin space for a long time, copper tripeptide.

So copper tripeptide is GHK copper, and this can support collagen formulation or collagen formation by talking to the fibroblast receptors.

It has antioxidant ability.

It has wound healing support.

And so these are really key in kind of supporting the skin barrier, but it really comes down to how these carrier peptides are manufactured and how stable are they and how well are they penetrating the skin barrier.

So we know a lot about

key ingredients that could be helpful.

But where we are still exploring the science is how well they penetrate the skin barrier.

And there's a lot of different types of peptides too.

So there's carrier peptides, there's signal peptides, enzyme inhibitor peptides.

So you're going to see a lot of different words and ingredients.

And know that each one contributes to like talking to different cell types and kind of creating what we call the extracellular matrix.

At the end of the day, your skin scaffold really matters.

And that dermal layer where you're having collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, that scaffold is what kind of keeps your skin taut and healthy.

well-balanced.